Sabeo's 80SC Engine Rebuild

[jpahemi]

A rebuilt engine is a thing of beauty!!!

jp

[sabeo.m]

Originally Posted by mca

Awesome! Well done!

Looks fantastic ... are you going to crank it up this weekend?

THANKS!! Yep I'm going to try to fire it up. I'm going to try to take video footage as well. I have a few friends stopping by my place tomorrow to give me a hand taking the engine off the stand. Then if all goes according to plan, by Wednesday night i should have it back in the car. I gotta buy oil What did you use?

[mca]

I have been using Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20/50 for a couple of years now. Stuck with it after the rebuild too.

The some local shops use it, a lot of people on the forum use it, and it is readily available.

I did get some of the GM EOS stuff just for the first crank. The bottle says not to use as an oil additive but it seems to be a common practice. Pricey though!

[YTNUKLR]

Looks *really* good! Nice job. What did you do with the fan shroud-repaint?

I do think that your injector sleeves aren't inserted deeply enough, however...I know it's hard to press those things in there but they should be flush with the intake runner.

[mca]

Originally Posted by YTNUKLR

Looks *really* good! Nice job. What did you do with the fan shroud-repaint?

I do think that your injector sleeves aren't inserted deeply enough, however...I know it's hard to press those things in there but they should be flush with the intake runner.

+1 Sleeves need to go way down. There is a lip on the intake runner below which the sleeve will fit - the lip is used to stake the sleeves in place. I didn't stake mine though

[sabeo.m]

Originally Posted by YTNUKLR

Looks *really* good! Nice job. What did you do with the fan shroud-repaint?

I do think that your injector sleeves aren't inserted deeply enough, however...I know it's hard to press those things in there but they should be flush with the intake runner.

Thanks! I'm glad you guy's pointed that out, I was curious about the injector sleeves. They are a pain to get in!

The fan shroud I found on ebay for a deal, my shroud was busted up. It actually belongs to a 84 Carrera and was black. I painted it guards red. I hope the paint doesn't bubble and flake off due to the heat. I guess I gotta keep my fingers crossed.

[sabeo.m]

I got the engine off the stand without any incidents. I made the mistake of filling up the tank before dropping the engine back in March. I used Shell V Power, but I think I'm going to pump the gas out and put fresh gas in. I heard gas has about a 6 month self life. It may be ok, but I don't want to chance it...

[Aurel]

Originally Posted by sabeo.m

Thanks! I'm glad you guy's pointed that out, I was curious about the injector sleeves. They are a pain to get in!

The fan shroud I found on ebay for a deal, my shroud was busted up. It actually belongs to a 84 Carrera and was black. I painted it guards red. I hope the paint doesn't bubble and flake off due to the heat. I guess I gotta keep my fingers crossed.

To repaint my fan shroud, I have used krylon plastic paint spray can, and so far so good (~ 2,000 miles on the rebuild now).

Aurel

[sabeo.m]

Originally Posted by Aurel

To repaint my fan shroud, I have used krylon plastic paint spray can, and so far so good (~ 2,000 miles on the rebuild now).

Aurel

I used a can I purchased from paintscratch.com that was just lying around, it's super high quality but I'm not sure how it will hold up against high temperatures. If it does turn into a mess then I will use a can of Krylon the next time I drop the engine. Krylon paint is good stuff!!

[otto in norway]

Well done!

I just want to give you a tip on oil:
For the initial start, and following short runs, you´ll have to replace the oil many times. (follow wayne´s instructions) That´s why I went with a cheaper 10W40 mineral oil for these first two oil changes. It is better to use a thinner oil like this for the first starts, because you need a good flow when the engine is cold. (critical minutes)
But now I´m running on a slightly more expensive 20W50 mineral oil for classic engines, which helped the oil pressure when warm. (The brand is Statoil, but others will be fine)
Next year when the engine is completely run in, I´ll switch to shell Racing 10W60.


Oh, and stock up on oil filters..! I forgot that, and had to wait two agonizing days...

Good luck to ya!

[sabeo.m]

Originally Posted by otto in norway

Well done!

I just want to give you a tip on oil:
For the initial start, and following short runs, you´ll have to replace the oil many times. (follow wayne´s instructions) That´s why I went with a cheaper 10W40 mineral oil for these first two oil changes. It is better to use a thinner oil like this for the first starts, because you need a good flow when the engine is cold. (critical minutes)
But now I´m running on a slightly more expensive 20W50 mineral oil for classic engines, which helped the oil pressure when warm. (The brand is Statoil, but others will be fine)
Next year when the engine is completely run in, I´ll switch to shell Racing 10W60.


Oh, and stock up on oil filters..! I forgot that, and had to wait two agonizing days...

Good luck to ya!

Thanks Otto! I actually stocked up on the cheaper oil as well as the good stuff, so I should be all good... Thanks for the tip!

[sabeo.m]

here are a few pictures of the final stages. I got the engine back in, I have to attached the clutch assembly, heater hoses, drive shafts and make all the engine attachments in the engine bay. Hopefully if all goes well, I will be able to start engine tonight!

[mca]

DUDE! LOOKING GOOD!

I wanted to tell you that I failed to connect my SSI outlet to the heater box on the starter side (actually, my old one was destroyed so I just ripped it out and didn't have an extra hose). Anyhow, my starter wires got fried b/c they either rested on the top of the SSI or the heat coming off of them was enough to catch them on fire. Probably came in contact with the SSI. Anyhow, don't make that mistake! Yours look like they are ok from you pics - mine had a lot of slack.

When are you going to crank it?

[sabeo.m]

Originally Posted by mca

DUDE! LOOKING GOOD!

I wanted to tell you that I failed to connect my SSI outlet to the heater box on the starter side (actually, my old one was destroyed so I just ripped it out and didn't have an extra hose). Anyhow, my starter wires got fried b/c they either rested on the top of the SSI or the heat coming off of them was enough to catch them on fire. Probably came in contact with the SSI. Anyhow, don't make that mistake! Yours look like they are ok from you pics - mine had a lot of slack.

When are you going to crank it?

I'll make sure to double check the starter cables. I installed a new clutch cable last night, it took me awhile to attach and readjust the cable. I was having difficulty releasing the pin bracket from the cable clevis. I finally manage to do it without breaking any thing. I am able to depress the clutch pedal down to the floor activating the clutch but it's so much stiffer than before. I guess it could be from all the new clutch parts. Can you snap a picture of your oil line's attached to your thermostat to the engine and oil tank?

[mca]

Originally Posted by sabeo.m

I'll make sure to double check the starter cables. I installed a new clutch cable last night, it took me awhile to attach and readjust the cable. I was having difficulty releasing the pin bracket from the cable clevis. I finally manage to do it without breaking any thing. I am able to depress the clutch pedal down to the floor activating the clutch but it's so much stiffer than before. I guess it could be from all the new clutch parts. Can you snap a picture of your oil line's attached to your thermostat to the engine and oil tank?

The best pic that I have available right now is on this page: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=399544&page=12

[sabeo.m]

well guy's i was able to start the engine last night, it fired right up. the green oil light went out after 30 sec. i gave it about 3-4 15 sec. cranks to make sure the oil pressure was building up correctly. everything was going smoothly, installed the fuel relay and wiring harness to the CD box. I turn the engine over and gave it some gas, by the 3rd attempt the engine roared to life. After about a minute i had a huge oil leak! My Dad and I mistakenly put a washer that was too big on the right side tensioner oil line. So, we shut the engine off and quickly corrected the problem and re-started the engine and ran it for 20 Min. Man I tell you, if I hadn't quit smoking I would of gone through a whole pack during that time!

here is a link to my start up, please tell me what you guy's think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpduREQ4T5Y

I still gotta adjust the fuel mixture, i believe it's way to rich. i set the timing and was able to get the engine to idle at 900 +/-50 but noticed that my throtle adjustment screw is completely closed. Also after letting the car cool for a bit and then restarting it, it seemed like it wanted to die out. i gave it a few rev's and heard a few pop's, any thought's?

[mca]

Originally Posted by sabeo.m

I still gotta adjust the fuel mixture, i believe it's way to rich. i set the timing and was able to get the engine to idle at 900 +/-50 but noticed that my throtle adjustment screw is completely closed. Also after letting the car cool for a bit and then restarting it, it seemed like it wanted to die out. i gave it a few rev's and heard a few pop's, any thought's?

Congrats!

You say you gave it a few revs. So you gave it throttle and the engine responded? Or did you give it throttle and you got some popping?

My guess would be that the timing is retarded or the mixture is too lean - that is where I would start.

I was messing with mine last Saturday. Before I put it away for the night I had set the timing to TDC b/c I was doing some testing. It was running great after the adjustment but when I tried to start it the next morning my RPMs would only go to 200, I couldn't give it throttle, and the LM-1 was reading 18 AFR which is way lean. As soon as I set the timing back to 5 (+-2) it came back to life.

[sabeo.m]

Originally Posted by mca

Congrats!

You say you gave it a few revs. So you gave it throttle and the engine responded? Or did you give it throttle and you got some popping?

My guess would be that the timing is retarded or the mixture is too lean - that is where I would start.

I was messing with mine last Saturday. Before I put it away for the night I had set the timing to TDC b/c I was doing some testing. It was running great after the adjustment but when I tried to start it the next morning my RPMs would only go to 200, I couldn't give it throttle, and the LM-1 was reading 18 AFR which is way lean. As soon as I set the timing back to 5 (+-2) it came back to life.

Gave it a few rev's and got some popping... I'm gonna work on the mixture tonight.

[otto in norway]

Congratulations!
Nice feeling, is it not?

I must say, however, that I thought I could hear a bit much valve ticking noise here, but it might just be the video (audio) quality.
The popping, as you call it... -Do you mean backfire, or pops in the exhaust? -Or something else..?

[sabeo.m]

Originally Posted by otto in norway

Congratulations!
Nice feeling, is it not?

I must say, however, that I thought I could hear a bit much valve ticking noise here, but it might just be the video (audio) quality.
The popping, as you call it... -Do you mean backfire, or pops in the exhaust? -Or something else..?

Otto, I didn't notice Valve ticking, but didn't have a chance last night to run the engine and listen carefully. I was busy adjusting my parking brake, re-attaching the bumper and so on. It was late into the morning and the sun was beginning to rise