Woodworking and carpentry thread

[masraum]

Originally Posted by edgemar

Cool article about a woodwork fraud:

https://www.nytimes.com/2024/07/18/arts/earl-washington-woodblocks-art-fraud.html

Thanks, looks interesting, unfortunately it's behind a paywall.

I found the following. Not sure if it's got the same or less info/detail.

https://www.theartnewspaper.com/2024/04/03/woodblock-print-forger-earl-marshawn-washington-sentenced

[herr_oberst]

Not as impressive as some of the other cool stuff here but I put a backyard gate up for a friend of mine.
If you're wondering about the hinge arrangement, I duplicated an older gate on the other side of the house; that's how a pro fence company did it, so that's what my friend wanted.
(That missing piece at the bottom by the post will be a whimsical little door.)

JFC! wood is expensive these days.

[jyl]

Nice work!

How are you finishing it? Some sort of waterproofing or sealing?

[TimT]

Only problem with having the shop flatten the table top...

The drums are 50 grit...

Getting the desired finish back takes a bunch of time..

[masraum]

Originally Posted by TimT

Only problem with having the shop flatten the table top...

The drums are 50 grit...

Getting the desired finish back takes a bunch of time..

Right, getting from 50grit back to anything resembling smooth on a table top of wood and epoxy must take forever.

[rwest]

Can’t they change belts and run it again?

The HS I worked at had a small Timesaver and it was pretty quick to change belts over.

Some of the more sophisticated and expensive wide belt danders have two or more belts in a row to sand progressively smoother in one pass.

Table is looking excellent though!

[TimT]

Can’t they change belts and run it again?

Not really an easy thing, the machine is quite large, and its drums not belts

https://www.instagram.com/p/C82qtb3vuft/

I'm going to buy a bunch of belts, and disc for my sanders and have at it

[gregpark]

I use 80 grit on my drum. You can run the piece through more than once if necessary. Also easier to fine tune with an orbital. With 50 you're using a belt sander to take deep scratches out

[masraum]

Out of curiosity, how does the epoxy sand compared to the wood? I assume it depends upon the wood, but is the epoxy generally harder than most woods, softer, or about the same? Does the epoxy sand hard/dry, or does it want to gum/ball up or clog the sanding media?

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

What's the gap at the bottom for?

[masraum]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

Not as impressive as some of the other cool stuff here but I put a backyard gate up for a friend of mine.
If you're wondering about the hinge arrangement, I duplicated an older gate on the other side of the house; that's how a pro fence company did it, so that's what my friend wanted.
(That missing piece at the bottom by the post will be a whimsical little door.)

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

What's the gap at the bottom for?

I'm guessing it's going to look like a door for an elf or something.

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

What's the gap at the bottom for?

Originally Posted by masraum

I'm guessing it's going to look like a door for an elf or something.

Pretty much. A whimsical little garden door, something like this....(but not this. I'm in the planning stages right now. I don't want or need to overthink it.)

[TimT]

Out of curiosity, how does the epoxy sand compared to the wood?

The epoxy loads up the sandpaper, I use sanding screens on my DA...If I have it hooked to a shop vac.. it hardly loads up at all...If I'm a lazy sob.. Just pull the discs off and whack them a few times against the workbench and you're good to go..

The belt sander I just use regular belts... and when I feel the machine is not cutting as well as it should, I run the belt against a wire brush to unclog it..

Progress.. I also forgot I even had a 7in polisher and some Scotch-brite pads so I gave them a go.. that machine covered more area than my 3X21 belt sander...

You can see how the pad loads up with resin.. this was after maybe 15 minutes..





I spent about 2 hours today.. its getting there



I had both side surfaced.. if I want the epoxy to be clear I have to prep both sides..

I figure another 8 hours of sanding.. and numerous belts and sanding discs

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

What's the gap at the bottom for?

Finally finished the little door that completes the gate.

Casey the dog tried to get through it. Pretty funny.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

Finally finished the little door that completes the gate.

Casey the dog tried to get through it. Pretty funny.

That is so awesome!

Well done.

[herr_oberst]

He really did give it a go.

[masraum]

Casey looks like a good boy. You never know until you try.

I'm sure Casey is thinking, "you had to have made the door for me, and you did a crappy job. It's too small!"

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by masraum

Casey looks like a good boy. You never know until you try.

I'm sure Casey is thinking, "you had to have made the door for me, and you did a crappy job. It's too small!"

Ha! Yeah, he's a good dog. Very high spirited and fun-loving. Definitely an alpha in every dog park I've seen him in.

[Racerbvd]

My Great Grandfather's old drill. I put this to use as a kid. Just happy to still own it.

[OK-944]

Back in 2002 I designed and built this (wood/resin) 4x5 view camera (the Layton L-1) — for which I received a (design) patent and some awards…and which later evolved into a sleeker, lighter-weight, arguably “niftier” model (the Layton L-45A) crafted out of aerospace metals.

L-1:



At any rate…I created the parts for the L-1 from a compressed wood/resin laminate, using a table saw to cut out blanks, then a router table with micro adjustable fence - using a series of bits, including a number of round-over bits to create those curves and radii…using a series of phenolic templates I’d created - which I’d then double-stick-tape to the wood/resin blanks so that the bit-bearings could follow them.

A nice property of the wood/resin product is that the “finish” is achieved by simply buffing on a wheel. Cyanoacrylate adhesives were used to glue up wood/resin parts.

Downsides are that the materials are heavy, and very dangerous to work with on a high-speed/high powered router - especially the very small pieces…which can really fly! Amazed that I still have all of my fingers!