2000 R1100S Driveline Issue

[Dana in Philly]

I'll try that first. Thanks.

Originally Posted by tjs

Put a rag around the clutch handle and rubber grip. Pull handle back against the grip. Tie it off with Zip tie/ string/heavy rubber band etc. let bike set at least overnight. Cut zip tie and see if clutch release point feels better. 2cnts from tjs

[Dana in Philly]

tjs' trick worked. Ragged and zip-tied it to the bar for a couple days, and clutch action is fine now, no pulling with the clutch lever in. Engine sounds fine. I'll have to take it for a shakedown run, spin it the eff up and see if anything in the driveline detonates.

So, thoughts after doing this for the first time:

- Previously I've changed fluids and the odd sensor or two, mounted system cases, stuff like that, but never dug in this deep into a bike.

- I found that I really enjoyed working with the torque wrenches. The Home Depot Husky brand inch-pound unit was great for the small stuff, and the 20-110 ft.-lb. unit good for the rest. For many of the fasteners, the manual's torque settings were in fact lighter than what I would have guessed, had I been doing it by hand feel. So I guess I learned something about fasteners and threads, and that my natural instinct is to overtorque.

- Hoses: meh. Not much fun.

- What was the total spend? From the 4/15/17 tow truck to the 6/2/18 parts run to Montgomeryville Cycle: just under $3,100.00 in parts, supplies and necessary tools. A couple of jobs I postponed, to do in the upcoming winter off-season: fuel line quick disconnects; replacement brake hoses.

- I no longer trust the bike, of course. It'll have to earn back my trust, on progressively longer rides.

- Thanks again to everyone here for advice and support. See you on the road.

[Dana in Philly]

[punkassjim]

Took me about a week or two to trust the bike, first time I tore it down to the studs. Second time, only took me a few days to lose the anxiety. Don’t worry, you’ll stop tiptoeing around her in no time.

Congratulations! Job super well done!

[JimMoore]

Congrats. that thing looks great. You should be proud of yourself. that was a big project.

[spacewrench]

Originally Posted by JimMoore

Yeah, it's a driveline shock damper, kinda like the rubber chunks (the name escapes me) in the hub of a chain-drive bike. I had one spin on my R1100RS a few months ago, so I'm a little sensitive to it. I have a spare R1100S driveshaft in the garage. Let me know if you're interested.

ETA: Cush drive

I'm a new R1100S owner, and got curious about this (since I've seen the cush bumpers in various chain bikes in my past). I don't see anything obvious in the Clymer manual pictures, but the driveshaft (#28 at page 523) does have a two-concentric-shafts thing going on. Is the damper in the larger shell, and set to let the thinner part of the shaft rotate a little bit? Is it a disassemble-able part, or you have to replace the whole thing? (I don't need one yet, just wondering.)

[JimMoore]

The smaller piece fits into the larger piece and they're glued together with rubber. The rubber and / or glue occasionally shear and the big piece will spin but the small piece won't. It's a stupid design.

[spacewrench]

Originally Posted by JimMoore

It's a stupid design.

Well, at least I don't hear about that failing as much as the splines! Anyway, thanks for the info!

[parisbeauty]

Originally Posted by Dana in Philly

OK, since this thread is partly about images, some images. Here's the trans back from Anton Largiader with the new OEM input shaft and seals:



And here's a comparison between the old clutch plate and the new Beemershop one with extended hub:



And here's the purty new clutch housing (f/k/a flywheel):



Thrust plate:



And clutch housing cover:



Now, if you look at the housing cover, you see a little drilled out area around 2:30 in this image. Do they balance these things? The old part had drilled out areas too.

nicely

_______
Visit My Web: Paris Beauty

[bruincounselor]

Reviving an old thread as I do my own clutch replacement.

When I pulled the thrust plate and housing cover I noticed a lot of variation in the clutch contact surfaces. It's almost like debris got in there and ground them; the old clutch is at ~5.25mm so the rivets aren't the cause; it must have been something else. How smooth do these faces need to be with a new clutch. I'm pretty sure I know the answer ($$$).

Also, what is the service limit of the diaphragm?

Thanks for the suggestions. I attached a photo trying to capture the surface variation.

[RBMann]

Yes, probably need to replace all the clutch parts. The blueing is not good and if you lay a straight edge across the clutch surfaces they might not be flat anymore. Here is an old pic of mine in 2008. I know it will be a lot $$$ on an old bike. I am on my third clutch.

[Swamper]

That looks like normal wear but hard to say in a picture. I've always replaced all parts, I think most people do.

[Jay K.]

(Not that the mileage has any bearing on spline failure statistics).

Interesting comment...I thought I had read somewhere that if it hasn't happened by 50-60K then it's probably not going to happen.
Perhaps I misread something?

[JimMoore]

Originally Posted by Jay K.

Interesting comment...I thought I had read somewhere that if it hasn't happened by 50-60K then it's probably not going to happen.
Perhaps I misread something?

You're correct. 30K seemed to be the trouble number, although some went longer before they failed. I'd be feeling pretty good by 60K.

[Jay K.]

I'd be feeling pretty good by 60K.

My '05 Boxer Cup is at ~56,000, well over 30K of which I put on it.
Fingers crossed.

[sgoodwin]

Looks to me that tranny's coming apart. I wouldn't just put in a new clutch plate even with the extension, that shaft is toast. Killer report also Dana.

[JimMoore]

Originally Posted by Jay K.

My '05 Boxer Cup is at ~56,000, well over 30K of which I put on it.
Fingers crossed.

You can always just pull the starter, tie off the clutch lever and check the clutch disk for play.

The one in this video has some play. If I saw that at 10K miles I'd consider it bad. If It was at 50K miles I might write it off as normal wear. either way, it still has a way to go until it fails.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8ROeNglRts

[flatbutt]

When the Grand Poobah Razorback did mine he stressed that while you're in there replacing EVERYTHING is the right way to go. He does know some stuff.

[ckcarr]

Whatever happened to Dana in Philly? Did she give up on it all?