Airtek I would be concerned about the shavings in the fill hole what is all of that stuff,
I would suggest to remove the rear cover on the trans to inspect your gearset

Could be the flash...I got no shavings out in the oil, it was pretty smooth...very thick. On the magnetic plug, there was no shavings that I could see, just a little thick muck, like you find in the filter of a transmission, like graphite....it is not really clean in there though, I am sure moisture had gotten in.

I had a no start problem brought about by lack of use. Solved that with a night on the trickle charger. Yesterday I was happy to have a running car. I decided to tackle the AC switch. Hot air in California valley heat is not good. The PO had supplied me with another warning reset/seat belt warning/AC switch panel when I got the car. I pulled the old panel to find that the circuit board was missing which explains no warning light and reset switch function. The AC used to work. I have pulled the relay and cleaned connections. I wonder if there is a loose wire to the compressor but that involves getting under the car. I have no lift or jack and space is at a premium in the one car garage I have. The summer garage clean out project is coming in the next few months. I will most likely have to limit work to the top side of the car.

Hobbyshark you can remove the 8mm metal screws and protective plate without jacking up the car and get a look at the compressor connections.

But first start the car with the AC off and look at the compressor belt spin freely, next turn on the AC and check that the compressor clutch is working or is not.
That will at least get you started. Then determine why it is not activating the clutch.
If it is turning the compressor, you need a charge most likely as you know.

Be careful, watch your hands while looking in there with motor idling.



I replaced my fuel filter last night, pretty dirty gas came out after a year. saved it for my push mower anyway!

Very nice design back there for the FF.

I ran it with both the switch on and off and the clutch on the compresser did not engage.

Everyday

I got the cleaned fuel injectors back in the car. Not the worst job once you come up with a system for getting them seated, but until then, whew. Also, I wouldn't necessarily tighten hard line connectors as tight as they needed to be to not leak.

My injectors were very dirty. Injector number 3 saw an 18% improvement in static flow rate. One improved 12% and some others 10%. Car feels much faster. I hit the kick down switch on the highway yesterday and scared the crap out of myself! Woooot!

Still have a lumpy idle, and its still running rich. Next is a compression check and revisit the vacuum hoses. I just figured out that the PO deleted the vacuum limiter and the vacuum hoses are probably more wrong than right, based on his previous work.

Attempted repair of flex circuit in the pod. I've been running with no gauges for about a year after all of them started misbehaving. The PO had already attempted/failed one repair. Surely I could do better... My repair, while beautiful to behold, sucked just as bad when during re-installation the entire flex assembly came apart. The glue disintegrated and I had loose traces flopping everywhere. A complete disaster. Not sure if I'm going to "Frankenstein" it by running hard wires terminated with cannon plugs, or continue the search for gauges from another 80 Euro. sigh.

928 641 939 00 the printed film for the instruments seems to be available from Porsche around $280, used to be $100 if you can find someone with old stock willing to sell it.

fixed a wire going to headlights, and getting ready for lizard short shifter,,,

Muffler installed and gutted cat removed, Y pipe installed...found busted up exhaust manifold...crap.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369881945.jpg

I put mine on trickle charge a couple days ago, and need to check the A/C switch....starting to act a bit funny. Have to jiggle it to get it to work. So, maybe this weekend I'll remove it, maybe take it apart, see if I can clean contacts or something???? We'll see....

I got the Texas "safety inspection" done on mine yesterday. $14 for the inspection. Sure is nice to have a 31 year old Super Car :) (that runs very well).

+1!

I drove around all day and now have to replace my two rear tires both belt strands are broken and the fuel pump wont work with the relay plugged in ??

I replaced original brake lines with braided steel upgrades.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370008217.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370008276.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370008342.jpg

Back lines took longer, just harder to get to.
This is a whole different thread but, note power bleeder, one of the better purchases I have made in my life.:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1368057469.jpg

Is that an aftermarket cross-member? Nice!

Just took it out for a good cruise. It always puts a smile on my face :).

Thanks, the cross brace is via 928 motor-sports up in Wisconsin. Carl does good work. A lot of good aftermarket kits.

Replaced my tie rods today. The alignment shop said they could not align my car because of a small side to side movement in the wheels. The outer tie rods were solid and the steering rack was not moving, so the movement must have been coming from the inner tie rods. I was concerned that the 32 mm wrench would be too thick to use, but it turns out there is an aluminum spacer that slides to the side allowing the wrench to be used. I've attached a photo. I used a 22 mm wrench to counter hold the rack. One issue I did run into was that I had to lift the car high so I could fit the full length of the 32 mm wrench under it. There was definitely movement in the inner tie rods, so I'm glad I did this repair. I don't plan on driving it until I take it back for an alignment. The inner tie rod is to the left and the steering rack is to the right.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370781138.jpg