Alternate Kick Down Relay?

[MPDano]

Is there an Alternate Solution or do we have to use the exact one? Just wondering as the Relay is $60

[vdubr928]

For auto trans?

[MPDano]

Yup, Automatic Tranny

[vdubr928]

Used one ok? I let the fuse panel from my auto go to a local guy with. 5 speed. Bet you two could work it out. If you're interested in a working used one let me know and ill have him chime in.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by vdubr928

Used one ok? I let the fuse panel from my auto go to a local guy with. 5 speed. Bet you two could work it out. If you're interested in a working used one let me know and ill have him chime in.

For sure. He can post or PM me. I'm kinda here a lot

[MPDano]

Didn't hear anything from vdubr's buddy so ordered me the Kick Down Relay and a couple ones that use the same as the Horn Relay.

Hopefully this $60 Relay fixes my Kick Down In-Op. My Euro doesn't have a Kick Down Relay but must be hard wired.

I had a few bad relays in my "S" CE panel so I bet this will work. Will keep you all posted.

[MPDano]

Yikes! Just notified by Pelican that the Kick Down Relay # 92861810900 is NLA. Still looking for one then

[MPDano]

I was wondering if the Switch under the Accelerator Pedal is a grounding switch. I'm not very good at reading schematics, so does anyone know the answer to this question?

The reason I ask is once I get my Kick Down working, I want to install a KD Bypass switch that is lighted. They are 3 prong so I assume I need one of the prongs to be ground.

[neil30076]

Leo, the kick down switch provides 12v from the '15' rail to the relay pin 30, so it is not a grounding switch.
Wire your light between K1 and ground, and it will be on when KD switch is active.

[MPDano]

Thanks Neil! Exactly what I needed. Looks like a non-lighted rocker switch is what I need.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by MPDano

I was wondering if the Switch under the Accelerator Pedal is a grounding switch. I'm not very good at reading schematics, so does anyone know the answer to this question?

The reason I ask is once I get my Kick Down working, I want to install a KD Bypass switch that is lighted. They are 3 prong so I assume I need one of the prongs to be ground.

If it's relay XV at least on my 86, it appears to be a solid state relay. A see one terminal goes to ground, so possibly the switch is putting voltage on it. Be careful what you hook up to it.

[MPDano]

Yup, theres a little circuit board in there. I opened it up to see if there was any obvious signs of it being bad. Nothing noticeable. I already bought a good used one from the 9 source about an hour ago. He said it's tested so if this doesn't solve it, then it's gonna be the part on the tranny.

[neil30076]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Thanks Neil! Exactly what I needed. Looks like a non-lighted rocker switch is what I need.

You can do either, if you want the switch lite all the time, connect to the light + to the circuit 15 side, if you want it to light only when kd bypass switch is hit, connect the light + side to K1.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by neil30076

You can do either, if you want the switch lite all the time, connect to the light + to the circuit 15 side, if you want it to light only when kd bypass switch is hit, connect the light + side to K1.

Interesting. Will give that a go, which I can do on my Euro now since the KD works. Except I can't test it legally since I need to Smog it (reg fees already paid).

Does the k1 wire have a different color that you can tell?

[neil30076]

Looks like the K1 wire is gr/br - the other wire on the kd switch under the gas pedal is black, which is the '15' wire, should should be easy to find!

[harborman]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Yup, theres a little circuit board in there. I opened it up to see if there was any obvious signs of it being bad. Nothing noticeable. I already bought a good used one from the 9 source about an hour ago. He said it's tested so if this doesn't solve it, then it's gonna be the part on the tranny.

There is usually no way of telling if a solid state devise is bad without testing it, other than you know it's malfunctioning. Sometimes even testing it without a high empedence meter can actually damage the device. Normally, they short out, but other components associated with it's operation can cause the failure. Solid state devices are prone to destruction by voltage spikes. Anyway, my point is if you put a cheap meter on it, it may cause a failure of the device. Note the schematic diagram of the relay, it has a symbol of a transistor in it, so you will know it's not a mechanical relay.

[MPDano]

I was able to fix an old CRT Monitor and an old HD 30 Flat Panel TV a few years back by looking at an obvious burned Cap/Transistor or a broken circuit, then by using a diagram (schematic?), figure out the proper Cap, Resistor that belonged there. Using my handy dandy soldering iron, flux, paste and a magnifying glass, I was in business. It's been a few years but I think it had to do with the bands and colors. Anyways, that's what i was looking for. If I had to resort to any testing, it made it's way to the dumpster.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by MPDano

I was able to fix an old CRT Monitor and an old HD 30 Flat Panel TV a few years back by looking at an obvious burned Cap/Transistor or a broken circuit, then by using a diagram (schematic?), figure out the proper Cap, Resistor that belonged there. Using my handy dandy soldering iron, flux, paste and a magnifying glass, I was in business. It's been a few years but I think it had to do with the bands and colors. Anyways, that's what i was looking for. If I had to resort to any testing, it made it's way to the dumpster.

Yes, I have done they same thing at times. You can look up the resistor color coding or get a sheet on it. (black, brown, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, gray, white). If I remember Black = 0, brown = 1, etc. Now a lot of electronics uses surface mount technology much harder to replace components without proper equipment. Always use solder made for electronics, usually has the flux inside it. Also, when replacing resistors make sure the wattage rating is the same or higher and on caps, the voltage rating and sometimes polarity.

[neil30076]

Originally Posted by MPDano

I was able to fix an old CRT Monitor and an old HD 30 Flat Panel TV a few years back by looking at an obvious burned Cap/Transistor or a broken circuit, then by using a diagram (schematic?), figure out the proper Cap, Resistor that belonged there. Using my handy dandy soldering iron, flux, paste and a magnifying glass, I was in business. It's been a few years but I think it had to do with the bands and colors. Anyways, that's what i was looking for. If I had to resort to any testing, it made it's way to the dumpster.

Leo, shot me a high res picture of both sides of the pc and i'll tell you how to check it out.
Neil

[MPDano]

Thanks for the offer Neil but the day I bought a good used one, I sent mine to a place that said they can repair it. Bad timing as I sent it in the morning and then was offered a good used one for a great price right after that, so I bought it.