Weekly new Problem-slightly Weird clutch issue

[Goldengreg]

Well i have searched through most clutch threads but haven;t seen my symptoms yet. I am thinking it is something hydraulic and cylinder based but here goes:

Occasionally when driving (almost only happens on freeway), the clutch will stick right at the point of first pressure when engaging. I would usually tap it and it would be fine after that and act normal again. It is slowly getting worse and today i literally had to press a few times and finally jiggle the shifter to depress again. And then it magically worked fine again ofr the rest of the trip.
It has gotten to the point that i keep the clutch slightly depressed (but not engaged) beofre shifting to prevent this. \
I originally though it was a linkage issue since it seemed like the tap would jiggle a stuck something, but not sure anymore.
The one thing that is not like the normal master cylinder issue is the pedal has never fallen, it just gets stuck and is getting worse?
Any ideas from the masters out there? I think I am going to buy a beater Camry to drive every day to reduce my stress while i deal with my weekly new issues.

[mytrplseven]

You didn't mention if there was any noise associated with this problem. If so, I'd suspect the throwout bearing. In any case, if it's a rubber centered clutch, I'd pull the inspection plug and check inside for rubber pieces with your light and finger. If it's not that, then it might well be the clutch guide tube falling apart (aluminum) and bolted to the center back of the bell housing. Another possibility is the bearings for the Clutch fork shaft. If they've packed it in, they'll cause the fork to bind and won't work smoothly. I had an input shaft pilot bearing go out that caused problems because the input shaft was contaminated with pieces of it and it bound up the disc from sliding smoothly on the shaft. This is an expensive repair if you don't want to take this project on yourself. It'll be a real education if you decide to tackle it.

[Goldengreg]

Originally Posted by mytrplseven

You didn't mention if there was any noise associated with this problem. If so, I'd suspect the throwout bearing. In any case, if it's a rubber centered clutch, I'd pull the inspection plug and check inside for rubber pieces with your light and finger. If it's not that, then it might well be the clutch guide tube falling apart (aluminum) and bolted to the center back of the bell housing. Another possibility is the bearings for the Clutch fork shaft. If they've packed it in, they'll cause the fork to bind and won't work smoothly. I had an input shaft pilot bearing go out that caused problems because the input shaft was contaminated with pieces of it and it bound up the disc from sliding smoothly on the shaft. This is an expensive repair if you don't want to take this project on yourself. It'll be a real education if you decide to tackle it.

No there isn;t any noise at all. The clutch was also replaced and upgraded about 60-70k ago, so it shouldnt have the rubber there, but I need to check the records from the PO. The stipid part is I had my car jacked up last Saturday for an O2 sensor replacement and forgot to check the clutch (the plug was gone however). None of your thought sounds like an easy fix unfortunetely. So replacing the master and slave cylinder wouldn;t help anything either would it? That is the only quick and cheap solution. That Camry is looking better and better. Or maybe a 2011 Mustange V6 with 306 HP and 31 highway mpg... I've learned alot repairing this car but it never ends and my time does.

[mytrplseven]

Well.....problem with previous maintenance, you don't know if a qualified tech did it or how thorough the job was. 60 to 70k miles on a clutch? I'd definitely check the wear limits in the hole but it might not show if the throwout bearing is sliding smoothly on the spline; if the clutch fork shaft/bearings are bound up (the bearings should have been replaced with the last clutch job since you're already in there). There's some real good write-ups on clutch replacement and they deal with the clutch fork shaft and bearings.

[Goldengreg]

After getting in the footwell I think I found the problem. The master cylinder bellow is broken and there is fluid leaking out. This is great news to me as this is somehthig I can fix quickly and cheaply, and will replace the slave as well while doing it.
I actually got my exhaust leak and most of my noise issue fixed yesterday too, so I guess I will keep her after all, lol. For now at least until she curses me again....

[Icey1174]

They make a REAL nice 1/4" extension that is made out of a spring that makes it REAL easy to get to those nuts on the firewall near the brake booster. It's MUCH easier than the 1/4" swivel just replaced my master and now the slave is bad too. The slave should be here Wed. It's pretty easy to bleed too.

[Goldengreg]

Originally Posted by Icey1174

They make a REAL nice 1/4" extension that is made out of a spring that makes it REAL easy to get to those nuts on the firewall near the brake booster. It's MUCH easier than the 1/4" swivel just replaced my master and now the slave is bad too. The slave should be here Wed. It's pretty easy to bleed too.

Icey, do you have a link to that?
Did you bleed through the slave or do the Clark's procedure and use a power bleeder on the reservoir? I also see a conflict in instructions since all the bleeding for slave says to lift the rear of the car, whereas the intstructions for master say to raise the front. Can you get to the slave with only raising the back?
This is why I figured to just do the slave as well since bleeding sucks.
Thanks,
Greg

[VaSteve]

Let me know if that fixes the issue. Mine seems to be having the same issue. I have a slave cyl, but it s a pain so I have been dragging my feet about it.

[Icey1174]

You can use a power bleeder but you still have to bleed through the slave as far as I know. It was pretty easy bleeding through the slave. I did use Clark's guide for pretty much the entire procedure except for raising the car from the rear to bleed.

I raised the front to bleed. I just made sure my reservoir was completely full. I did not remove my starter to bleed the slave either. The slave looks like a much easier replacement than the master. Working in the wheel well and around the brake booster is tight.

Look for that extension tool with the spring. You can bend it 90 degrees. I got the two nuts off the fire wall with patiences. It took a fair amount of time for two nuts. I could not get them back on with the swivel. My swivel was new and moved around too easy. I had the two nut on as fast as I could put a lug nut on and tighten it.

[Icey1174]

@ VaStece - I think the slave is easier to change than the master. IMO

@ Gold - Buy a new hose from the reservoir to the master and two new clamps. If you have the original crimp clamps you may damage the hose. If you do have the crimp clamps, take you time opening them up or cutting them off or you will break the plastic nipple on the reservoir and you will have to replace that too! I opened mine up with a small screw driver tip and was able to pull the end off the reservoir nipple.

[Goldengreg]

@Icey
Ok, just ordered a new hose from paragon and will order rest from here.
Is this what you are reffering to for the extension?: Amazon.com: Neiko Pro-Grade 2-Piece Steel Spring Flex Extension Bar Set - 1/4" & 3/8": Home Improvement
I'll have to find some clamps locally. I appreciate all the tips, as I am a tall guy so this will be interesting.

@VA I will let you know if this fixes the sticky clutch. I will not be doing this until 3 weeks tho since I will need to do it at my friends house. The city slickers here might not appreciate jack and a puddle of brake fluid in the shared garage

[Icey1174]

YUP! That's what will make your life SOOOOO easy with the two nuts on the firewall.

When you guys talk about a "sticky clutch" do you mean that it does not return properly and that you actually lift it with your foot? If so then you need to add more brake fluid to the reservoir. Your fluid is running dry in the master for the clutch. The hose to the clutch master is on the higher point of the reservoir. If you get air in there the clutch pedal will not return properly. Add fluid, pump the clutch several times, drive it, it will spring back. But if you have a leaking master or slave it will get "sticky" again to the point where you will not be able to shift into gear while moving. Keep adding fluid, keep pumping. It will get you by for now, but you will have to replace the master soon. And your floor mat will be a mess!

[Goldengreg]

Originally Posted by Icey1174

YUP! That's what will make your life SOOOOO easy with the two nuts on the firewall.

When you guys talk about a "sticky clutch" do you mean that it does not return properly and that you actually lift it with your foot? If so then you need to add more brake fluid to the reservoir. Your fluid is running dry in the master for the clutch. The hose to the clutch master is on the higher point of the reservoir. If you get air in there the clutch pedal will not return properly. Add fluid, pump the clutch several times, drive it, it will spring back. But if you have a leaking master or slave it will get "sticky" again to the point where you will not be able to shift into gear while moving. Keep adding fluid, keep pumping. It will get you by for now, but you will have to replace the master soon. And your floor mat will be a mess!

Yes my "sitcky" is the second scenario. It hasn't failed yet but i sometimesneed to tap it a few times before I can engage it (push down) again when on the freeway. Freaked me out at first but I do like you say and pump it lightly every so often on the highway. I generally never have the issue in the city, probably since I am clutching so much. Good to hear your symptoms match mine.
I'll order that now as well, thanks again.

[Icey1174]

Try only pressing the clutch as far as you need to in order to change gears. Putting the clutch to the floor each time will add to the problem till your get the master changed. Add brake fluid to the top of your reservoir. The hose for the brake fluid is the highest point on the reservoir. I am guessing they would rather you have brakes than be able to clutch if you were leaking fluid from the clutch.