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The "pin" (or the base of the tail) width has nothing to do with strength. The visible triangle is the end grain of the perpendicular board you're attaching to. Very strong joint. I like to hand cut dovetails to just the thickness of my back saw blade. It just boils down to what you like to see. I have a dovetail jig that employs a router. Much faster but not as esthetic as hand cut and the "pin" is much wider
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The thinner style dovetails are typically associated with higher quality/skill. It certainly projects the style of a handcut dovetail - as there is no dovetail bit that allows that narrow a base.
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Yes and then it's obvious to all that it's hand cut. Razor sharp chisel please! :^)
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Good to know. Thanks.
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In natural light... off to the shop to be flattened..
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Beautiful
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I didn't need them, but I wanted them.
https://images.greenbuildingadvisor....3-thumb1x1.jpg I didn't realize how small they were, but I wasn't surprised. Most old books are quite a bit smaller than books these days. |
Back at the shop 52" double drum sander... paying for this service saves me time...and does a better job than I ever could with my teeny belt sander
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Edit - just found one re-seller on the site has all 4 volumes - for $250! |
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Thank you for the really special reminder of dad! |
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Can't remember if it was one of those books or not but I referenced a really old carpentry book once. I built a wooden arch for a doorway. Oh my goodness, the math involved! The old school guys had to be mathematicians. Trigonometry, geometry, ratios... I'm not smart enough or schooled enough and was lost immediately. I built it my way, with a measuring tape, string and template material. I have no doubt as to the accuracy of the by the book method but my arch turned out perfect without wracking my brain.
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Cool article about a woodwork fraud:
https://www.nytimes.com/2024/07/18/arts/earl-washington-woodblocks-art-fraud.html |
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