Reworking the Pos side battery connection

[Danglerb]

After reading Alan's threads I'm wondering what might be the best way to redo the pos battery connection, and I am not sure of whats possible in easy to find hardware. So much of the car audio stuff is bling plated junk, I'm not sure who even makes good stuff. Kind of what I am thinking is;

Battery post clamp with two heavy cable connections.
One cable goes directly to the starter post.
One short cable goes to a fuse block mounted or not inside the tray.
Feeds for the CE panel, and car audio come off the fuse block.

Do good parts exist to do this, and does it sound like a good idea?

Should the original power cables (main feeds) be replaced with new wire?
Some people have suggested the Summit battery cables, http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+4294857854

[rhjames]

I don't mess with the OEM wiring unless it is causing problems.....

As for aftermarket radio, amps, and such-----just install it's own cabling for these items directly off the hot and ground side of the battery (with fuses, of course and some sort of split tube insulation). It's not hard to hide this cabling, even in the "trunk" area.....

It doesn't have to be a factory looking job, just make sure that wiring is not subject to cuts and bruises, and that you fuse everything you install.

Another thing to think about is a larger amperage alternator, as the OEM wasn't designed with amps ad nauseum in mind......but that's another subject for arguing about------

[Alan in AZ]

I also would not suggest replacing the main feeder to the starter - it's pretty good as it it. Sterling Gee did replace his on his stroker/variocam engine - I have not seen a need to - for better starting torque for such an engine I'd rather change out the starter.

If you do change this you'd need to go to 0 AWG for any improvement - stock is approximately 1 AWG.

As for the other feeders - there are more separate feeders on later cars and these deserve to be fused at the battery end - but are not.

My battery +ve lug clasp has a built in bolt down distribution tag that these are bolted to stock.

I removed these and used a single short 2 AWG feeder to a distribution block for my audio amp/head feeds with a 50A maxi-fuse and separately to a high current fuse block via a distrbution busbar for the feeders. These feed all the ECU, ABS & Fan supplies. All this fits quite nicely in the battery box under the lid. However most fuse blocks are not good for 30A loads (the fans) - so you must be picky here.

I also have my 0.5F audio capacitor, diodes & charging switch in the area right above & forward of the the battery box in a custom Lexan enclosure - The spare still fits! It is a very tight install since I also have the PSD fuse/ relay there - earlier models are slightly easier.

If you do these kind of changes you have to go heavy duty on everything, fully soldered ring termnal connections, grommets on passthroughs, heat shrink protection & positive retention on connectors etc in order not to create any new safety/reliability issues.

Porsche screwed up the design with these... quite badly.

You can get the HD fuse blocks at waytekwire.com, I get my HD cable at Parts Express...

Alan

[Alan in AZ]

Here are some examples of what the reconfiguration looks like implemented. First photo - at the top is the power distribution block, 50A audio maxi fuse below and 30A fuse block below that.

Note that the battery is externally vented - thats the tubing.



Second photo shows the audio cap & switch + PSD fuse/relay (stock location) etc.



Alan

[Danglerb]

That looks really slick Alan, which lug did you use?

waytekwire.com has some nice stuff, I may get a catalog to look through.

I am kind of undecided on the big caps, you like them?

[Alan in AZ]

This is not so big - 0.5F, if you have powerful amps you pretty much need some kind of cap. Mine is actually finally configured a bit differently - powered through a huge diode pair - that way I almost never have to deliberately discharge it or worry about it rapid charging or discharging. I fitted the diode and heatsink below & in front of the cap making the install an almost impossible fit... I do like a challenge!

The distribution block was purchased from Frys Electronics (quite some time ago) - its a Sound Quest model 1 in & 4 out (4AWG/8AWG - but I'm only using 1 in & 2 out) The battery connector tag is built into the terminal clasp lug bolt and is stock GTS as far as I know - but I'm sure its a pretty generic type & similar are available.

Alan