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[QUOTE=mkingham;5004353]I have always liked ATI's Harmonic Balancers / Pulleys. Don't forget to buy a new bolt if you make the swap, the crank bolt is not re-useable on LS motors.
Keep the pictures coming. I am working on my fuel tank mount and radiator setup. I'll be curious to see how you route the cooling lines. I ended up running mine through the frame heating vents. I like the set up. What tubing are you using for the coolant lines front to back? What radiator (sizing) did you go with? |
to me it was much easier to modify the 911 gas tank[shorten] as well as to mount dual wahlberg fuel pumps internally. and it will allow you to use a 996? spare tire if the battery is mounted in the smugglers box.. also much easier and cleaner to run the water hoses to the front similar to the porsche oil cooling lines. if you ever develop a leak you will see what i mean. the rectangular cell allows way to much heat up into the front compartment whereas the porsche tank fits the opening and is sealed with a gasket. be sure to remove the dash cap and seal all the openings in the dash framework. it is more porous than a sieve.
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Fenders came in today. they are going to take a bit of fitting to get them right.
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...65/photo-1.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/photo2-1.jpg |
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I agree with lin7310948 on both the tank and running the lines. But I think he has an older 911 that uses the steel front cross member (lin7310948, my appoligies if I am wrong) If my memory serves, those steel front cross members are a lot easier to run the lines around. My 911 has the aluminum cross member and I could not find a good route for the lines through the suspension without a LOT of contact with the sway bar, cross member and fuel pump (YIKES) So I went the vent route. I know someone ran the lines (using hard tubing) through the front wheel wells and I have also seen someone else that drilled holes through the front cross member instead of going around it. As for the tank, I used a small square RCI cell so I could route the lines around it. I'm sure using a shortened original tank is cleaner (plus it has a better center of gravity), but where do you route the cooling lines to get from under the car to the radiator??
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As for the radiator, I bought mine from Renegade. |
front crossmember
my car is a 71 but i changed over to an aluminum front crossmember. i drilled suitable holes and had aluminum tubing of the correct size welded in place. the water lines then are clamped onto the tubing ends. works very well and helps to maintain the strength of the crossmember.
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Looking at your progress I envy your enthusiasm. (you must be young)
Once done you're going to have a manic car on your hands. Good luck with everything! |
OK, Taking a break from the engine till the cage is in later this month. (I will do the wiring harness this weekend)
Back to the bodywork: http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB120485.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB120486.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB120487.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB120488.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB120484.jpg |
did a little bodywork and a lot of leaves this weekend.
I have lots of fitting left to do. This is just test fitting Justin stopped by to give his professional opinion: http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB150513.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB150515.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB150517.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB150518.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB150519.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB150520.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB150521.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/PB150521.jpg |
If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all.
I'll leave it at that. |
If you are still taking suggestions I would consider getting some of the bosch 993 headlights for those fenders. Slightly more effort but it would get you back a little closer to the spirit of the car.
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below is where I am going: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250828612.jpg |
Rebel...fascinating, unique and ambitious project. Looking forward to the results. I'd love to have a well sorted V8 conversion. I'm no purist but if you don't mind me asking was this the gorgeous 930 you had psoted in earlier threads? What prompted your decison to mod that car rather than finding one that was not so pristine as a starting point?
Sorry if I missed the decision process in earlier threads. |
Cleaning it up for the cage/bracing to be put in. I had to remove the back seat; it will be going back in around the bracing.
I still have to clean where the door bars are going to the front. When I was pulling all the crap out from under the dash a brand new set of keys for the car fell out from somewhere under the dash. Later I will grab some pics of the rats nest of **** wiring that someone hacked up in the dash. I also have the new shocks and bushings for the rear. http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_0957.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_0958.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_0959.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_0960.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_0962.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_0966.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_0968.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/IMG_0969.jpg |
Who did your throttle body work? Are you running an LS1 or LS6 intake? I decided to take off my aluminum Typhoon intake and swap it with an LS6 intake but came across a problem with my old TB. Turns out my Typhoon intake uses a 86mm and the LS6 is 78mm :(
+1 for the LS6 intake being lighter, probably more than half the weight of the Typhoon and I now do not need to worry about heat soak.. [QUOTE=Rebel911;5005591]Got the throttle body back and on. |
You've got balls
I admire how radical your custom is.
I'm confident it will be a great car when you're finished. I'd like to make a suggestion on the paint. If you paint the air inlets black and hold the edge to where the window would have been. You'll be able to hold onto the classic 911 look. Here's some bad photoshop of what I'm talking about. I'm sure you have it painted in your head already. Just a suggestion. Good luck. Tomhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1261520854.jpg |
Sorry I did not see that there were new posts.
The engine is a LS1, I am building that up starting mid-January. Thanks for the information Paint ideas are in the works. I will make note of your idea. The car is off to Dan's http://www.rspeed.org/forums/avatars...ine=1255055559 to put the cage/bracing in. http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1261666266 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1261666266 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1261666267 |
Went to visit the car last night at Dan's (aka: Reactive Chassis Co.)
He is building/fitting the cage better than I expected. He is putting in double door bars this weekend. I can't wait to get the engine in. http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/1-2.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...3665/2-2-1.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/4-1.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/5-1.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/6-1.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/7-1.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/8-1.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv261/AAD3665/9.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv261/AAD3665/10.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv261/AAD3665/11.jpg |
Roll bar looks great but one concern about the cross member and bar that is welded across it. If you are using the RH intake I do not think you will be able to make the clearance. I had this initial problem and had to make some modification to how the engine sits in the cradle to give it about 1/2" to clear.
Attached is a picture of how close the throttle body sits against the cross member. Hope this helps http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264226100.jpg |
Thanks for the picture. I will have to arch the brace over.
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Harrop ITB intake option
Hi Rebel911,
I have a solution that will allow you to keep your bracing. You could use a Harrop ITB intake. Rather than pulling the air from the (now) back of the engine, they pull from the top (in 8 places) Many people report that ITBs allow much greater cam profiles while maintaining a smooth idle as well as better throttle response. But hold onto your wallet, they are very pricey.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264355815.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264355833.jpg |
Hello, I would like you ITBs please. Yes, do you take Visa or Gold Bullion?
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This might work also. looks like a better solution than RH's short radius 90.
http://www.streetsideauto.com/send_b...290&Save=False http://www.streetsideauto.com/images...ledMustang.jpg * Weight: 5.3 LB * Height: 6.5in. * Width: 6.81in. * Depth: 13.5in. or LOW AND ULTRA LOW INTAKE ELBOWS http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ages/38483.jpg |
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just picked up the Porsche from http://www.rspeed.org/forums/avatars...ine=1255055559
Dan did better than I could have imagined. He is going to brace the front and run through the firewall to the door bars before it is fully finished. http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/1-3.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/2-3.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/3-3.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/4-2.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv261/AAD3665/14.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/6-2.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/7-2.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/5-2.jpg http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...AD3665/9-1.jpg |
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all that is left is to lift the car 30 inches and slide it in.
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269724895 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269724919 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269724876 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269724877 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269724887 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269724888 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269724890 the 1st German part bolted onto the engine... and it didn't burst into flames... http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269724891 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269724895 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269724895 |
Kinda a ***** to get the engine with one person... but it's in.
PLEASE NOTE THIS IS JUST THE TEST FIT http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813717 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813719 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813720 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813721 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813722 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269814014 The cage allowed for me to make a strap winch system to work the engine into the transmission evenly. nice and smooth. http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269814077 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813723 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813726 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813725 |
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813726
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813731 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813731 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813732 it still has to go up about 4 inches. I have a small clearance issue to take care of later when I am fresh and relaxed. http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813732 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813733 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269813734 |
Here is a trick for installing / removing engines...
Put your car on your trailer and let the rear end hang off of the back of the trailer. You barely have to jack the car and it puts everything at a nice height for working on it. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1269820874.jpg Russian hat and forklift are optional. |
how I installed the engine
Congratulations on getting the engine in. For what it is worth, I put the engine and tranny in as a unit. I also had installed the headers before placing the engine. I had to 'trial fit' about three times before I got the brackets all lined up, by the third time, I had it down to a science. (3 floor jacks did the trick for me) Two under each control arm and one to position the nose of the tranny as I slid it under the car.
I'm still not sure how the intake is going to clear the brace between the shock mounts. Are you going to position the engine so the intake is above the brace? Mike http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1269871359.jpg |
Right now my problem is the "f" brackets on the front of the engine. the water inlet and outlet.
they are going to hit the rear cross member. I didn't pull the tranny out so that should be lined up right. engine is mounted right on the tranny but it is still hitting in the rear. any ideas? I am going to cut and re-weld the cross brace in-front of the throttle body. |
install
im with mike. i would install the motor and transmission as a unit and not try to leave the trans in place. my engine is a sbc with a shortbell 930 transaxle and i have no trouble with the install as far as the front to rear distance. i do not have a rear facing throttle body but that should be easy to correct. you might also do a search where forum members have modified the transaxle shifting opening to allow the motor and transaxle to be lifted straight up into place. good luck.
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will do thanks for the advise.
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Here are some pictures. any ideas?
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269955344 http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1269956230 |
just looking at the second one again; i could possibly remove the 90's and put them back on after it is lifted up.
or even just take off the "f" bracket completely then put it back on. |
install
i am assuming that you have not mated the trans and the motor in this last picture. i believe that i would remove the transaxle and and install on the motor and then install as a unit. hate to keep harping on this but i have found that this is a much easier way to put in place. how much clearance do you have at the torsion bar tube. my chassis is a 71 and i had to modify the transmission mounting plate and move the transaxle approximately 1 inch forward on the mount and hence the motor is located similarly. you might have to remove the throttlebody on the rear and install once the motor is in place.
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