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There was a company in the UK that took an S2 engine from 3.0 to 3.8 litres and turbo charged it. There was an article in 911porscheworld about it a couple of years ago i think.
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There is no such thing as a budget Porsche only a budget for a Porsche 1991 944 S2 (Daily drive- spend a fortune on it getting it sorted) 1998 BMW 328 E46 (Wife's car) 2003 Toyota Prado (Something to cart the kids around) 1996 Nissan Pulsar (Something for the au pair to drive) |
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Not sure about the 3.8L part but DIVER944 on the rennlist forums had his 3.2L build in a mag. Hes from the UK but I can't remember if it was 911&PW. His car is called Lil: '89 951S Baltic Blue 3.2 litre-
Jon Mitchell 3.2L engine, SPS ballrace turbo, Vitesse Maf & piggyback, TiAL 46mm WG, Greddy EBC here's a 3.0L turbo registry they started on Rennlist: 3 Liter Turbo Registry - Rennlist Discussion Forums
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https://www.instagram.com/kiwi944s3/ '86 944S3 conversion - '94 968 3.0 engine - 6 spd/LSD - 17x8,17x9 Oz Racing Crono wheels |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: neither here nor there
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Just keep in mind that its all about how much air you *flow* not how high your boost is...
Think about it. Blow hard through a straw. Blow hard through a drain pipe. In which one can you move more air? In which one did you have higher "boost". In which one can you move more air and therefore add more fuel and therefore have more power? Did anyone read "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell? |
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On Boost
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUS
Posts: 398
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Quote:
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86 952 GTX3076R, M-Tune, eBoost 2, CEP/JME cam, CEP head. |
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All Spooled Up
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Between NE and Central PA
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If you are are looking for the "cost-free" ticket to 300hp at the crank, just remove the banjo fitting from the charge pipe and stick a short, tightly fitting, piece of vacuum hose into it, being careful not to block the holes near the bolt head (you may want to glue it in). If the ID of the hose is small enough (<2mm), you will see the boost gauge go up to the 2bar mark, and that should net you damn near 300hp.
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>gray 89 951S - K27/8, MAF, 3" intake, 3" exhaust w/separate waste pipe, 55# inj, late cam; >red 87 924S - chip, K&N, punched-out cat&muffler >black 80 924 - (sold) >maroon 77 924 - auto (sold) |
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Define "cost-free". Does it happen before or after the ka-BLAM part?
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Avatar's are to SMALL.
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LOL. That was good. Ha.
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1986 951 - Wrecked. Being used for engine swap and parts. 1987 944 - SCCA specification track/ street car. Awaiting 951 engine and parts. |
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On Boost
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Location: Melbourne, AUS
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hahaha oh yeah noworries il give that ago tomorrow morning
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86 952 GTX3076R, M-Tune, eBoost 2, CEP/JME cam, CEP head. |
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All Spooled Up
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Between NE and Central PA
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No ka-blam at 15psi, if using good 92 (or higher) octane fuel.
By cost-free, I mean that I think most people would have a short (1/4-1/2") piece of vac hose lying around somewhere. If not, could probably "steal" such a short piece off of the car, somewhere. If not-want-go-cost-free, you could tap out the banjo bolt and screw in a (2mm ID) carb jet into it, which might cost you a few dollars, or rupels, depending on where you live. You could go higher psi by using smaller jet sizes. But to protect my "reputation" from those who blow up thier engines by doing so, I DO NOT RECOMMEND GOING HIGHER THAN 15 PSI ON STOCK CHIPS. Additionally, I must add that it would probably be a good idea to monitor A/F ratios, and/or install a knock counter. When I was running with this setup, I was NOT monitoring A/F ratios, and had no issues, other than getting used to having more power - but that thrill kinda fades after a while. And when the pesky little "need-for-speed" issue is back in your face again, taunting you to go over 15psi, please do it "properly". Thank you & good nite. And, what the heck, I might as well add, double H's, while I'm at it. L8r
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>gray 89 951S - K27/8, MAF, 3" intake, 3" exhaust w/separate waste pipe, 55# inj, late cam; >red 87 924S - chip, K&N, punched-out cat&muffler >black 80 924 - (sold) >maroon 77 924 - auto (sold) |
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