Basically yes.

Sorry that sounded alot more harsh than I meant it to but that so sounded like a sales pitch. Glad you are now getting tech support.

Yes you can! Crank + cam trigger combination, that is found within the choices, will let you run fully sequential injection and direct fire ignition with the Sport 2000 system.

60-2 +1, 36-1 + 1, are considered "motronic triggers", or missing tooth triggers, using a cam ref.

Any even number of teeth on the crank over 6, 12, 18, 24, would be a multitooth setup, and would require a single pulse on the cam.

Then we have the "standard triggers", even number of teeth (equal to the half the # of cylinders) on the crank + 1 on the cam. This would be Standard Trigger Full Cycle, providing info to run sequential/direct fire. Then you have the "half cycle" which would be something like an S3 or S4 with flying magnets on the crank, and the last is the "no home", this would be the OEM distributor with same number of teeth as you have cylinders.

Wasnt selling them, just showing them as examples of what can be used with confidence in these applications.

Hope it didnt sound like i was selling.

Sorry again you definately know your stuff about this hope you stick around to add insight to those who need help.

No problem! If anybody wants to start a Haltech tech/tips/troublshooting thread by all means go right ahead and PM me when you do.

good info

Hi,
Don't know if this will help or not. It's been a while since I did this and my memory ain't what it used to be!

On the back of my Scavenger pump on the Driver's side CAM there is the pulley for the air pump. I drilled and tapped that for a bolt. RED loktited a bolt in there at the proper point for timing. I drilled the housing around it for the cam sensor and set the gap and that was how I solved this conundrum.

I skimmed the thread, hope that was the question at hand?

I took a zillion pix but didn't document this for some strange reason...

wow looking at the photos you have done some major work on your motor, do u have a build thread (i wasn't able to find one) or do u plan to make an post build thread. be awesome to here what all you have done with your motor.

Hi, thanx!

No plans of a build thread. It seems like you're never done! Always something else to do for some reason.

You got that right I started a build thread and got slammed by someone that I didn't expect cause it was taking to long, it really does seem like there is something always next.

No doubt! I started years ago and haven't really worked on it for at least a year.

I still have ECU wires hanging loose through out the car for things like wheel sensors, different map, different boost settings, nitrous :D, hidden kill switch and various other things.

I've been just happy that almost everything works that I've moved on to other projects.

Subscribed!
Going M600 & 3.2 Manifold soon, have the M600, just need to make the harness, any thoughts?

Thanks,
Dave

If you're really good at wiring you could do it yourself. I'm above average at wiring, I built the harness myself, and I wish I paid Motec to build it.

I spent about $1200 in material to build the harness for my M600. I checked, double checked, and triple checked and I still made a couple of mistakes. I could have saved myself a lot of heart burn by shelling out the extra money for them to build it.

I put a bulk head connector at the fire wall to make pulling the engine easier. Even though I used very good DT gold plated connectors, I wonder if it doesn't add unnecessary risk for a bad connection.

Well I posted once and it disappeared but here it is again. I would like to see pics of this harness I am not being sarcastic at all but I can't imagine the components for an EFI harness costing that much, I used good stuff for my harness cleanup and upgrade to ATO fuses and dont think I spent more than 2-300 bucks 500 if you include I bought a new solder station for the work.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1283133717.jpg

Nice Job! But that's not the Harness he's talking about.

The EFI Harness does not exist on a 930 to cleanup. 930's don't have EFI.

Sorry, can't imagine too what on earth would make a harness cost 1200$. Did you use mil-spec connectors or something?

I make harnesses all the time (I install and tune EFI systems, specifically VEMS) and make harnesses out of silicone insulated wires, all new JPT connectors etc and it barely costs 200 in materials.


But regarding trigger setups. If you are going for the hassle and install crank trigger, why on earth would you want to install magnets? Use better sensor that don't need magnets, for example, Honeywell 1GT101 that is Hall sensor and requires nothing more than a bolt head or other metal tooth. Makes your life so much easier.

And I recommend multitooth trigger over "simple trigger" because multitooth is much more precise. It works without cam sync also, you just won't get sequential injection with out it. You can go semi-sequential, meaning firing injectors one-by-one, but they are not timed.

It is usually wiser to choose engine management based on how many sensors you won't have to swap on the engine and what it can do, instead of being forced to run certain sensors.

Best choice for 911 (at least with 9bolt cranks) is to use 964 flywheel that has 60-2 trigger arrangement, next to that is laser- or water-cut trigger wheels mounted to crank pulley (36-1, 60-2). It costs around 30$ to have it cut and find some VR sensor from ANY car that has it stock, you have a hard time spending over 100$ for crank trigger setup (that includes centering the trigger wheel to pulley by machinist).

I understand what harness he's talking about and I am just using a much bigger project as an example since I agree with raceboy I cant see how a smaller harness can cost that much even if you include trigger wheels and such.

Just the unterminated Tefzel wire harness was about $800. Then add a bunch of DTM connectors, one big DT bulkhead connector, a few other special connectors for injectors, lambda, boost control, etc, then throw in a bunch of shrink tubing and it was probably a bit more than $1200.


On the other hand, I did build this engine harness for a little over $100 which gets rid of all the stuff that the EFI handles:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1283165880.jpg

I would still like to see pics it looks like you do fantastic work. I understand wanting wiring that will last, but that wire you used will still be looking new long after the car has gone back to dust.