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the coil wires run to two round ceramic connectors that are mounted low on drivers side inner fender the wires are put on both ends with phillips head screws...cant get those off to clean! what green wire? they are wrapped in a grey sleeve,cant see them but the two coil wires are black.

This should help in locating it.

Porsche 928 Forums dot com - View topic - Pics of my First 928 and Current Project

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man u really know your stuff,found it! glad u r on here!! thanks,im sure ill have more FAQ's! thanks bro,jeff

Did the car run before?

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yes,like a scalded dog with no issues,doesnt leak a drop! it will start if i jump the coil and put gas in the intake,will run great till the gas is gone. it wants to start but wont now.

but when i do that i have no pedal....it wont rev up at all!

Sheesh. Now you've got to retrace all of your steps throughout the car after the last time it ran.

Sounds very similar to my no start that was caused by the L-Jet ECU ground being loose. It's mounted UNDER the auxiliary air valve on the passenger side of the engine, beneath the breather tube. There is one screw securing that valve to the valve cover, the ground is under on the same screw.

I was able to get mine running with starting spray. While idling, I touched the aux air valve and the car stalled, thus I found my problem.

Yours is probably equally simple, and you will kick yourself when you finally find it.

Check your fuses again. Can you hear your fuel pump running after cranking the engine? There is a fuel pump relay, it may have gone bad while you were messing around in there. There is also an L-Jet ECU relay.

What exactly have you done in the engine bay since it last ran?

Actually, my advice may not apply to an 80.

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there is only two grounds on the pass. side valve cover and nothing on the driv. side.

my fuse and relay chart doesnt list a L-JET ECU relay.....? no clue?

80 US shows up as an L-Jet, so I think your advice is valid.

MPDANO....u posted "most common issues and fixes" the pics of electrical ground points,and 9a &9b points with 10, for early models, i need that and think that will fix my issues!

I referred to that air valve as the auxiliary air valve, that is incorrect, it is the smog pump control valve. The aux air valve is farther inboard just forward/right of the AFM. If the real aux air valve is not operating, the car won't run.

Seriously, you caused your problem with fiddling around with other stuff. You've got to re-trace your steps and verify everything you laid your hands on.

To give you a good idea of how important solid connections of positive and negative leads are:

my 93 Isuzu trooper lately has been having some weird issues with loping idle, random revving, all around craziness, besides what looks like a blown head gasket.

Yesterday I disconnected the battery leads and scrubbed the crap out of them. I re-did the accessory positive lead for the stereo, replaced all the ground wires I could see, scrubbed everything........now the loping idle and random revving has vanished. All gone and fairly smooth (considering there's coolant running into one of the cylinders). I was shocked to see what a difference it made. The battery leads looked okay, but they were not, and they weren't tight enough, either.

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the only thing i did was undo bypassed electrical units and made them correct,found and took off every ground wire on the car and cleaned and put right back on,replaced coil,battery,and put fresh gas in it. everything on the inside-lights,windows,headlights,radio,central lock syst. ect. works,im getting no spark! its getting very frustrating!

No spark: verify you have voltage from the ignition control unit to the coil, should be 12 volts, I guess. After you verify volts at the coil, verify higher volts coming out of the coil.

I'm not sure how to test a coil while not in the car, but you may need to do that. Or buy a new one and see what happens.

Having a no start after having an awesomely running car can be exasperating, I know. Just try to slow down and be as methodical as you can. Sometimes my emotions got the best of me, and I approached my no start with the determination that the most expensive part in the car had gone bad, but it was just a loose ground. Be patient and methodical. This group will get you through it.

Also, how did you test to see that you have no spark? Pull a plug wire and watch for sparking?

You say you pulled and cleaned every ground you could find, right? That's got to be your answer: do it again, but slower, and use monkey-torque when reinstalling. Also, read out the grounds that you messed with to verify that you didn't break one of the wires. Sometimes wires can break but the insulation will look fine. As you're redoing your grounds, read them out: leave one end connected to the car, read from loose end to a good ground spot on the car.

One more thing: some grounds you cannot verify that way, you've got to go to the L-Jet computer connector and read them (while the ground is installed). Pull the connector free, find the socket you need, and read for ground.

My connector does not have the numbers for the sockets, and it was difficult to figure which socket was which. Maybe one the guys here can give you a diagram of your connector.