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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 7,750
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Seeking Opinions - Hardwood Choice for Island Countertop
I'm going to be building a small countertop for my kitchen island (42" x 70").
Currently, I'm leaning towards walnut as I have light colored cabinets and white walls. This is going to be a butcher block style with edge boards facing up and will be about 2 5/8" thick. I'm going to alternate 1.5" and 3" widths It's going to be similar to my family room coffee table (shown below). I'm wondering if anyone has opinions on other wood types. I don't want the striped effect but rather a solid color with good-looking grain patterns. It will be finished with mineral oil and not stained. If anyone has any photos of their creations (counter tops or other slabs), please show them as I'm in my initial research phase now. My coffee table showing boards on edge and alternating widths. This has the "reclaimed wood effect - my countertop will be more refined: ![]() |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NW Ohio
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Old stretch of bowling alley cut down to size, sanded down, and clear lacquered...looks like a butcher block, and much cheaper.
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weekend wOrrier
Join Date: May 2011
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This is a small Walnut Island I made about 10 years ago with Hickory sides.
Walnut is a squirrely wood, make sure it is dried real gooooood before assembly. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Hickory wine rack mockup. |
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I would have a wood prep area, but not wood for the remainder.
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weekend wOrrier
Join Date: May 2011
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Looking back, I think more of a well worn butcher block look would work better than what I did. CKelly is right. Mine really needs to be refinished at this point.
Last edited by LEAKYSEALS951; 08-23-2021 at 10:52 AM.. |
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Registered ConfUser
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Waterlogged
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Wife did a lot of research on this recently. I don’t know all the details but she passed on walnut as it seemed to look very multi-colored once oiled. The island is quite large so we ended up with birch. More consistent, possibly a harder wood (?) if I recall, but mostly it has a nice grain when oiled with more consistent coloring. No pics since not being installed until mid-Sept.
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Personally, I'd avoid wood for horizontal kitchen surfaces. I'd be constantly on edge about damaging the surface or finish. The few wood countertops I've seen have not aged well. Regardless, I assume hardwoods like oak or maple would be the way to go.
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Lawrenceville GA 30045
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Technically, "butcher block" style implies the end grain of the wood is exposed on the surface. That allows knife cuts to self heal - as the wood fiber is not being cut across grain, but rather into the grain. If the lumber is laying on edge - whether narrow or wide widths - it's not butcher block - although that name style is used interchangeably.
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
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If I went with the "true butcher block" with end grain on the top, I'd never get this project finished. So, I will settle with edge-grain. Plus, I don't love the look of end grain.
I doubt this counter will get the abuse of a true chefs kitchen as I barely cook now and will use real cutting blocks for any type of cutting. But, when it does wear, I will sand and restore. This is the look I am shooting for: ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Join Date: Jun 2000
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Good choice. Looks great.
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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One word for you, Vern. Eastern Rock Maple. End grain would be best just like MBAtarga suggested. If not, just glue em' up but it should be Rock Maple and no open grain wood like Oak or Hickory.
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New Jersey
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Quote:
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