Boxster Project 86 : Ignition Switch Replacement

[Wayne 962]

Anyone got any questions on Project 86 - Ignition Switch Replacement for your 986 Boxster, 987 Boxster, Cayman, Carrera 996, or Carrera 997?

Here's a back link to the original article: Pelican Technical Article: 86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch

-Wayne

[westladog]

I replaced this switch a little over a month ago. Can it failed again that quickly? It left my wife stranded again. Same symptoms.....won't crank....nothing....nada..battery fine.


By the way, would it start had she been able to pop the clutch?

[Wayne 962]

Maybe it would have started. Are you sure it's not the clutch pedal switch? Seems unlikely that it would fail within a month!

-Wayne

[westladog]

You're right! After the tow truck dropped the Boxster off, I tried starting it and it started. I also noticed that the floor mat was all bunched up so that could have been an issue too preventing her from depressing the pedal all the way to the floor. I was able to replicate the problem and also was able to start the car once I completely depress the pedal all the way down. Is the switch an issue? I can just use a small magnet to increase the contact depth?

[westladog]

Is this switch unique or something I can pick up from a local autoparts store?
If it's not pelicanparts.com, can you give me the link and part number?

Should I replace the red switch too? It's working fine because the cruise control works.

thanks

[thstone]

The two clutch switches control completely separate functions: If the ignition isn't working then replace the tan/brown clutch switch. If the cruise control isn't working, then replace the red clutch switch.

I also couldn't find the tan/brown clutch switch on PP, so I just picked it up at the dealer.

[Wayne 962]

Originally Posted by thstone

I also couldn't find the tan/brown clutch switch on PP, so I just picked it up at the dealer.

Hmm, I typed "Boxster clutch pedal switch" into the search engine and it came right up:



-Wayne

[UNYboater]

After reading this project & several threads, I still have questions.
Here's my situation: '01 S & I don't believe I have the upgraded mechanism. Yesterday, my key was tough to get into the slot. When in, it turned & the car started but the spring didn't pull it back from 'Start' to 'Run' like it had before. Also, when shut off, I had to hold it all the way to the detent that allows the key to be removed (& the electronics to shut off). It's like the springs let loose & the detents are off.
Are the springs & detent mechanisms in the replaceable portion of the old mechanism (Part # 4A0-905-849-B-M56 on Pelican)? Or are they in the main mechanism meaning that I need to replace the whole thing?
Either way, it appears to me that I can reuse the existing tumbler & keys...correct?
Thanks!

[Pinarelloman]

Mate, I have exactly the same symptoms that happened the other day. No replies to your post.
What did you do?

[UNYboater]

Originally Posted by Pinarelloman

Mate, I have exactly the same symptoms that happened the other day. No replies to your post.
What did you do?

I actually bought the switch portion at my local Autozone (Part # LS901...in stock in my little 30,000 person town!), swapped it out in about 35 minutes & it has been working perfectly ever since! I would have ordered it from Pelican but it was dead & my son was getting married the next day; I needed my car!

[Dand4444]

Thread seems a bit cold. Having a hard time removing the key cylinder. Added some lube and the key can turn 360 now but not come out. Any recommendations?

[tcora]

Originally Posted by Dand4444

Thread seems a bit cold. Having a hard time removing the key cylinder. Added some lube and the key can turn 360 now but not come out. Any recommendations?

Why are you trying to remove the cylinder itself?

[Dand4444]

Both the mechanism and the switch seemed to be going bad.

[tcora]

Curious - did you try just replacing the switch to see if that solved your problem?

[Dand4444]

No, I considered it but since the vehicle was old and the symptoms were both electrical and mechanical, it seemed the best approach.

The only issue was the lock cylinder and a friend popped it out first try - the jerk, could at least pretended to struggle with it. It works great. I thought I had a wiper issue but now they work too.

[M Baldwin]

Originally Posted by Dand4444

No, I considered it but since the vehicle was old and the symptoms were both electrical and mechanical, it seemed the best approach.

The only issue was the lock cylinder and a friend popped it out first try - the jerk, could at least pretended to struggle with it. It works great. I thought I had a wiper issue but now they work too.

Reminds me (sort of randomly) of when I was into choppers. My friend's '76 HD had a crankshaft nut that REFUSED to come off . We tried everything (experienced mechanics, mind you, not hacks). Impact? Nope. Four foot breaker? Nope. One evening, we're chilling around the shop drinking beer and talking bikes. A friend visiting from out of town is sitting on a stool next to the bike, picks up a wrench, and with zero effort, busts off the nut. A few jaws had to be picked up off the floor.

[tcora]

Originally Posted by Dand4444

No, I considered it but since the vehicle was old and the symptoms were both electrical and mechanical, it seemed the best approach.

The only issue was the lock cylinder and a friend popped it out first try - the jerk, could at least pretended to struggle with it. It works great. I thought I had a wiper issue but now they work too.

Outstanding! Glad to see you are back on the road...

[RaaayC2004]

My 2004 Boxster S (Mfg. 09/03 Uusikaupunki) does not have the "redesigned" lock cylinder as many sites suggest it should as a MY2004 Boxster. You will want to confirm the part in your Boxster if you are near the MY2003/MY2004 boundary.

Seeking to replace the ignition switch, which houses the electrical components and the all-important spring, I found that I needed to keep it simple with the "old style" ignition switch to match the Audi switch that I removed from the car. Yes, the switch I removed from my Boxster has the 4 Audi rings and was probably first used in the A100.

The electrical function of the Audi switch is still reliable but the spring has broken through its plastic anchor and no longer reliably returns the switch to the RUN position after the key is released from START.

My first clue to the spring's broken anchor was that my headlights did not always work after starting the car. In analyzing the problem, I discovered that my wrist was, by muscle memory I guess, moving the key back toward RUN but not always hitting the mark as the spring did when it was functioning as designed.