Cam Sprocket Bolt Removal

[Jim Moore]

Pull the starter off and let it hang. It's a lot easier to see what's going on in there.

[Guest24]

Here's the only flywheel hole I see. It's at the 2 o'lock position in the photo. Try 4th gear rather than 6th.

[shreddr]

there is only 1 TDC, and I have used an 8mm L shaped torx wrench with great success as a TDC lock tool

[tjs]

in your 1st pix the hole you want is partially hidden by your main starter cable. cable needs to be pushed aside then you will see the correct hole. Make sure the cable is behind the tool you made. That way it will go far enough in to go through the hole in the clutch carrier. If you happen to remove the cable from the starter.... insulate the cable terminal with electrical tape. (IT'S HOT) and will create big sparks if it touches any ground. tjs

[81Forest]

I tried to make a TDC locating pin/tool without success, I'm looking forward to hearing how you get yours to work. Here is a link to some photos of a home-made tool (you've probably already seen this):
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_tdc_mandrel.pdfEdit: oops, I see that you've already linked to this page. Carry on then.

[Phil Y]

Almost ashamed to admit this one but I will for the sake of someone else faced with a similar situation: had a real DUH! moment last night thinking about this issue: my clutch isn't slipping, I simply had not taken up the drivetrain lash! DUH!! So while my wife was applying the rear brake mightily, the engine turned a little bit taking up the lash! Confirmed that this was the case this morning. Will try it again after I get a proper extension for the busted nut remover. The saga continues.

@Shreddr: don't know how you got the torx in as there is less than 2" of clearance between the airbox and back of the housing. Was your bike disassembled at the time?

[shreddr]

Originally Posted by Phil Y

@Shreddr: don't know how you got the torx in as there is less than 2" of clearance between the airbox and back of the housing. Was your bike disassembled at the time?

I don't know how different the R11S clearance compared to the R12S but it was a tight fit that took a little finagling. There was no way the BMW tool was going in without removing the airbox, which is why I used the Torx. I also used a dental mirror and flashlight so I knew exactly when the holes were lined up and then just probed until it went in!

yes bradz, you heard me right!

[81Forest]

I'm about to purchase some Lennie's Sprockets, curious to know how your repair is going Phil Y. Best of luck!

Shreddr, Dental mirror, of course!! That is something my toolbox is missing.

[tjs]

this is worse than a friday soap opera. Phil have you removed that cam bolt yet? tjs

[Rick Lee]

I'm still in the middle of this job, so I'll report on how I removed the bolts. The engine just turned no matter what we did. I had a buddy sit on the rear pillon, in first gear, with break pedal depressed - engine just turned. So we finally stuck a looooonnnng 6mm hex wrench in the flywheel inspection hole and that locked the engine. Then the bolts came out very easily. Noise was not bad all, nothing like I was expecting.

[Phil Y]

Originally Posted by tjs

this is worse than a friday soap opera. Phil have you removed that cam bolt yet? tjs

I know the feeling. I haven't ridden for almost this whole month. First got slammed at work, then had a major project for a class I'm taking due yesterday, another one due this Wed. Heck, I haven't seen one Olympic event! In between, had to go to Sears twice to get busted nut extractors (first one didn't fit on the extension), to Lowes for appropriate Dremel bits, spent mucho time carefully Dremeling and have finally gotten close to getting the extractor over the bolt head. Tried to capture all metal filings by stuffing an oily rag under the sprocket but . . . SOON! I promise!! Just gotta find more than 30 minutes at a time here and there! You guys will defintely be the first to know!

[81Forest]

I'm still in the middle of this job, so I'll report on how I removed the bolts. The engine just turned no matter what we did. I had a buddy sit on the rear pillon, in first gear, with break pedal depressed - engine just turned. So we finally stuck a looooonnnng 6mm hex wrench in the flywheel inspection hole and that locked the engine. Then the bolts came out very easily. Noise was not bad all, nothing like I was expecting.

Interesting. I will be trying this next week when my sprockets arrive. With the hex wrench in the flywheel inspection hole, was it just jammed against the outer teeth on the flywheel to keep it from turning? Glad it worked, thanks for the info.

[Rick Lee]

I couldn't see anything at all in that hole. I just knew, once the wrench moved in a few inches, I was probably good to go and it worked.

[ROXTR]

I had asked earlier but haven't got a response, but did anyone else have a Torx head bolt securing the cam sprocket?

[signit98]

Originally Posted by ROXTR

I had asked earlier but haven't got a response, but did anyone else have a Torx head bolt securing the cam sprocket?

I think they all do? At least on the ones I have done so far, it was all Torx.

[Rick Lee]

Yes, mine is torx.

[PFFOG]

Another old trick to lock the motor, is to get the piston on the compression stroke, and then feed some cotton rope (clothes line) in the spark plug hole. I have used that trip on other motors a few times.

[RBMann]

I always use 6th gear and the rear brake, not 1st gear.

[Phil Y]

Originally Posted by Rick Lee

I'm still in the middle of this job, so I'll report on how I removed the bolts. The engine just turned no matter what we did. I had a buddy sit on the rear pillon, in first gear, with break pedal depressed - engine just turned. So we finally stuck a looooonnnng 6mm hex wrench in the flywheel inspection hole and that locked the engine. Then the bolts came out very easily. Noise was not bad all, nothing like I was expecting.

Rick, see my post #106, above. To take out the drivetrain lash, put the trans into 5th or 6th gear and turn the driven wheel backwards until the engine starts to turn. Then locking the rear wheel using the brake will lock the engine. the correct hole to lock the engine is a bit higher and further in, in front of the airbox. See posts 100 and 104, above.

@ signit98: mine is definitely a hex (v Torx) head. Stock replacements are also hex heads.

[ROXTR]

Thanks for the replies. As for a mini review of the sprockets, I like them. I've also got Lennie's InDuct with a UNI filter, Y-pipe with Leo Vince can, No CCP, and a few other odds and ends. The sprockets perform as advertised, more low/mid range grunt and better throttle response at the expense of a few ponies up top. The power does seem to taper off around 7k rpm, whereas before it would pull through redline. However I can accelerate out of turns turns with more gusto than before. I think once I purchase a PCIII I'll be even happier. 12.5:1 pistons could be my winter project .