1980.keeps fowling first 4 spark plugs.

[Mrmerlin]

the cap can only fit on the body one way as there is a detent for the cap.
that said with the engine at TDC the cams will also be lined up thus the rotor should also be pointing at the hash mark this is #1 and thus the #1 plug wire should also be plugged into the cap at this point.

[mixybro4]

So the number one plug wire won't exactly be in line with the hash mark?

[Mrmerlin]

here is a picture of the distributor not yours but,

note the hash mark a small cut and square detent for the cap.

Note the slot in the shaft will also align the tip of the rotor,
so this rotor needs to be turned about 160 degrees to be at TDC.

Disregard the points portion of the picture

[Mrmerlin]

This information is also in the WSM if you dont have the WSM,
then you should get a copy from Roger on DVD

[mixybro4]

**** I thought the hash mark was the square detent for the cap, I have never noticed that other little cut in it. I will have to check.

[MPDano]

All the detent your talking about is so the cap doesn't move and fits only one way. I'm pretty sure most if not all distys have that slit that Merlins talking about.

[Mrmerlin]

the small cut line is to check timing of the rotor when the engine it at TDC
the rotors leading edge should be at the line.

You 928 distributor will also have the cut line and the square detent,
the detent keeps the cap oriented to the distributor, so #1 plug wire is kept at #1 or the hash mark

[Landseer]

If you don't have the WSM and wiring diagrams, and/or aren't spending 20 hours a week doing deep research reading , then you will always struggle. There is too much involved with these cars, they are not intuitive.

Can't tell you how many times this stuff has been covered on rennlist since 2002, and even here on Pelican in the last 2 or 3 years.

[mixybro4]

Okay guys got the distributor and engine back in time. Adjusted the distributor so idle was at 850. Then took it around the block, acceleration was phenomenal! Maybe just a little tiny room for improvement, then put it back in park and it idled up to 1400. Put it back in drive, idled down to 650-700. Drove it a little put It back in park, idled up to 1200. Then it started idling to about 1400, would like stop, catch it self at about 400, back up to 1400, stop. And just keep doing that over and over until I put it back in drive and gave it gas. Sounds like some sensor or something to me. Thanks for the help so far guys. A lot of this stuff is new to me and I'm trying to learn it as quickly as I can.

[Mrmerlin]

do you have a WSM?

[mixybro4]

no what does that stand for?

[Mrmerlin]

Work Shop Manual =WSM call Roger and order a DVD it has a whole lotta info that the regular manuals dont have this is what your going to need to work on your car

[Landseer]

Best $75 you will spend. Period.

[mixybro4]

Alright will do. Any troubleshooting you guys think I can do before the DVD gets here?

[Mrmerlin]

do you have a timing light?
if mot borrow one then read the WSM for how to set the timing.

NOTE simply setting it for best running could infact damage the valves as
too far advanced or retarded could run the engine hotter.

once the timing is set and the vacuum lines are checked for no leaks then set the idle speed

[mixybro4]

I already took care of timing. Engine is running a thousand times better. Some vaccuum lines have been replaced, do you recommended replacing all of them? What's your opinion on replacing injectors?

[Mrmerlin]

if they can be cleaned then i would send the injectors to Witchunter.
replace as many of the vacuum lines that you can

[Danglerb]

You only need to replace the ones that leak, but you may have some misrouted, or bad sensors etc. Roger and maybe others make up kits with all the hoses and connectors assembled for your model, so easy way is to replace them all. The vacuum hoses are the cheap part, Porsche breather hoses can be $$$.

MityVac works well for testing for vacuum leaks and to actuate control valves etc.

[mixybro4]

Okay I'll look into all that. Couple more questions. Speedo started cutting out at 25mph. I recently put a new circuit film on and checked all the resistors and everything. It worked before. Perhaps a lose wire? Also. Is there anything that goes bad that stops the AC system from working entirely? The fan does not come on or anything, the AC compressor does not engage, you think the fan would at least make a noise or something?

[mixybro4]

Also is there anyway to shut off that goddamn buzzing noise when a door is open or when you just turn the key one click?