1st engine/trans drop - quick question

[b5aar]

Hi everyone,

Almost there. bumper off, on jack stands......Have everything disconnected underneath.....working topside now.

Rear swaybar looks tight in relation to trans mount....am i gonna be able to pull backward and get around it??

[Ronnie's.930]

No you won't , but the swaybar is easily removed . . .

[Hirevtuner]

I remove it and drop engine and trans down onto a dolly I made.
Cut out is for the floor jack. Under oil sump plate.

[totle]

Swaybar needs to be removed

[b5aar]

Thanks. Thought so. Will post pics when I get it out. Will be doing some upgrades and major minor"while I'm in there" work.

[gsxrken]

2 other hints-
Have a means to lift the car higher when you find the engine won't clear the bumper.
And make certain you disconnect a hard to see harness connector near the drivers shock. It runs to under the drivers seat but is difficult for a one man operation to see until its too late.

[Ken911]

make sure you move the passenger side e brake cable out of the way of the back up switch on the side of the tranny. really easy to break it otherwise. I pull it back and tye wrap it .

[b5aar]

Thanks for the good info guys. Much appreciated.

also....the jack adapter i bought from pelican doesnt seem to fit in a stable way...anyone use this before that can give some guidance

[Ken911]

the pin is designed for a tight fit to your floor jack however if it does not fit you can just drill a hole in the top of the jack and in the adapter and run a bolt through it. I bought that blue AC hydraulic jack from here and the pin is a different size to I drilled the hole larger then ran a bolt through it. the adapter works great because as you are raising or lowering it you can change the angle

[b5aar]

Pin fits tight in my jack. I was concerned with how it fits the contour of the engine sump

[Ken911]

then your good to go it fits perfectly but the long side bars will not work if you have headers. it's at the center of gravity of the engine and tranny.

[b5aar]

Like this?headers are off (long story)

[b5aar]

I think I have it backwards. Air injection system is in the way. Gonna cut it away now.

[Hirevtuner]

Originally Posted by b5aar

Thanks for the good info guys. Much appreciated.

also....the jack adapter i bought from pelican doesnt seem to fit in a stable way...anyone use this before that can give some guidance

If you look at the dolly i made this is what most of us use.
Makes life easy.
Cheers

[b5aar]

engine and trans are down. everything good.GSXRken....you called it. Need to get the car higher to clear. with a low profile jack it would've worked.attached pictures for Jack adapter for future reference.

[b5aar]

need to get some Jack plates and 2 bottle jacks and do this right. I'm kind of in a German hillbilly mood and that usually gets me in trouble.thanks again to everyone for postIng and helping me out.

[gsxrken]

LOL- I only warned you because when your jack is under the engine, not everyone has that second or third jack.
Like the 'cuda peeking in the last picture, too!

[b5aar]

Everything out. a little hillbilly stuff. I used what i had available.

1 thing i missed was a fuel line bracket connected to the air pump and a bracket in lower left corner. Transmission in a bin ready to go out for service.

My rough (haaa) plan:

New Turbo, trans rebuild,oil leak fix , valve adjust , starter, clutch, A C line, might do rims restore, C v joints, some suspension, delete old air injection emissions, new injectors, injector blocks, A f R sensor install, adjustable WUR, fix auxiliary air valve, set fuel control pressures, clean up tins, clean and d grease a bunch of stuff , that's most of it.

Clutch/flywheel looks decent. I think i will reuse.

[b5aar]

Oh man....finally got it together....11 months!!!!!....sheeeeze

It runs!!!! .....and....after a few minor spark plug and fuel line adjustments...it runs on all cylinders!!

In between Had a kid go to college ....neck operation....England trip (sons soccer team)....new job(flying to Germany every month..think i would learn me sumthin)

I did the following in a semi skilled manner:

New Turbo (ebay LDZ), trans rebuild(outsourced),oil leak fix , sc cams install , New KEP clutch, A C lines, rim dis-assembly partial restore, gas tank screen and o-ring seal,C v joint, heater hose fix, delete old air injection emissions, new injectors, injector blocks, A f R sensor install, powder coat tins- valve covers-fan assembly, engine compartment seal, crank seals, temp sensor, breather hoses, associated gaskets o-rings etc, clean and d grease a bunch of stuff , that's most of it.

Special thanks to this forum and our host for technical and parts support.

Very special thanks to Chris (and Mike!) at Turbokraft for their patience and detailed directions on the phone. I'm a customer for life.

Need a little help with what I'm seeing in Off boost AFRs......1-3k rpm
as far as K Jet knowledge - Have gauge kit, havnt used it yet...basic understanding from Probst and Weber books

Heres what I have:
K- lambda CIS - everything there except air injection. Turbokraft IC kit
MSD 6al2 but only using it for ignition source
SC cams
LDZ with bigger cold side and wheel
Warms up good, idles good.....

Is lean from off idle to onset of boost
Few road blasts today...40s in MD partly sunny
Idle 14 AFR
1 - 3k rpm 14 - 14.5 AFR .....sluggish
3 -5k rpm (boost)11 - 12 AFR feels strong

I also cruised around while engine still warming up (not totally cold)when AFRs were in the 12s keeping rpm below 2500....and as expected engine felt like a healthy NA. I believe CIS may have been still using open loop and AAV supplemental?...hence richer AFRs?

What can I do to improve the 1 - 3k rpm mixture?

[Ronnie's.930]

What you are seeing for AFR at idle and 1-3K RPM is exactly what you get with Lambda (and you will sometimes see AFRs closer to 15). Like you have seen, this is a little too lean for perfect running, but was set that way for the purpose of USA emissions requirements. There is really nothing you can do about it if you keep the O2 sensor plugged in. If you are willing, and have an adjustable WUR/CPR, you can run without the O2 sensor plugged in, and adjust your control pressures to get all of the desired AFRs that you want (within the limits of the system, of course).