What engine temperature sensor is best used with MS3 Pro? The GM Closed Element CLT Sensor? Is it best to locate this in the left or right cam cover?
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-connector/

Or would it be better to use a Cylinder Head Sensor,

http://www.*********************.com/Cylinder-Head-Temperature-Sensor-914-912E-70-76-p23355.html

Thanks

John

I'm using a bosch oil temp sensor in the drivers side cam cover. I have to dig up around my notes for the part number and the temp/resistance curve.

I'm using the CLT in the crankcase breather cover in place of the thermovalve. It gets splashed with oil there. Can't tell you how it works as its still in progress.

Thanks Guys slowly starting to piece together this puzzle.

Mine is there as well. Works great no issues.

I was also thinking of making up a modular Megasquirt wiring loom, using these bulkhead connectors to go between the engine bay and the car interior. Yes the VR wire has a shield and I asked DIYAutoTune if the short hop over the bulkhead connector would compromise the shielding. They replied that it should be no problem at all. I was actually thinking of using 2 connectors, splitting the higher voltage from the lower voltage lines.

If you're worried about noise, use the inner pins for the VR so the surrounding wires act as a Faraday cage if you will

Found this great site for wiring harness construction. Hope it helps someone.
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

Regards

John

John. Great link. Thanks. I have not seen that one before. EXCELLENT information on there.

Hi Guys

I have been using a GSF Crank pulley for my SDS EFI system. With no issues.
When I bought the crank pulley I purchased a 36-1 trigger wheel. It's the wheel with a single set of mounting holes. I remember reading an old thread that identified 2 different trigger wheels. One was for a DTA EFI and the other was for Megasquirt. There seemed to be a limitation with the Megasquirt trigger wheel of 11 degrees. Was this limitation due to the EDIS controller.
Will I have any issues setting this up in MS3 Pro?

Also where should the missing tooth be located? To the right of TDC as shown in picture? I believe the VR sensor will be located 50 degrees ATDC based on MS3Pro manual?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480391680.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480391680.JPG

Thanks john

Doesnt matter where it is, as it can be changed in tunerstudio. You will want to verify with a timing light.

I am using this mil spec one. The heavy heat shrink 90 was about 75.00 if I remember. :rolleyes:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480420287.PNG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480420342.png

Great info! Except....I HATE cable ties. Too many times I've reached into an engine compartment and had my arms cut to ribbons by the jagged pointy ends of improperly cut or baked hard and broken cable ties.

Waxed lacing cord is still far superior IMNSHO. A little more fiddly and time consuming, but none of the above problems, easy to remove, and you can make some fantastic tight wiring harnesses with it.

Maybe I'm grumpy 'cos I have a gurt big rip up my forearm right now from this...:mad:

Just wondered if 2 wire 18 GA AWG shielded wire would be suitable for both the crank and cam sensors?

Sure

I think you will find that the Sierra Madre 914 sensor that you referenced is really a switch, not a sensor, so that won't work for you.

There is a sensor from the 911 3.2 that will work (930-606-915-00), but it is not very convenient to adapt, unless you have started with a 3.2L engine.

People who have chosen to use the breather location have used Bosch Sensor# 0280130037.

I have used GM/DELPHI sensor 12146312 for over ten years now. I cut the brass sensor tip off and extracted the sensor. I soldered a two-wire lead to it, and epoxied it to the number three cylinder head fin. I used the alternator lead hole in the fan shroud to route the wire to a connector on my wiring loom.

I also tried the breather location with the Bosch/Audi sensor, which is beautiful from a connection standpoint. From a control standpoint, it was not acceptable, so I abandoned it. I experienced these problems:

1. The oil warms up too slowly, so dec'ing out the start enrichment fuel is overly sensitive, making for rough drive-away from a cold start. If you get it right at warm ambient temperatures, it is wrong at cold ones, and visa-versa.

2. The breather stays warm too long, making hot restarts crank too long. Again, you can fix this for long hot soaks, but then short ones are messed up, or visa-versa.

Subscribed ;)

You can make your own cylinder head temperature sensor for MS. It consists of an GE NTC thermistor (AL03006-1847-76-G1, 3K ohm@ 25*C) and a 5/16 or 3/8" terminal ring. I made this for my installation and it works good. It is installed under the fan shroud at the front corner of cylinder #3 and secured with the shroud bolt, clamping the terminal ring against the cam tower. It is made by carefully and lightly crimping the thermistor glass body to the wire terminal ring. Then apply JB weld to the crimp area to ensure the element is secured to the terminal. Then install heat shrink to the wire leads to insulate them. Bend the leads as needed and solder wire leads. Insulate the solder joints and then heat shrink the wiring to the terminal ring for support.

The sensor must be calibrated in TS. Here are the calibration numbers I used:

33* - 8200 ohms
77* - 3000 ohms
212* - 276 ohms

Buy at least three thermistors so if you bust one trying to crimp it in the terminal ring you have spares. They can be purchased at DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

Prior to starting when cold, the IAT and the CLT read exactly the same for my installation. I cut off WUE by 125* F in TS. CLT generally reads 140 - 160* depending on temperature and driving conditions when warmed up. Hot starts with heat soak can show 190 - 220* depending on how hot it is.

John, I would think most of the devices you have for your SDS system could be used for the MS3 setup. I would think these parts could be adapted to work. Philip
throttle position sensor
intake air temp sensor
cylinder head temp sensor
map sensor
coil packs
crank position sensor/pickup/pulley

Hey Phillip

Yes, I figure I can re-use the throttle position sensor, intake air temp sensor, cylinder head temp sensor, and map sensor. I am planning on going to coil on plug ignition.
I also want to utilize sequential ignition and fuel. So I will have to replace the crank sensor and add a cam sensor.

Picked up some to wire shielded cable for the crank and cam sensors this weekend

Regards

John