We will ship you some.

I'm going from memory here, but I'm pretty sure the Quantum is a post-Trek takeover Klein.

So, a Klein in name, but didn't really have Gary's fingerprints.

Nice! Do that ten times and you've got your century! Done and dusted!

FWIW... Quantum was definitely introduced pre-trek.

Some old catalog shots here... Diablo Scott's Bike Blog: A History of Klein Road Bikes

70 degrees today....first truly nice biking day.

The roads were wet from earlier rainstorm....left my backside drenched.
Fenders would be great sometimes.

I'm old. Memory fading in and out! Thanks for setting me straight! Love the catalog, too!

spokes came today :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680927506.jpg

not using a dial indicator but maybe I will tomorrow to get the wheels exact but I wouldn't feel any difference riding the way I have them now.

still working on the rear

You are fancy, my friend. Dial indicator? How did you build that wheel, on a truing stand, right not the fork with brakes caliper as a guide:eek:

Sounds like you are having fun.

I don't know how you could find one in the US but the "Preciray Truing Stand" is the best there is.
(No longer made but they occasionally appear on Ebay)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681204468.jpg

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Thats a nice bit of kit. I looked on ebay and didn't find one. Its probably a tool most people hang on to.

You'll need a dishing tool to center the hub. It's easy enough to make your own..

Here's one idea. There's lots of others, or you can buy them from Park for a few bucks.

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The front went together like a piece of cake but the rear took a little longer. I thought I bought the wrong spokes but I was able to move the rim over to the cassette side by fiddeling with the spokes.

That is a very cool truing stand. Why can't and don't they make one like it today.

The current upper end truing stands have dials instead of pointers. Better? :confused:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681273472.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681273543.jpg

I have seen dials indicators on then at some of the local shops but the plastic rollers and the indicators seems so simple and effective to use.

Paris-Roubaix 2023... Tubeless fail! :eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681291172.jpg

Yep... I've always been wary of tool manufacturers making lofty claims.

Its already too hot to ride in the day. I'm going to have to get some new lights. Cateye? My rear light is kaput from the batteries corroding. I should have taken them out a long time ago.

I recommend USB rechargeable lights. I got tired of buying batteries and now there's no need to - plus LED and LCD lights are brighter and smaller.

And I'd love to have some of that hot weather you're experiencing. The temp here has between mid thirties to mid fifties and wet here for so long that I'm convinced we're in the beginnings of a new ice age.

I saw the tv coverage of that disaster. One 12,000 dollar bike into the scrap heap.

I bought one of these a while back. Best light ever.

THEN... I placed it on my back bumper (the rear bumper guard 911), drove out of the neighborhood, and it flew off my bumper, only to get crushed by another car.

DEFEAT.

BUT... , I rode up a road last week, and found one that had fallen off someone's bike on a descent. Before IT could get crushed, I 'adopted' it and put it on my bike.
Very bright blinky. still binking. It needed home. Fit right into my previous one's empty seatpost mount.

VICTORY.

Edit- you can get some really high power versions of this light if you go to the cygolite website and pay a little more. Highly recommended. Good stuff.
Warning- These can blind your brain.

https://www.rei.com/product/110181/cygolite-hotshot-sl-50-rear-bike-light?sku=1101810001&CAWELAID=120217890003179979&C AGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=107744801264&CATCI=pla-452552815162&cm_mmc=PLA_Google%7C21700000001700551 _1101810001%7C92700053575966326%7CTOF%7C7170000006 6691934&gclid=CjwKCAjwrdmhBhBBEiwA4Hx5gxMk6_SWgR9b XeQu2Pa4wghT9x7LsBMj7_Nv7p9aI3-idE3VpbJSUxoCzVsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Sacred feces today was a big mistake. I'm not adjusted to the heat / humidity yet. I had to turn around at 8 for a total of 12 miles.

ugh.. changed my mind about the paint

I'm doing the full auto paint job

strip, prime, base coat, clear coat

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1682733133.jpg


House of Kolor PBC31 and a silver

I decided to use the same color as what I'm going to use on my BMW R90S Daytona orange/silver restoration.

https://scgs3bucket.s3.amazonaws.com...6b-DSC_001.jpg

The House of Kolor isn't the BMW code but there is a guy on ADVrider who paints custom Harleys who says its a dead ringer, aka close enough. Next time I'm in San Diego I'd like to drop by his place and give him a six pack of anything but Bud Lite.

https://www.houseofkolor.com/opencms...e/PBC31-lg.jpg

My pic didn't get attached somehow..

try again

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1682734190.jpg

I may have to make my own decals

Currently on the bench... This made a loud pop when it failed!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1683520759.jpg

How the heck does a hub crack like that in that direction. Normally, the flange will break

Long story short... When you have tree trunk legs like mine it's a regular occurrence. ;)

Without the BS: I've owned that hub for well over twenty years and it must have well over 80,000 km on it. So I'm riding up a big hill and it pops... That's it. I wasn't really pushing it but at the end of the day everything wears out but it did get me home without incident.

Shoulda bought DuraAce:D The crank may come apart, but never the hubs. Muhahahah

True... DuraAce hubs are generally bullet proof. The crank issue with Shimano is well documented but cranks from all manufacturers can fail.

My big concern is alloy handle bars. That's one of the few components I won't buy second hand. Back in the day, before carbon they were getting very light and failed regularly (they're better now).

I'm adding a water bottle cage to the Gilmour frame. I got the parts from framebuildersupply and started practicing my brazing with a piece of conduit and a couple washers. I was getting good structural brazes but I want good looking brazes too. So I switched from flux coated brass wire to silver brazing and I got a good joint that looks better. I'll try attaching a pic.

^ Make sure to mock up the frame with the cranks, front derailluer, and other water bottle mounted with bottles in the cages. I'm sure you already knew that- but it's amazing how that stuff will interfere with one another and bunch up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1683595053.jpg

Silver braze on left, brass on right

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1683595108.jpg

Silver melts a a lower temperature and flows better than brass. I think I'm ready to drill the frame and braze in the mounts.

ooooh....

thanks...a picture is worth a thousand words

that would require a mod to one of the water bottle cages

I waws just messing with ya on the DA hubs. I tore the flange off one with my massive power of course. The be honest, the spokes are tighten too damn much. DA cranks can de-laminate and that's a known issue but Shimano are good about it and replace them in a hurry. I remember the Campy Ti Super Record BB spindles snapping leaving rider with their hands over the balls on the side of the road. From memory, I think it happened to Figon.

What, you don't like the Deda 219 handles?:D Heck, only 219 grams. I have one on one of my old bikes but that doesn't get ridden hard anymore.

got my result on my MRI. I tore my PCL and meniscus. The meniscus tore in three places. Nothing they can do but rest for now. I can spin easy gears according to the ortho doc. but no getting off the saddle. Fook me, man. I am a race horse (old and falling apart now). I aint no pony ride. :D:mad: A simple fall, now this carp. I am so pissed at myself.

Seatposts for me. Al and/or Ti regardless. I'm kind of a skinny arsed guy and I try to be gentile on my parts and the bike parts. I'm on my third one for my Yeti - thank gawd none were broken in the "moment" so there were no ER trips. That could get horrifying...

After a long soul sucking climb and flying down long mts roads with a bunch of friend few years back, on the way back to the car, one of the guy's carbon stem just snapped while he was just rolling over the driveway to the parking lot. He fell over at walking pace but I can only imagine the damage at 40 flying down the 8 mile hill. Scare me just thinking about it.

STOP!!! STOP!!! JUST STOP!!! nananananananananana.... fingers in ears....I can't hear you!!!!!! God that freaks me out. :eek::eek::eek::eek:

FWIW I've never seen a seat-post fail/break... But they like to get stuck REGULARLY!

What I have seen a few times over the years is the frame failing in that area, broken seat tubes especially. Just a smear of grease will stop the bad stuff happening but often seat-posts are forgotten during regular maintenance. Carbon grip paste works well in Carbon frames.

(the unstuck seat-post gets binned)

This is the seat post area of a new frame being built by Darrell Llewellyn McCulloch. Note the duel seat post binder. This is done to accommodate carbon seat-posts. He's built literately thousands of bike frame and other components over the years. Darrell sells these via his web page: Llewellyn Custom Bicycles Home

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1683669551.jpg