tricked out cabs and s2 goodness

[vdubr928]

As d day approaches for the new s2 cab im wondering about performance and handling. I've never even driven ones so I don't know how bad the body flex is or what can be done. Also when I search the forum or web for 3.0 performance and the like I find no goodies. Sure, Lindsey makes the valve lifter kit but I don't see anything else except for chips. Wondering if there are some tricked out cabbers and s2 s who's owners will chime in on what's been done.0

[vdubr928]

In addition. Im buying a clutch and thinking about a stage two setup. They are about the same price as stock and I do plan some upgrades. Thoughts?

[flash968]

there are braces available that all but eliminate body flex - that's a no brainer

as for performance stuff, there isn't a lot out there yet that's truly "plug and play", and what there is out there that is plug and play, doesn't add a lot

[Rasta Monsta]

Rule of thumb for modding these cars: suspension first. Pleasure/dollar ratio far more satisfying than trying to eke more power out of a setup that is fairly maxed out already by the factory.

[vdubr928]

That's where I was thinking about going first. My 928 has the s4 coilivers shock are pretty good but I've never put a full blown suspension kit on a car. I wont be tracking it but I live in the mountains. What should I use.

I figured somebody makes the braces that you can buy for any vert but whom?

[Dawgz83948]

The cowl shake is noticable at low speeds on bumpy roads. It's still 100% better than my 2000 Mustang GT Vert was. I've done the suspension and added wider tires and the car handles noticeably better. I've also pulled out the interior and removed a lot of weight in the form of throwing away all the sound deadning. I also removed the 30# weight out in the trunk and moved the battery back there. I also removed the pop-ups and put in fiberglass buckets (not my fav look but helped me achieve 50/50 weight distribution again). Also I removed the power motors and transmissions for the top. When I bought the car it had the dreaded snapped main bow.

As far as engine performance, the most you could do on the cheap is a chip and replace the paper element air filter with a k&n (in the airbox not the retarded cone filters). If you have $$$$ burning a hole in your pocket you could rebuild the motor and do a 3.0l turbo which under mild boost should make well over 300hp.

[vdubr928]

Originally Posted by Dawgz83948

The cowl shake is noticable at low speeds on bumpy roads. It's still 100% better than my 2000 Mustang GT Vert was. I've done the suspension and added wider tires and the car handles noticeably better. I've also pulled out the interior and removed a lot of weight in the form of throwing away all the sound deadning. I also removed the 30# weight out in the trunk and moved the battery back there. I also removed the pop-ups and put in fiberglass buckets (not my fav look but helped me achieve 50/50 weight distribution again). Also I removed the power motors and transmissions for the top. When I bought the car it had the dreaded snapped main bow.

As far as engine performance, the most you could do on the cheap is a chip and replace the paper element air filter with a k&n (in the airbox not the retarded cone filters). If you have $$$$ burning a hole in your pocket you could rebuild the motor and do a 3.0l turbo which under mild boost should make well over 300hp.

Don't want to go this far. I am thinking a chip and maybe higher flow cat/muffler. Most important will be suspension. I imagine the factory had learned alot about the car by 1990. Wnhat needs to be changed and with what parts?

Glad to hear its not as bad as a gt. I couodnt stand mine. Ran hard in a straight line as long as there were no fluctuations in the surface (like an errant cigarette butt lol)

[Dawgz83948]

Originally Posted by vdubr928

Don't want to go this far. I am thinking a chip and maybe higher flow cat/muffler. Most important will be suspension. I imagine the factory had learned alot about the car by 1990. Wnhat needs to be changed and with what parts?

Glad to hear its not as bad as a gt. I couodnt stand mine. Ran hard in a straight line as long as there were no fluctuations in the surface (like an errant cigarette butt lol)

I installed the cut n gut Koni adjustables w/ 500# coilover springs in front and koni adjustable coilovers in rear with 200# springs. Nice and firm and very flat in turns. I also replaced the rear swaybar with the one out of a Turbo (which is slighly larger than the S2) S2 front sway is slightly larger than the turbo. You may like the M030 sways, but I didn't, they kept the car a little too flat for my driving preference. A little body roll is good for weight transfer and the car warns you a bit before loosing adhesion, whereas with the M030 swaybars it would snap oversteer in hard turns.

[Rasta Monsta]

Originally Posted by Dawgz83948

500# coilover springs in front and koni adjustable coilovers in rear

Stiffer than my Cup car!

[Dawgz83948]

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

Stiffer than my Cup car!

Your cup car is probably lighter too. He may want to go 400#F and 150#R, I'm just sayin what I have in mine. My cab now weighs 2860lbs which is better than the 2980 it weighed when I bought it (the 2860 is with a LT4 shoved under the hood too)

[Rasta Monsta]

Did you revalve your Konis? I've been told they can't handle 500#.

[Dawgz83948]

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

Did you revalve your Konis? I've been told they can't handle 500#.

I purchased the setup from Ground Control on his recommendation, so I'm 100% sure 500# will work with those koni's.

[flash968]

correct - koni yellows cannot handle 500#. revalving would be required. before i finally gave up on the yellow sports, i tried springs ranging from 250 to 500 up front and found the effective limit of the valving to be at about 350#

cowl shake is completely eliminated with the braces in place. not cheap, but it really stiffened up the car, to the point of being easily able to put 3 wheels in the air with 1 jack point

i'd love to see a cab at 2860. i'd sure like to get mine that low. my blue 968 cab, which is essentially the same car, even after removing over 200lbs still came in at over 3100 with a full tank (which is how you weigh it)

[ernie9944]

First start with the rigth wheels & tires such as (Cup I, don't go 18" on an S2) 7.5x17 frt/8.5X17 rear,shoded with a low profil HP tire 225-45 ZR 17 front /255-40 ZR 17 rear it will give you plenty of grip.You don't have to spend a fortune on tires but don't choose anything cheap neither (my choice are Falken 452) but it will be up to you & your wallet.If the rotors & calipers are good leave them as they are you got all the stopping power you need if they have to be replace go with the same OE.Brakes pads are very important so it will be up to you to decide which one suite your driving style better,S/S brakes lines is almost a must Brake Rotors, Brake Pads and Performance Brake Upgrades check these.If your not racing the car do not over do the suspension leave it as stock as possible Lol don't turn it into a ride that will crushe your bone.S2 are pretty darn good when it come to road holding stock including the cab.Agree that a brace will help settle thing on a CAB,but be carefull when you buy I got friends who has CAB & know excatly with one to install (if you need infos pm me same goes for springs rate struts & shocks I'm sure they'll be glad to help).GL

[vdubr928]

So is this elimination the torsion bars too or keep them? I would love alot more info on this. I don't want to throw money away but I want a cab that holds like hell. Keeping in mind my wife will be driving it id like to go with a mid level system.

[flash968]

i concur about 18" wheels. if i had to do it over again, i would have stayed with 17s, just to maximize ride comfort. while i don't have a problem now that i have gone with dual adjustable hydraulic (not gas) struts and shocks, 17s would have made it a lot easier, and definitely would help with any gas setup

definitely be careful about choosing braces

i would choose a strut tower brace with a small amount of flex in it, as the upper strut tower mounting hardware is very low grade and incapable of holding torque on stiffer braces, and ends up stripping the threads on them. it will still hold the struts in place without ripping the studs loose.

i would choose a lower suspension brace that does not require an alignment afterward. some of the braces out there require that you remove the caster blocks, which then forces a new alignment.

i would choose a hoop type "chassis brace" that does not require cutting, drilling or welding, and attaches in at least 4 and preferably 6 points

once you get all 3 in though, you will find that the car is incredibly solid. i know that is the case with the 30 plus cars i've seen my combination in

[vdubr928]

Can one of you guys pm me with some supplier and part number info? Love all the help.

[Dawgz83948]

Originally Posted by flash968

i'd love to see a cab at 2860. i'd sure like to get mine that low. my blue 968 cab, which is essentially the same car, even after removing over 200lbs still came in at over 3100 with a full tank (which is how you weigh it)

I had 1/2 tank of gas when weighed and a v8 under the hood.

[flash968]

wow - you've pulled out a lot of weight - the S2 cab starts out at 3064 (that's a full tank of gas, but otherwise empty)

i'm not sure where the rest of the weight comes from in the 968, as we start out at 3240. i'm going to have to look at that

[flash968]

ok. now i'm finding conflicting information. the S2 is actually showing heavier in one book i have than the 968 is, with the 968 coming in at 3020 and the S2 at 3064

i have weighed mine very recently, as a part of the corner balancing, and it is over 3100 (though about 40# is the supercharger), but even after having removed over 200# of stuff before doing that and then adding back in the braces and such