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Headlights go up but don't illuminate
I've searched this and it seems the likely culprit is the headlight relay. is there anyway to test and confirm this before i go buy a new one?
I read a thread on here where someone took out the headlight relay, opened it up cleaned it out and it got it to work fine. i guess i can try that first. I also have the '88 944... i doubt it, but are any of the relays in there compatible with the '88 928...just to test if it really is a faulty relay?
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'88 Porsche 928 S4 - LSD - Sold '88 Porsche 944 N/A - Sold |
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Looks like XXIII-XXIV is the Combination Headlamp Relay
I don't see any other relay in your CE Panel that is the same. At $117, that is an expensive relay. Maybe try 928 Intl for a good used one. I would open it up just to see if you see any obvious issues (burns, broken caps, etc).
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1981 Porsche 928 "Euro" Auto Gunsmoke Metallic Flat - Black Interior 1983 Porsche 928S "US" Auto Light Bronze (Copper) Metallic - Brown Interior **SOLD** ![]() |
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1981 Porsche 928 "Euro" Auto Gunsmoke Metallic Flat - Black Interior 1983 Porsche 928S "US" Auto Light Bronze (Copper) Metallic - Brown Interior **SOLD** ![]() |
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SharkHead
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A couple of things you can do for testing the big relay.
Feel the top of relay while turning the lights on (long arms or a helper), does it click? Pull the relay out of the socket, locate Pin sockets for PIN 15 and/or 30 (15 is hot with ig switch on RUN, 30 is always hot), does it have 12 volts (use a trouble light or v meter, pos in the socket and neg to ground)? If you are not getting 12 v to the relay socket it wont get to the lights. With the relay out of socket connect pin 85 to ground and touch 12v to pin 86; does the relay click? If so the relay is functional. You should also have continuity between 87 (the path to the device)and 30/15. Relay and fuse chart http://http://928intl.com/repair/Relay/earlyrelay2.htm No other relay to swap within the 928 but it may be similar to other P cars of similar years. Jon
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'88 Porsche 928 S4 - LSD - Sold '88 Porsche 944 N/A - Sold |
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Petie3rd
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usually this is a bad relay for the headlamps .
Remove the cover and clean all of the contacts and this will buy you time till you can find a replacement
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^^^ Stan ^^^ 2019 BMW K1250 GS 2016 HD RK 1988 S4 Auto , Elfenbein Perlglanz, Pearl Gray 1982 5sp Met black and tan sport seats |
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OK.. i ran those tests and the relay did click and it was getting power...12 volts.
i pulled it took it apart and cleaned it. i plugged it back in and still no light... until i wiggled it. i wiggled the relay and the lights illuminated. i shut the lights off, turned them back on again, and no light. wiggled it again and then light again. So this tells me that the relay is fine, but it's just not making a good connection, right? i cleaned all the prongs on the relay. I guess now i should try to clean all the plugs where the prongs plug into. maybe us a thin small screwdriver or folded up sandpaper?
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Suppository of Knowledge
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The connectors in the panel insert from the back side, and are retained by little tabls on the connector that pop out. It's possible to use a thin probe to push that little tabe back, allowing the connector to come out the rear. Hint- push the tab back, THEN withdraw the connector. Once removed, you can clean it and tighten it a smidge with pliers.
The poor-man's roadside solution has you twist the tabs on the relay itself ever-so-slightly, so they go into the CE panle connector just a hair crooked. That adds pressure on one side that will get you home. But the currect passing through just part ofthe pin will lead to heat and future failure. Since you have it in the garage and not stuck out on the highway at night, do it right, like you really mean it.
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dr bob '89 S4 Auto, Black (Needs to be cleaned) SoCal928 Co-Founder |
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Petie3rd
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if the relay will come on with a wiggle inspect the female connectors it plugs into if they look good then the relay probably has a loose connection try soldering the the male pins either inside or out the relay box this might cure the issue
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^^^ Stan ^^^ 2019 BMW K1250 GS 2016 HD RK 1988 S4 Auto , Elfenbein Perlglanz, Pearl Gray 1982 5sp Met black and tan sport seats |
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![]() The electrics, overall, seem to be a problem area in this car... so i think i can do a lot of good by removing that panel and cleaning it as much as i can.
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There's a latch release for the lower connectors per the WSM. I haven't needed to pull any yet so can't share guidance on location of that latch. The connectors are keyed, but still a good idea to label them as they come out.
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dr bob '89 S4 Auto, Black (Needs to be cleaned) SoCal928 Co-Founder |
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Yeah, mine weren't keyed to where you couldn't plug the one next to it in the wrong slot. They were keyed to where you couldn't plug it upside down. Labeling is a must and not a smart move if you don't. It may have changed in the later year 928's but I would still label them regardless (like you said). I also went through all the grey wires on the back of the CE to make sure none were melted and grounded. Check those Relay plugs (receiving ends) as they can get pushed in. Lots of wire brushing on those too. Just make sure to blow them all out since any bristle from the wire brush can create a short.
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1982 928 us
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MP truely such a inspiration i want to do mine all over again, not! lol
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I guess I'm a little confused. I removed the entire panel. Took out all the relays. Cleaned all the relay posts (male end). Checked all the fuses. But I don't know how to clean all the relay plugs... the receiving ends. Did you literally pull out each wire from the back? Or did you just get a super tiny wire brush and stick it in the hole? I sprayed the entire thing with electronic cleaner, but I don't know how else to get in each plug to clean it out.
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Spray electronic cleaner in the receiving plugs and blow it out with a compressor to make sure no bristles are there and it is all dry before putting it back in service. I did "not" spray the Relays themselves and I didn't want any liquid to get in the relay body. Just brush the spades and wipe it off.
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