Will new hatch struts cause glass/frame problems

[gordonmacwillia]

I just replaced the struts on my '87 944S for the first time (16+ year owner). Zims Autotechnik supplied both for $46.50 delivered.

I am retired and drive this car once a week for shopping. In addition to disconnecting a battery switch, I leave the hatch up when the car is garaged. Doing so reduces the stress on the hatch, prolongs the life of the struts (since they are not under compression) and eliminates plastic odor buildup in the vehicle.

Including the 944S, I have owned 4 911s for a total of 66 vehicle years. I have replaced shocks on some of these vehicles and even doubled up on one whale tail shock set, but I will never again replace these shocks nor the 944S engine hood shocks as Porsche really dropped the ball on the shock designs. I also owned a Datsun 280Z for 20 years and never had to replace the hatch shocks. Shame on Porsche.

[honerboys]

the 83 came to me with worn out glass struts and a piece of pool cue to hold the hatch open when you needed it - i "couldn't" live with that so i put in two used struts that could hold the hatch up - within one week the glass separated so now i have to live with the separation until i can get time to fix it - go figure

[djnolan]

Use a nice carved walking stick to prop it up. It gives the care an eco look! A retired neighbor of mine once gave me a nice walking stick carved from a cactus plant. I now proudly display it in the back of my 944.

On the 85 I went so far as to replace the hatch with a used one and "locate" an original pair of hatch struts and use the aforementioned walking stick.

The 87 is separated partially with the original struts. I am thinking of removing the hatch, setting it up on edge and dribbling some superglue in, and clamping the frame to the glass. And getting another walking stick.

[Gawernator]

Looks like mine is partially seperated but filled in with RTV sealant, works

[Bukowski]

'87 944 na

bought pair of Bilstein (I think) Stabilus struts from Pelican for the rear hatch a few years ago after hatch kept dropping on my head when I was back there. Hatch was used but I do not think it was ever repaired (how would I know?).

replacement of those struts led a number of months later to the hatch popping open while driving at medium to low speed especially over bumps. high speed kept air pressure high enough to keep it shut on highway. heard squeaks. decided to investigate.

took the clasper things of the hatch pins off the car and soaked/sprayed/blasted with Teflon Silicone dry lube (that blue one in Lowe's) till clean. put a new hatch pin and flap latch housing in there (ask for details). sprayed the key mechansim also.

been a couple years now, no squeaking and hatch stays closed. occasionally spray that same lube in there.

NOTE WELL: latex tubes connect to ports on the plastic housing of those clasp things to the outside to drain water. if they are not connected, you might be wondering how water is getting inside the luggage compartment. mine seems ok now after connecting them up.

[Gawernator]

Okay there are water drains? I just now got the squeak so I'm installing new hatch pin seats. It's been raining and water just builds up a ton on the hatch spoiler, and if I open the hatch most of it goes right into the cargo area -_-

[Bukowski]

Originally Posted by Gawernator

Okay there are water drains? I just now got the squeak so I'm installing new hatch pin seats. It's been raining and water just builds up a ton on the hatch spoiler, and if I open the hatch most of it goes right into the cargo area -_-

its been a while, but this sounds like what I was observing. pretty sure water was grievous back there.

the drain pieces are - clumsy to describe off the top of my head - pull your carpet back, look for tubing laying around on the lower part of the body. Took me too long to notice this - I have no idea how they fell off, or if they were pulled off by a PO.

so the tubing connects to the housing of the hatch clasper mechanism. should be an obvious drainage shaped tube formed in the same plastic as the housing. I think you have to pull the carpet back.

oh, water can get in the cargo area by spilling over the side of the hatch though, sort of a flaw of the design I think, but that's not what I mean...

[Aussie944S]

Wow wanted to replace my struts cause they are weak, they hold the hatch up but wanted it to pop open with my trunk realese, but after reading this posts got me all confused as what's BS and what's not.

As for water sitting pooling on the wing. There are drain holes little rectangle ones moulded into the wing. I'll get a photo later unless someone else one up before me.

[Gawernator]

That's what I thought. So maybe mine aren't working? After a big rain the bottom of the spoiler is filled with water and raising the hatch causes the water to fall down the sides into the hatch. I thought this might just be a design flaw

[Aussie944S]

Originally Posted by Gawernator

That's what I thought. So maybe mine aren't working? After a big rain the bottom of the spoiler is filled with water and raising the hatch causes the water to fall down the sides into the hatch. I thought this might just be a design flaw

Some reason my tablet won't allow me to do a photo upload. But mine are clearly visible. They are like 2cm long rectangles. PM you email I'll drop it to ya if your keen.

[Bukowski]

off the top of my head:

* for the record, I have an '87 944 na

* yes I agree the rectangular holes in the spoiler on the hatch must be clear. one on either side (LR). had big trouble with this. using a thin line ("weedwacker" in my case) helped (2mm). had to pull in and out to clear the hold all the time (parked under trees). water etc. collected at an angle. annoying, but managable.

* if water in spoiler when lifting hatch: water runs back along the edge and randomly messily drips over the side of the hatch. when open, the edge is not aligned perfectly with the car body, so water can drip/spill inside. I think I opened the hatch slightly to let water drain mostly, then slowly raised it all the way.

* thinking more about it, I think the tubing that attaches to the hatch pin clasps runs down behind and under the carpet in the hatch, so you need to pry it way up like you are getting the spare tire.

HTH!

[djnolan]

Originally Posted by Gawernator

Looks like mine is partially seperated but filled in with RTV sealant, works

One of the reasons hatch separation is a problem is the squeaking sound it makes going over bumpy roads. Once the hatch separates form the frame it rubs and makes a squeaking noise.

Other causes of this noise can be a badly adjusted hatch. The hinges can be adjusted left/right/front/rear so the hatch sits more evenly against the body.

replacement of those struts led a number of months later to the hatch popping open while driving at medium to low speed especially over bumps.

The hatch may be misaligned, and the locks may also be misaligned. After adjusting the hatch hinges, adjust the locks so the hatch pin is dead center. Adjust the hatch pin length so the hatch latches snugly against the body. Also lube the locks with dry film lubricant and your hatch should stay closed.

[billy mild]

I had my rear hatch resealed professionally. The guy did a great job. He has done about 14 in the area over the years. So I got it all done and recently put the top trim piece back on. It doesn't fit 100% like it should. After I put that piece back on I think my hatch has some new rattles on it. I might take it off again because it is rather annoying. My hatch frame is a little bent. It shouldn't really matter , but after the hatch was resealed the trim piece didn't fit correctly.

I already have the new hatch pin seats which made a huge difference. I might try to adjust my pins again to see if that makes a difference. The hatch rattles drive me nuts. I also have a rattle in my passenger door.

[djnolan]

Originally Posted by Gawernator

That's what I thought. So maybe mine aren't working? After a big rain the bottom of the spoiler is filled with water and raising the hatch causes the water to fall down the sides into the hatch. I thought this might just be a design flaw

Gawernator,

If you raise the hatch slowly the water will dribble down the quarter panel...

There doesn't seem to be any way to keep the drains unclogged, though.

[Gawernator]

I'll try that. Took a good look at the drains and saw how they are really simple in design, from top to out the bottom. Now clueless as to how clogged the drains must be to hold some twenty gallons of water -_-

[944Larry]

put new ones on my 924 whan I had it and my 944 and have not had a problem. I'm careful to open the hatch and close it using both hands. May not make any difference but that is my procedure.

[Bukowski]

in case this helps - i think Gawernator (how do you pronounce this?) was asking about the tubes. here is where the latex tube exits the body in the rear (there's the driver-side rear bumper shock in view):



HTH

[TheSecondChris]

I've heard a lot about the delamination of the hatch but not sure I understand what it looks like or if what I see on my car is the same thing. I'm wondering if this is delamination or if the front metal trim piece is just too far forward? The trim on the driver's side is so close to the roof that it rubs a bit when I open the hatch. You can see that the rest of the top surface is good, though.

Can this metal piece be moved back into the correct position?

[GreenWater]

Yes, that is what it looks like when the hatch glass delaminates or comes apart from the frame. There is no simple way to move the metal trim back into place. It's really not a trim piece, but the frame for the glass.

There should not be a gap between the glass and the frame, like you can see in your picture. The little divots in the glass top should also be located under the frame. Water will easily get in that gap and into the hatch area. A simple quick fix is to fill that gap with clear or black silicone.

The only real way to fix your hatch would be to remove it from the car, remove the glass from the frame, bend the frame back to the correct shape, and then glue the glass back into the frame. I have not tried this yet, but from all I have read, it's a big job and VERY easy to mess up and break the hatch glass.

[TheSecondChris]

Thanks for the reply! I guess you're right, but I expected to see the glass in the wrong location - sagging downward and away from the front to create a gap. In this case the frame is in the wrong location as it's moved too far forward and this resulted in a gap. So, I was wondering if it is the same thing.

Instead of silicone I would use black electrician's putty since it's waterproof and malleable and easy to remove when needed.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Electrical-Insulation-Putty-pack/dp/B00O7S14U6