My LS1 Conversion 911 - Page 6

DW SD · 03-30-2009, 08:52 AM

oil temps will be as hot or hotter than coolant. If that's what they are used for, I'd think you are cleared for take-off. what is a wiggins fitting? Are those ends threaded or meant to clamp?

They kind of look like something for a washing machine or dishwasher outlet.

Doug

RarlyL8 · RarlyL8's Garage

Looking good. You need to secure the hoses up under the rear tray area so they will not abraid anything on the engine as they move or vibrate.

shanghai_todd · 03-30-2009, 10:47 AM

Agree, I will need to modify my radiator inlet and outlet if I decide to use these hoses, I will need to cut off about 1/2" to get the 90 degree elbow to clear. I am still waiting to get more feedback on this type of hose before I make any cuts.

I was thinking these hoses were going to be braided bu they seem more like a hose for a vacuum cleaner in my house

Boiling water now to see how they take the heat

If it all checks out I will do the modification and route them correctly, picture earlier was just temporary to see if they would fit

Quote:

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

Looking good. You need to secure the hoses up under the rear tray area so they will not abraid anything on the engine as they move or vibrate.

shanghai_todd · 03-30-2009, 11:15 AM

Whats cooking?

My guess is that these are the PTFE hoses similar to what is listed below. I have been cooking it in boiling water for 20 min and they do not appear to weaken under heat. No melting or dis-figurement after 20min and I believe water boils at over 200F so maybe these will hold up OK.

shanghai_todd · 03-30-2009, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DW SD

oil temps will be as hot or hotter than coolant. If that's what they are used for, I'd think you are cleared for take-off. what is a wiggins fitting? Are those ends threaded or meant to clamp?

They kind of look like something for a washing machine or dishwasher outlet.

Doug

They are for meant to be used with a special clamp, They are very expensive to use so I will probably cut and use a nylon hose coupler to give it a little flex at the radiator.

The Wiggins clamps below are something like 30~40 dollars so I do not want to go with welding the male adapter needed and the clamps for something that has not been proven out yet. There are still many "What Ifs" with having a radiator mounted as I am doing so this must be proven first.

shanghai_todd · 04-12-2009, 10:53 AM

Eater Update:

Decided to put some time into the project this weekend and have made some good progress. The oil cooler upgrade fit perfectly and went in the factory location of the rear oil tank. It is rather small but I did not want to have to go thru the trouble of a t-stat. If cooling becomes an issue than I will probably go bigger if needed. The 10AN lines were a nice addition and I decided to add a second oil pressure sensor and temp to monitor. The after market gauge will hook to these sensors and I will use the factory gauges to connect to the other sensors. Just a little added insurance just in case 1 sensor goes bad

shanghai_todd · 04-12-2009, 10:57 AM

Radiator Update:
With all the great feedback regarding the radiator I ended up removing the old setup and went with a more robust hose and 20AN fitting. I was very surprised in how big a 20AN fitting and almost did not have enough room to weld the flange to the end tanks.

shanghai_todd · 04-12-2009, 11:03 AM

More pictures of the completed cooling system. I was able to fill the entire system and run the pump for 30min without any leaks. The pump builds great pressure in the lines and flows a small amount thru the t-stat where I drilled the small holes. The Nascar flex hoses are pretty firm and provide just enough flex for the opening and closing of the rear deck lid. The added support shock on the right hand side is also holding up to the added weight of the water

shanghai_todd · 04-12-2009, 11:07 AM

I decided to route the intake into the fender near the oil cooler. Once I put my bumper back on I will measure the clearance for a nice big K&N. It will probably pickup much dirt coming off the tires so I will need to fabricate some type of shield or cover.

tobluforu · tobluforu's Garage

Very cool once again. I would say that it's a mistake putting the filter there, but I'm sure with your mechanical skills that you post a few pics later on with a very neat setup.

DanielDudley · 04-12-2009, 11:53 AM

Awesome job ! Remember that hydrolocking a cylinder is possible if the air intake sucks up water. Big bang. I have heard of this happening to the Mustang guys when they don't run a fender liner.

jh225 · 04-12-2009, 05:15 PM

With the AN fittings and radiator hoses routed like you now have them, when you close the lid is there not too much bend (near the firewall) in the hoses to flow properly?

willtel · 04-12-2009, 05:48 PM

Looking good, new coolant lines look much cleaner.

If you put the air cleaner there where are you going to put the twin turbos?

Roc Doc · 04-12-2009, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shanghai_todd

Radiator Update:
With all the great feedback regarding the radiator I ended up removing the old setup and went with a more robust hose and 20AN fitting. I was very surprised in how big a 20AN fitting and almost did not have enough room to weld the flange to the end tanks.

Is that your TIG work? If so, then my hat's off to you. I can barely MIG my way of a wet paper bag.

As far as the K&N goes, I'd stay away from that brand. They flow a lot of air, but don't filter very well. An AFE would be a better choice IMO.

shanghai_todd · 04-12-2009, 06:05 PM

I had the radiator manufactured in China to fit in the location of the intercooler. Yea the guys at the shop can weld pretty good, not often you find a good Chinese machine shop in China. But since I stay in Shanghai 50% of the year it is a little easier for me

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roc Doc

Is that your TIG work? If so, then my hat's off to you. I can barely MIG my way of a wet paper bag.

As far as the K&N goes, I'd stay away from that brand. They flow a lot of air, but don't filter very well. An AFE would be a better choice IMO.

shanghai_todd · 04-12-2009, 06:09 PM

When the lid is open there is a slight strain on the bend radius but enough to flow. When closed the hose is then opened up more and no restriction. The hoses I used are braided flex and are very strong so they should hold up well

Quote:

Originally Posted by jh225

With the AN fittings and radiator hoses routed like you now have them, when you close the lid is there not too much bend (near the firewall) in the hoses to flow properly?

PorscheGuy79 · PorscheGuy79's Garage

Without question the best conversion I have ever seen. Well done my friend! Through, complete, pretty and perfection.

LvSteveH · 04-16-2009, 09:01 PM

Looks great. The inline thermostat looks pretty symmetrical, but it's not. If you're using a typical sbc thermostat the housing can be backwards which restricts flow through the housing. By that I mean the housing can be flipped around the wrong way even though the thermostat is going the right way. It will still cool, just not to full potential. You probably checked prior to installation

Oh, and on the thermostat the flow goes through the spring side first and out the flat side.

shanghai_todd · 05-03-2009, 11:28 PM

Thanks Steve, I was lucky that you marked the T-stat with an arrow before I had it welded

Here are some more pictures of how I have my t-stat and flex hose setup.

BTW, I would highly recommend the constant pressure hose clamps from NAPA, they are slightly more $$$ but the quality and strength worth the extra coin.

sc_rufctr · 05-04-2009, 01:18 AM

You can't leave a piece of pipe like that. You need to "BLING" it a bit...

Great build...