A/C Comp Rebuild Instructions

[Garo156]

Hi all!

Been a while since I have been on the forum, but she is almost done and she looks fantastic. Pictures will be following. But in Louisiana it is getting hot and I need to rebuild the Nippondenso 6E air-conditioning compressor. Does anyone know of a site or link that has step by step instructions to do that. I have the seal kits I bought from Griffiths and new hoses, drier, etc. Any input would be helpful. Thanks in adavance.

[notMyScreenName]

I don't know what the difference between the 6E and the 10P15 (E in my case) is but here is a good walkthrough, with pictures, for the 10P15. It is the one I used when I rebuilt my 10P15 and I found it easy to follow. If yours is the same as the 10P15 just be careful with the carbon seal (shaft seal, whatever) as you may want to put the retaining ring on
upside down - the side with the grove faces the carbon ring so that the retainers around the ring fit into the grove when the spring on the carbon seal is compressed (I can post a picture if this isn't clear).

[kuehl]

The 944 85/2 compressor and the 911/930 84-89 compressor are nearly identical in terms of construction (assembly). You can use the article here on PP to help guide you.

Pelican Technical Article: 911 Nippondenso A/C Compressor Rebuild



When you try to split the front and rear cylinder case try to keep the pistons on the wobble plate and shaft in either the front section or the rear so they don't fall apart.
The front and rear reed plate assemblies are nearly identical but keep them separated.

Working over and on a cookie sheet is very helpful to keep things in one place and catching oil.

Inspect the pistons, bores and wobble plate for signs of wear. Inspect the reed valve plates for signs of corrosion, ditto on corrosion check where the front nose seal contacts the shaft.

Torque the 5 main long bolts to 18 ft lbs, ditto on the compressor manifold bolts

[v2rocket_aka944]

The 6E compressor you have is the early 944 unit - process is about the same as the instructions above though.
Make sure you replace the shaft seal as well - my compressor blew that out in short time after I resealed the case gaskets/o-rings and filled the system...just old parts.

Eventually I bit the bullet and bought a factory rebuilt compressor...let my bank account be your lesson

[Garo156]

thanks for all the help guys. I'm going to tackle this project this weekend. & I will give you a report back on what it does. Thank you

[notMyScreenName]

You probably have what you need, but you can get a rebuild kit here. It includes all the seals and hardware you need. It's a little expensive but saves having to hunt around all over the place for all the seals.

When I rebuilt my compressor I also replaced the expansion valve since (at least on the late models) it's easy to do and I didn't want to waste the R134a if it later turned out that it needed replacement.

[mattdavis11]

I cannot stress enough how important it is to remove the groove where the old seal rode on the shaft. Even if you are putting a lip style seal (which I would), you need it to be as smooth as a baby's arse. Use a fine grit sand paper if you must, then polish it as best you can. I use a dremel to polish every compressor shaft before I reassemble.

You are going to want an impact gun (air or electric) for the allen head through bolts on the case, the manifold plate bolts and most certainly for the clutch bolt. Makes life much easier.

I like to sand down both friction surfaces on the clutch, then clean them with brake cleaner or the like. If they are really bad, they might need to be turned on a lathe, if possible.

If going to 134a, you might need a 90 adapter for the low side on the compressor, if it has not been place on your low side line already. A 1 inch shorter belt will also aid in clearance to the low on the compressor.

Flush thoroughly, 2 quarts, ought to do. I use denatured alcohol.

Do not put all the oil in the compressor, spread it around, some in the drier, etc... Pag 46 if going to 134a. Turn the clutch several times.

Remember the 80% rule if switching to 134a. Charge to 80% of what is recommended for R12. Back the oil charge down too. Take your time dialing it in. Charging takes me no less than 45 minutes. It gets better with time.

Good luck!