These Phillips screwdrivers SUCK!

[javadog]

Hey, feel free to shoot the messenger. I do this for a living, so when I tell you that there are ways to solve your problem, I'm not kidding. Phillips are not a one size, fits all application. It goes far beyond number one, number two and number three. I have literally hundreds of different bits and just as many screwdrivers. Some are better than others, but don't be surprised if the drivers outlast the screws. They are generally made of better steel than the screws and if you don't use one that fits well, you're in for trouble, if the guy that built your house used crappy screws.

[rfuerst911sc]

I used that exact brand and size to drive all the screws in my build of my two car man cave . I probably installed 2,000 to 3,000 screws with no issues . I used coarse thread bugle head drywall screws .

[Shaun @ Tru6]

^^^ those are fun to drive, nearly any bit sinks deep inside the + and locks in.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by javadog

Hey, feel free to shoot the messenger. I do this for a living, so when I tell you that there are ways to solve your problem, I'm not kidding.

I KNOW the way to solve my problem. It is to not buy any more Milwaukee driver bits. The point of my post is not to solve my problem, it is to warn others. These things suck. You may buy some new screws that they are compatible with, but the general work I do, and many of us do, involves many kinds of old screws and new screws. If you can’t “screw around” with a screwdriver that needs some special compatible screw, don’t buy these things.

[javadog]

OK, grumpy boy. My last bit of advice would be to try a cordless impact driver, you might be surprised at the difference those will make. I am particularly fond of one made by Ryobi.

[rwest]

I’ve had really good luck with the P2R style, especially for drywall screws. They kind of have a bulged portion that fits in nice.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by rwest

I’ve had really good luck with the P2R style, especially for drywall screws. They kind of have a bulged portion that fits in nice.

That's a typical drywall screw bit. That's why they worl so well, but try that with a sheet metal, it will cam out on ya if you fall asleep for just one moment.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by masraum

Interesting, I've learned some things today.

I'm pretty sure that I've seen "pozi" screws, but wasn't aware of the difference.
I've got Phillips II bits, but didn't know that's what they were called.

Phillips #2 bit isn't a Pozi driver.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=%2bkABuVQl&id=98BB6B73637F00D3B246031C760FA82BA0AF31F6&thid=OIP.-kABuVQlk8b9BKRDV0O8mQHaD4&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fbsfixings.uk%2fimages%2fpic tures%2fproduct%2fscrews%2fstainless-steel-screws-csk-pozi-self-tapper-(1200x630-ffffff).jpg%3fv%3d590b6ff9&exph=630&expw=1200&q=pozi+screw&simid=607988091350352772&selectedIndex=3&ajaxhist=0

Pozi screw head

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by javadog

OK, grumpy boy. My last bit of advice would be to try a cordless impact driver, you might be surprised at the difference those will make. I am particularly fond of one made by Ryobi.

I don't have a Ryobi. The one I use is a DeWalt. That would be the yellow and black one in the upper right corner of the photo of my workbench that I posted in an earlier thread. I've used it, and as I said in the OP, the Milwaukee bits suck, even using the impact driver.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by wdfifteen

I don't have a Ryobi. The one I use is a DeWalt. That would be the yellow and black one in the upper right corner of the photo of my workbench that I posted in an earlier thread. I've used it, and as I said in the OP, the Milwaukee bits suck, even using the impact driver.

Right tool for the right job. You are just using wrong bit for the screw you are trying to drive. Apex makes all sort of bits for various screws. I buy them from my industrial suppliers

I used to drive lots of screws for a living, now not so much anymore. When I taught Woodshop, screwing was one of my lessons (Different types of screws too of course)

[A930Rocket]

As mentioned earlier, I’d go with a Roberts or torx bit every time.

Who ever invented the straight slot screw should be shot. Well, shot before he invented it.

If something comes with a straight slot screw, I immediately throw it away and get a Phillips head screw to use.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Torx are awesome. More money but worth every penny.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

As mentioned earlier, I’d go with a Roberts or torx bit every time.

Who ever invented the straight slot screw should be shot. Well, shot before he invented it.

If something comes with a straight slot screw, I immediately throw it away and get a Phillips head screw to use.

My favorite are those long slotted screws used in electrical boxes in those old houses. I think I spend my youth taking out those damn things (and slipping along the way making it way longer then necessary) along with painted hinge screws. I should have been chasing pretty girls in college instead of taking out damn slotted screws.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by onewhippedpuppy

Torx are awesome. More money but worth every penny.

Square, Torx drive whatever they are or cost, its always worth it. We still have a small box or two Phillips head screws at our job sites. Usually Pan head sheet metal screws.

[sugarwood]

Is it common to use power tools on screws?
As someone who turns a couple of screws a season,
I always just use a screwdriver.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Is it common to use power tools on screws?
As someone who turns a couple of screws a season,
I always just use a screwdriver.

If I had to remove a screw that's more then 3/4" long, I get my power screwdriver. Screwdriver? Same as not walking 1/2 block to the 7/11. I am driving. this is America, damn it. we drive and stay fat.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by look 171

Right tool for the right job. You are just using wrong bit for the screw you are trying to drive.

I agree, it’s obviosly the wrong tool, because it doesn’t work, but it’s marked #2 Phillips, just like the ones marked #2 Phillips that don’tstrip out the heads. So how is one supposed to know it’s the wrong tool?

[look 171]

Originally Posted by wdfifteen

I agree, it’s obviosly the wrong tool, because it doesn’t work, but it’s marked #2 Phillips, just like the ones marked #2 Phillips that don’tstrip out the heads. So how is one supposed to know it’s the wrong tool?

They are two different type of bits, #2 is the size of the Phillips bit no matter which type. They are both very similar. One is slightly rounded like a bow, the other is the straight chamfer. that's the one you are looking for. If I remember, I will try and get you pics of both. I have to get out to the shop Thursday, will try to do it then.

[look 171]

https://allindustrial.com/wiha-76544-phillips-bits-2/?matchtype=b&network=o&device=c&adposition={adposition}&keyword=allindustrial&campaign=**LP%20DSA%20-%20All%20Pages&adgroup=All%20Pages&msclkid=f0c3b539dab5123a7fbbeec7830aceea&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20DSA%20-%20All%20Pages&utm_term=allindustrial&utm_content=All%20Pages

You want this with standard sheet metal screws or wood screws. We use these for general use unless we are hanging drywall.

We do small drywall or patch jobs now, but for that we use drywall specific bits in our drywall drivers.

[javadog]

A little bit of info on screw head types:

https://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/