This ****ing screw

[pmax]

Dremel a slot and jam a flat head in there.

Shouldn't need megatorque to loosen a 4 mm screw.

[Bill Douglas]

What I do as a first try in these instances is a bit of heat cycling with the Mapp torch, then get a new/clean Phillips bit and give it a whack with a hammer to seat it, then press hard down with the screw driver and turn it. Again, a good whack to seat the bit, and push down and turn.

[908/930]

I think that is directly attached to the valve in the shock, so hammering it is not a good idea.

[varmint]

Originally Posted by 908/930

I think that is directly attached to the valve in the shock, so hammering it is not a good idea.

this is what im worried about.

the Öhlins tech jackass still hasn't written back.

and im waiting for the snap on guy to come through town so i can buy the small left drill bit. living in the boonies sucks sometimes.

soon it will be a week stalled because of this ****ing thing.

[vash]

hey V.

i have been very successful with this type of extractor. you drill a tiny hole down the center, and i use a tap holder handle to twist the extractor in.

[908/930]

Keep it soaked with penetrating oil and gently heat and let cool and repeat, keep it below 180f, don't boil all the oil off, Let oil soak for day or two.

[LJ851]

Drill the entire head of the bolt off, there is too much grip on the taper of the bolt head to loosen it via the weak metal. Once the head is off the threaded portion should be very easy to unscrew with no load on it.

Ducati used a similar arrangement on oil and coolant covers on their engines. I have a lot of experience removing stuck ones.

[Eric Coffey]

Originally Posted by 908/930

Keep it soaked with penetrating oil and gently heat and let cool and repeat, keep it below 180f, don't boil all the oil off, Let oil soak for day or two.

^^^ If you want to use heat on it, a soldering iron is a good way to localize heat on small screws without torching any surrounding material.

I'd probably try a couple "friction enhancers" first (Screw Grab, folded foil, rubber band, etc.).

If still no joy, and no extractor bit small enough on hand, maybe dremel a slot for a flat head as mentioned.
Just be mindful not to scratch the knob by going too deep (might tape around the head prior).

Also, when dremeling small/delicate stuff, I use 3x readers as eye-pro.

[908/930]

Looking at the pic it looks like after soaking for a while you could try to tighten it, pretty sure if you can get oil in there once it moves you can loosen it, or it will break the head off.

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by 908/930

I think that is directly attached to the valve in the shock, so hammering it is not a good idea.

The whack wit the hammer is to seat the phillips bit as well as possible before turning.

[Bob Kontak]

I have about a 50% hit rate using 24 hour JB Weld and gluing the removing tool into the screw/bolt.

Use it more often with rounded allen wrench holes.

[varmint]

I've already tried the jb weld trick. this this is at most 4-5mm across. it will not hold.

the Öhlins guy wrote back. he's seeing if they have a spare knob.

[flipper35]

Originally Posted by vash

hey V.

i have been very successful with this type of extractor. you drill a tiny hole down the center, and i use a tap holder handle to twist the extractor in.

I broke three of those trying to get a bolt out of an intake manifold. With lots of penetrating oil overnight. Left hand bit did the job, mostly.

[vash]

Originally Posted by flipper35

I broke three of those trying to get a bolt out of an intake manifold. With lots of penetrating oil overnight. Left hand bit did the job, mostly.

true that/. intake manifold is a hardened fastener..some mild steel chingadero screw will be a vastly different animal.

[flipper35]

Regular steel bolt in aluminum sucks. It was to replace a thermostat. 2 day job that should have been 30 minutes.

[pmax]

Send it to a shop.

[varmint]

the snap on guy will be in town thursday. gonna talk to him about a left drill bit.

and heard back from the Öhlins tech. they have the knob in stock if i have to cut it off.

[varmint]

Originally Posted by pmax

Send it to a shop.

500lb motorcycle with the rear wheel, rear shock and drive shaft already off.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by flipper35

I broke three of those trying to get a bolt out of an intake manifold. With lots of penetrating oil overnight. Left hand bit did the job, mostly.

I've never had good luck with those. I wonder about them because as the thing bites and "screws in" to the hole that you just drilled, it also expands what's stuck into the hole that it's stuck in, which seems counter productive.

[john70t]

Originally Posted by masraum

I've never had good luck with those.

Neither have I. Wide threads, round edges, plus the taper just removes more material or cams out

The square drives or these seem to work better. Get good ones.