Argggg all I did was replace the clutch...

[rrwebster]

So in doing so I messed up the two sensors that mount on the clutch housing... Got the two new ones today... slide them in, tightened them up, connected them and turned the key.

noted the tach... no action so I turned the key off, switched the two and tried again.

Still no action on the tach, turned the key off... the starter kept going... removed the key... the starter kept cranking.... it wouldn't stop... I unplugged the sensors... still wouldn't stop.

finally stopped it by disconnecting the positive on the battery.

and my wipers won't stop... and I still don't hear the fuel pump...

geeze all I did was replace the clutch...

did it sit too long? (5 weeks)


HELP!!!! anyone had this happen?

I plan tomorrow to back trace which sensor plug is which to the DME and mark them (the bracket for the plugs is no where to be found and the plugs aren't marked)... but what is causing these other things? The mounting bracket for the sensors didn't get moved.

total stumped

[kfray]

Bad ignition switch ?

[zedsn]

Your sensors did nothing to affect the starter. Did you gap your sensors correctly? If not you need to read on how to do that and hopefully you didn't wipe out the little sensor nubbs on the flywheel. I had the same problem with a starter awhile back. I did a clutch slave cylinder job and put the starter back in and turned the car over and the starter just kept cranking. Your problem here is the selonoid. The grease may have dried up and not let the starter disengauge. Your wiper problem may be a stuck relay or the plastic part that holds it all together may be cracked or broken. My 83 had the plastic wiper switch housing cracked and fed juice to the wipers all the time. Hope this helps.

[rrwebster]

that makes perfect sense, because I had to pull the starter again to bleed my clutch... which reminds me... I bled the clutch three days ago because the pedal was sticking to the floor... I have a power bleeder so I bled the heck out if it... today when I went to start it...three days later, the pedal is sticking to the floor again...

so, pull the starter and lube it up?

need to bleed the clutch again too and check the fittings.

[968 GUY]

Also check all your wiring from batt. to starter. You could have accidentally gotten 2 wires to touch when you reinstalled it, the wiring insulation could have deteriorated, exposing bare wires. There have been experiences of starters engaging and the cars moving on their own. I would check the bushing that the starter nub goes into and replace it if you have time while starter is out. (mine needs replacing, have new bushing, just need to install)
Also on the clutch, I probably will get some flack from a certain know-it-all, but when I bled the clutch, I tried the push down once and hold while the bleeder is opened, it did not work well. After a few tries and the pedal staying on floor, I had my daughter pump and pull the pedal back several times before opening the bleeder screw. The pedal stayed up after only a couple of times of this.

[zedsn]

Is your brake/clutch fluid level down? If so you still have a leak and letting air get into the system or your slave and or clutch master is shot. You can take your selonoid off and look to see if anything is amiss. I just replaced my selonoid.

[rrwebster]

when I've done it using the power bleeder, I bled it with the pedal down... then pumped it up, pedal up and then bled it again.

[968 GUY]

Never tried the motive bleeder, so I don't know the procedure for that. Just telling you what worked for me.

[rrwebster]

not certain about the fluid level... will check it out in the morning... did not notice any on the floor though.

[rrwebster]

could having the starter too tight cause it to not disengage?

[Dean924s]

Originally Posted by rrwebster

could having the starter too tight cause it to not disengage?

I don't think that is possible.

I would take a good look at the big power cable that runs down the firewall by the bell housing. I have seen several cars burn to the ground due to pinching them between the bell housing and the motor. Or they get damaged during the clutch job and short out shortly after the job is complete. These are non fused power cables to the starter that have the capacity to transmit lots of amps. In short be careful and inspect them carefully.

If you end up needing a starter I have a brand new rebuild I don't need on the shelf that I don't need. (long story)

[bell]

proper procedure for the motive bleeder is to have the clutch pedal all the way up (not depressed) and simply bleed with pressure between 10-15lbs......
sometimes the bleed screw can become clogged from the rubber clutch line deteriorating internally.....but if you have fluid coming out it's not clogged.....
the slave cylinder can be rebuilt, did mine in about 10 minutes for less than $40....
also check any ground straps which you may have disconnected (not sure if there are any at the bellhousing).

[rrwebster]

Okay...

Lubed up the starter.... traced out the sensor plugs... re-bled the clutch slave.

Finally... the car started.

wow... I used to have a bunch of noises while driving and shifting must have all been from the original clutch that I replaced (pretty sure it was the original, all rubber in the middle and had those three clogs in the middle) I've 73000 miles on it. It's smooth and quiet now.


But all is not perfect...

"A" The clutch pedal still doesn't come back up all the way everytime (Sometimes it does) I rebuilt the master cylinder a 1000 miles ago but not the slave).

"B" My windows stopped working???? (thinking this is a ground issue since the wipers are acting goofy too and I did have to remove the clutch housing ground and put it back, plus the first time I got them working I did it by adding an extra ground to the window relay.)

"C" Back a couple of months ago when I first bought this car. the PO said that it needed a new MAFS. Not knowing anything about a porsche back then I bought one off ebay for a 1985. got it, installed it and it ran really well... for the first day. the second day it wouldn't start at all. got looking at the numbers and realized It was the wrong MAFS. so I put the old one back on. It started right up and ran pretty well up until the day the clutch went. it was acting like it did when I bought it... its still acting that way now.

it starts hard... it has a flat spot when you jump on the throttle... and really doesn't idle down well. As long as you are over 3000 rpm it seems to be pretty good but anything less isn't pretty.

Now I've never replaced that original MAFS... does this sound like its finally gone bad now?

Your thoughts on "A" and "C"

Thanks in advance for your input!

btw... I was totally wrong about the fuel pump running until it's up to pressure... this is true on my GM TPI systems... but not on the Porsche. (What I was remembering is that when I turn it off it runs for a little bit).

Robert

[968 GUY]

Clutch hose replaced when you did the clutch? They can go bad suddenly.

[nynor]

c. perhaps you still have a bad AFM (i think this is what you mean). late model AFM's have a different voltage requirement, so the other one you bought may not be the right one.

the rest of your c. troubles sound like bad electrical connections and vacuum leaks. check your J boot and all the hoses and their connections.

[rrwebster]

968 guy... the clutch hose? mine is a steel pipe that comes down from the master cylinder. I did move it quite a bit during the clutch replacement, but you would think it if had a leak it would be dripping?

The clutch seems to be working just fine the pedal just does come all the way back up. I'm thinking I'll just leave it for a week or two and see if it works itself out.

today I'm going to remove and clean the bell housing ground and try to get at those grounds around the fuse panel. The grounds on these cars seem to be very important to many functions... heck it may be why the AFM is acting up for that matter.

[968 GUY]

The clutch hose is part hard pipe and part rubber hose. Over the yrs, they deteriorate and can flex and balloon, good idea to change this out when doing master and slave cyl.

[spec guy]

I have the same problem with the clutch peddle not coming up. I have bled it many times and still it's the same. It works but does not always return. I would sure like any hints that anyone might have on this as it keeps the car off the race tracks.

[rrwebster]

I've solved "C"

"C" Back a couple of months ago when I first bought this car. the PO said that it needed a new MAFS. Not knowing anything about a Porsche back then I bought one off ebay for a 1985. got it, installed it and it ran really well... for the first day. the second day it wouldn't start at all. got looking at the numbers and realized It was the wrong MAFS. so I put the old one back on. It started right up and ran pretty well up until the day the clutch went. it was acting like it did when I bought it... its still acting that way now.

it starts hard... it has a flat spot when you jump on the throttle... and really doesn't idle down well. As long as you are over 3000 rpm it seems to be pretty good but anything less isn't pretty.

Now I've never replaced that original MAFS... does this sound like its finally gone bad now?



it is the coil... arcing between the center and the + side... but only occasionally.

I've wrapped the center with electrical tape until the new one arrives so its running okay now.