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I found the following. Not sure if it's got the same or less info/detail. https://www.theartnewspaper.com/2024/04/03/woodblock-print-forger-earl-marshawn-washington-sentenced |
Not as impressive as some of the other cool stuff here but I put a backyard gate up for a friend of mine.
If you're wondering about the hinge arrangement, I duplicated an older gate on the other side of the house; that's how a pro fence company did it, so that's what my friend wanted. (That missing piece at the bottom by the post will be a whimsical little door.) JFC! wood is expensive these days. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1721443618.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1721443618.jpg |
Nice work!
How are you finishing it? Some sort of waterproofing or sealing? |
Only problem with having the shop flatten the table top...
The drums are 50 grit... Getting the desired finish back takes a bunch of time.. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1721521452.jpg |
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Can’t they change belts and run it again?
The HS I worked at had a small Timesaver and it was pretty quick to change belts over. Some of the more sophisticated and expensive wide belt danders have two or more belts in a row to sand progressively smoother in one pass. Table is looking excellent though! |
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https://www.instagram.com/p/C82qtb3vuft/ I'm going to buy a bunch of belts, and disc for my sanders and have at it |
I use 80 grit on my drum. You can run the piece through more than once if necessary. Also easier to fine tune with an orbital. With 50 you're using a belt sander to take deep scratches out
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Out of curiosity, how does the epoxy sand compared to the wood? I assume it depends upon the wood, but is the epoxy generally harder than most woods, softer, or about the same? Does the epoxy sand hard/dry, or does it want to gum/ball up or clog the sanding media?
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The epoxy loads up the sandpaper, I use sanding screens on my DA...If I have it hooked to a shop vac.. it hardly loads up at all...If I'm a lazy sob.. Just pull the discs off and whack them a few times against the workbench and you're good to go.. The belt sander I just use regular belts... and when I feel the machine is not cutting as well as it should, I run the belt against a wire brush to unclog it.. Progress.. I also forgot I even had a 7in polisher and some Scotch-brite pads so I gave them a go.. that machine covered more area than my 3X21 belt sander... You can see how the pad loads up with resin.. this was after maybe 15 minutes.. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1721595865.jpg I spent about 2 hours today.. its getting there http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1721595933.jpg I had both side surfaced.. if I want the epoxy to be clear I have to prep both sides.. I figure another 8 hours of sanding.. and numerous belts and sanding discs http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1721596094.jpg |
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Casey the dog tried to get through it. Pretty funny. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1722036642.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1722036642.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1722036713.jpg |
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Well done. |
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Casey looks like a good boy. You never know until you try.
I'm sure Casey is thinking, "you had to have made the door for me, and you did a crappy job. It's too small!" |
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My Great Grandfather's old drill. I put this to use as a kid. Just happy to still own it.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1723434644.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1723434644.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1723434644.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1723434644.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1723434644.jpg |
Back in 2002 I designed and built this (wood/resin) 4x5 view camera (the Layton L-1) — for which I received a (design) patent and some awards…and which later evolved into a sleeker, lighter-weight, arguably “niftier” model (the Layton L-45A) crafted out of aerospace metals.
L-1: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1723466529.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1723466529.jpg At any rate…I created the parts for the L-1 from a compressed wood/resin laminate, using a table saw to cut out blanks, then a router table with micro adjustable fence - using a series of bits, including a number of round-over bits to create those curves and radii…using a series of phenolic templates I’d created - which I’d then double-stick-tape to the wood/resin blanks so that the bit-bearings could follow them. A nice property of the wood/resin product is that the “finish” is achieved by simply buffing on a wheel. Cyanoacrylate adhesives were used to glue up wood/resin parts. Downsides are that the materials are heavy, and very dangerous to work with on a high-speed/high powered router - especially the very small pieces…which can really fly! Amazed that I still have all of my fingers! |
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