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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,179
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Front sway bar link compatibility
I have the older style, two bolt clamp links on my front sway bar. My question is, will a later, say 951 front swaybar end fit into the early style two bolt bracket if I take off the late style 1 bolt drop link? Any done this? I see nothing really wrong with the early design, and would rather not have to drill a new hole for the late style drop link.
Any if anyone has a line on a cheap set of front and rear 951 sways lemme know.
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That Guy
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Its been so long ago since i did this, but i am pretty sure you can fit up to the 25.5mm and 26.8mm front sway bar with your stock end links. The 30mm M030 968 bar used a larger end link bushing. You can still use your stock end links with a 30mm bar, you just need to bore out the bushing (not a big deal).
Im not 100% sure if the 26.8mm front bar used the same diameter endlink bushing. But either way, they can be bored out to fit larger sway bars.
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Jon 1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L 2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3 Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1 |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,179
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That is no big deal- I just wanted to make sure the bars were not shaped differently to the point that they would not line up with there the older end links. Thanks
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 259
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The 26.8 does use the larger bushing, but as Jon said, the smaller bushings can easily be bored out to fit. I used a simple drill press for my 26.8.
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Dan Former owner of: '88 924LE (Luddite Edition) manual steering, manual sunroof, manual windows, AC delete, cruise delete, M030 Konis, 25.5 torsions, 931 valance and header panels, 6X16 Fuchs, lowered, etc, etc. |
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Politically Incorrect
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hoover, Alabama
Posts: 1,494
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Follow the link below my sig. I swapped out a stock 20mm bar for a 26.8mm bar. The ends plug into the stock 924S holes, however, you will need to get the bigger center bushing clips and bushings. Oh, and last week, I swapped out the rear 16mm bar installed in the thread below for a brand new 5-Way adjustable 19mm rear bar.
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Edek '87 924S '91 535i Last edited by onZedge; 10-29-2008 at 02:15 PM.. |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
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sway bar link..
Quote:
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All Spooled Up
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Between NE and Central PA
Posts: 2,516
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Come on - you should be able to figure THAT one out! We like to help each other out here, but no one wants to have to deal with someone that it is going to be a constant pain in the ass, with simple stuff like this. I suggest that you do a lot of reading on this and other sites such as clark's & RL, and take it all in, or at least remember where to go back to when times come that such assistance is needed.
Other than that, welcome to pelican parts. One thing I want to mention, in the way of sways, is that I once upgraded to a 25.5mm front bar on my 80 924, but used the slightly worn bushings from a bar that was one size smaller (23 or 24mm, maybe?), and it worked out perfectly. Nice and tight, but not binding.
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>gray 89 951S - K27/8, MAF, 3" intake, 3" exhaust w/separate waste pipe, 55# inj, late cam; >red 87 924S - chip, K&N, punched-out cat&muffler >black 80 924 - (sold) >maroon 77 924 - auto (sold) Last edited by wild man; 12-16-2010 at 08:35 AM.. |
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Under the car
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ross, Ohio
Posts: 585
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I am not sure reading on here or rennlist is going to help him figure out how to replace the sway bar links on his windstar.
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Registered User
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I'm not even going to touch the windstar question....
I just swapped out my stock bars on my 85.5 NA for a set from a S2 and all we needed were larger bushings, it was very easy and bolted right on. The S2 bars are the 26.8 up front and 16mm in the rear. What an incredible difference especially with my new koni's. This should be an easy fix for you
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Paul - Norwell, MA 1985.5 944 Guards Red N/A Koni Sports, S2 sway bars |
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white 87 924S
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Good to know, I was going to drill a hole in the a-arm and modified it so a drop link could be used. The hole would need support (welded riser on top of the plate) and I would've welded the two a-arm plates together for strength. This saves hours of work.
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