Cippo:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406426427.jpg

A slight distraction for Nibali:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406426484.jpg

better then looking at Velverde's Lycra ass

I was told years ago its about power, so everyone went to a 53 ring. Well, so did I and the 172.5 crank. I am sure it make no difference, by my butt dyno anyway. Never tried 165, but trackies like it. I betone can spin like crazy on them. Now I am back to spinning a little more, so I am sticking to 170 cranks. One of the guys that ride with us is 6'4". I loan him my 170 mm crank and he said he felt no difference and still motor like hell on the flats.

Cavendish rode 2013 TdF with two different length cranks, he eventually realized it but not until the race was mostly done. Hard to imagine.

Ok, so I think my back is finally rehabbed to a point where I can get back on the bike. We have the dual suspension tandem but I want to get a single bike just because. I still have a Salsa Vaya but frankly I don't want to get on a bike without full suspension - my spine needs all the help it can get. That will be up for sale.

I had a 29'er and frankly didn't like it that much. Back in the day I rode 26" mtn (full rigid, then a Moots YBBeat softail). The 29 I had (Salsa Spearfish) just felt wallowy in the rear end. It is fine on the tandem as I'm not tossing that around, but for a new bike, I'm looking at 27.5 as I think it'll be the best of both worlds. I'm not into long travel - I just want a bit of float and the edge taken off. Looking at Santa Cruz 5010, Turner Flux, and Giant Anthem. Historically I liked to support smaller American builders (e.g. Turner) but the Giant actually is the best fit at least from reading geometry and bang-for buck.

Anyone on current 27.5 bikes?

As for road cranks, I used to run 175mm on my road bikes. But I wasn't a spinner...

John - didn't see your Peugeot last night ... dang, I never would've sold that one!

On crank arm length, some of it is probably down to the individual rider's tolerance for geometry changes. Some of us can barely ride if the saddle height or cleat position is changed 2mm. Others? They can jump on anything and don't seem to notice. From a purely ergonomic standpoint, there is an ideal geometry for every rider (whether they like it or not :D ).
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I was in at the shop I bought the Blurr LT from a few years back and had a quick look at the Bronson. Pretty impressive bike at a pretty impressive price. It's riding on 27.5s.

Love the Santa Cruz VPP. For trail riding and a little street riding it is almost invisible until you need it. I have never used the rear suspension lockout on the Blurr.

The young guy at the shop was saying that you don't notice the wheel size too much going from 26 to 27.5 but you sure notice it when going back from 27.5 to 26.

For modern, compact frame geometry makes it really easy but I do prefer a smaller tighter fit rather than going up in frame size.

For vintage bikes and within reason, I can accept a range of frame size. I'll swap stem's and sometimes a seat post and make it work. I also carry the needed wrench's during a ride and tweak adjustment. It takes a number of rides and I'll only raise the saddle in small increments. I don't make drastic adjustments.

Can understand how vintage bikes can be nitpicky for some. Stretched out (LeMond style) top tube is easier on the back, arguably more aero and the most comfortable for me. Although, riding a smaller vintage frame can crunch me, seems more like a modern bike, feels quicker in transition- fun sprinter and climber. Those smaller frames are more fun in shorter, faster club rides but for centuries or distance, I'll go for the stretch and flatter back. Just seems more comfortable. (Same when captain on the tandem.)

Crank length. I don't get the science of it either. The long arms worked well for high bottom brackets and mtn. bikes, but I'll stick with the 172.5 or less for road bikes. If I'm riding with the drop bars and low, my knees are just close enough without hitting the elbows.

And then there's another factor, at least for me. It depends on whether the bike has dual control or vintage old school downtube shifters. Weird eh? Dual control convenience makes keeping cadence ridiculous easy and keep the chain dancing.

On bikes with the old DT shifters, its fine with a close range set of cogs but for the wide ratio sets sometimes I don't always feel like constantly reaching down. I just leave it one gear and grunt it out. I know its all wrong but as long as I know my knees give me a pre- warning, use some pedal lift + push technique, can get away with a larger chainring on shorter crankarm's.

jyl- WOW! You have some amazing cool bikes but that Peugeot is a piece of cycling history. No doubt you follow the rarities and price trends but having $1,700 into it when done would seem like a steal.

The Bronson is overkill for me, hence the interest in the 5010. I really didn't care for 29 off road and I'm tall enough that it shouldn't be an issue. Just a different feel. 26 certainly requires more work than a larger time but is easy to toss around. I also learned to ride off road on full rigid bikes so the idea of just plowing over/through things is a bit foreign to me.

There are already 2014 Giant closeouts which make that an attractive way to go. With decent components these bikes (Santa Cruz, Turner) are up around $5K

Get enough of the '14 Tour?
Slaying the skunk. (guessing this link won't last)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elo5_iNEjRo#t=18

vids: Eddy Merckx - The Race
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpEPeU-bdxw&list=PL5EB658D848295588

'73 Giro

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUIr9LG1juw

(would embed but somehow they like to disappear in a few days ;(

Yeah, major withdrawal symptoms :( I instinctively turned to NBCSN at 5 and got 'NASCAR Today' or something ... :mad:

To ease the pain, I'm taking delivery of a new frame this week :D To quote George Jefferson, I'm movin' on up. To the top of the Gitane food chain. Not planned, I just happened to find a rare 1984 Team Pro in my size! I'll be swapping the components off of my '85 Pro and selling that frame. There's some mystery surrounding these frames. One being the Columbus SL "Competition" tubing. Varying opinions on what tubing it actually is. I'll be doing some detective work on that along with a long-time framebuilder who is very familiar with 80s Columbus tube sets.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406583777.jpg
Loving these fat forks:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406584010.jpg

Are you blind. That is not remotely your size. It is, however, my size.

I hadn't seen the 5010 and it actually looks pretty similar to the old Blur and Blur LT.
Decent bike in all aluminum.
Up here, the prices of new bikes come down to a more reasonable level around now.
One thing you need to learn on a full suspension bike is to just sit down and let the bike work.
Take your pedals and shoes and go ride some bikes!

Wooow! Top tier cool. I thought they used Reynolds. So if its Italian tubing, are the dropouts Campagnolo?

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Since were on the French road bike theme, I stripped down the budget Motobecane GS. Po man style. Going for a change into a faux early 70's team BIC in orange. Will also get the vintage font / graphics. Nothing really special about it but just neat enough to draw a look or two and be a fun rider.

Not going nutz for the components either and just keeping what it has for now. Only if the near like or correct parts come along for a song will I swap them out. I'm patient for parts but not for riding. I want to ride it now!

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