Fue Line From Damper to Rail

aj951 · 12-02-2007, 06:08 AM

I am getting ready to change the short fuel line from the damper to the rail (see picture). Mine is showing some cracks but is not yet leaking. I already have the replacement line and I wanted to check with you guys for caveats or tips before I proceed. Do I need to depressurize the fuel system? I also understand from reading other posts that the fuel rail is fragile. What is the best way to to change this line without causing damage to the fuel rail? Do I need to put any type of sealant on the threads? I know this is a simple job but I hate it when I screw-up something just because I didn't ask.

bearone2 · 12-02-2007, 07:24 AM

nope, just put some rags down.

Techno Duck · Techno Duck's Garage

You can take out the DME relay and crank the car a few times to try and empty whatever fuel is sitll in the rail. Get a bunch of rags ready as when you remove the fuel rail it will probably still leak fuel everywhere. The most easy way to change that line is to remove the entire fuel rail from the car. The fittings for that flexible line can be very tight and make it very hard to get off with out the rail on a work bench.

Its a good time to change the o-rings on the injectors also. Even better would be sending them out to be cleaned and flow tested...but this will add about a week of downtime.

No sealant is necessary.

924Sman · 12-02-2007, 02:31 PM

That hose is under recall and if it has not been serviced Porsche will do it free. Call the dealer and have your VIN on hand and have them see if it has been already refitted with the better line. They have records of recalled updates.

You can un do the hex cap at the front of the rail and drain that way but be careful it has a ball and spring that will pop out when the cap is removed. But the nature of the hose is curved and fuel is almost impossible to get all out as it settles in the bend so it will leak no matter what...to a degree more/less.

Dal

bearone2 · 12-02-2007, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techno Duck

You can take out the DME relay and crank the car a few times to try and empty whatever fuel is sitll in the rail. Get a bunch of rags ready as when you remove the fuel rail it will probably still leak fuel everywhere. The most easy way to change that line is to remove the entire fuel rail from the car. The fittings for that flexible line can be very tight and make it very hard to get off with out the rail on a work bench.

Its a good time to change the o-rings on the injectors also. Even better would be sending them out to be cleaned and flow tested...but this will add about a week of downtime.

No sealant is necessary.

did it on the car without pulling the relay.

87951

aj951 · 12-02-2007, 05:16 PM

Techno Duck

The injectors were replaced about 6 years and 48K miles ago. If I were to send the injectors out for cleaning and flow testing, who does that kind of work?

924Sman

I already have the new hose plus I am very hesitant to take the car to the local dealer. Nothing against the local dealer, it's just that the dealership is new and they mainly work on newer cars. They don't even stock an oil filter for my car. I will however inquire about it just to see the response.

I appreciate all of the responses and help.

Thanks!

924Sman · 12-02-2007, 05:38 PM

No different than any other dealer, they focus on the late models and the techs are not trained for anything but late. Most early parts are ordered not kept in inventory. You suffer as we all do on that matter. Yep it will be interesting to see if the line was updated, most likely it has by a PO. If not get a refund and snag a free one, install it yourself. That was the main reason I replied to perhaps save you a bit of cash and concern getting the line on w/o incident.

Keep us updated...

Dal

aj951 · 12-08-2007, 02:58 PM

Well I replaced the fuel line today without taking the fuel rail off. I stuffed the rags underneath the rail and damper to catch the fuel. The connection to the damper was really tight and hard to get at. I must have spent close to an hour trying to get it off using two crows feet, one to hold the damper and one to turn the nut on the fuel line. I could only turn it a little at a time and it was very tight. Then, all of sudden I realized that I was turning the nut the wrong way and I was tightening more.

WHAT AN IDIOT!

Once I realized my stupidity, of coarse the nut came right off. What should have taken only 30 min. ended up taking about an 1 1/2 hours. Anyway, all seems to be fine now. I am going to keep my eye on that connection for leaks because I'm not sure I didn't damage the threads on the fuel damper. I cranked it on it pretty hard. Dang I feel stupid! Thanks for the help!

Zero10 · 12-09-2007, 01:35 AM

Haha, I only laugh because we've all been there. I was the victim of this just a couple weeks ago trying to take the heat shield off over the intermediate shaft to install a new steering rack. Fought with it for 25 minutes 1/16th of a turn at a time loosening the bolt, then I switched positions and proceeded to spend 25 bloody bruised minutes re-tightening the bolt instead of taking it out..... Upside-down bolts/threads are always the hardest.

gtroth · 12-11-2007, 09:43 AM

--a little late for advice, but you should disconnect the battery and make sure it can't accidentally reconnect when playing with fuel. And put the fire extinguisher within reach.