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As if I don't have enough to do, this should be fun. Is this worth the time and effort to restore? I have the whole bike but many of the chrome parts are pitted.

What do you guys know about this frame?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372030794.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372030819.jpg

A quick google looks promising
Rickert Spezial [Archive] - Bike Forums

Back to original? Depends on whether you have a complete grupo. Some of that stuff is availabe if missing or unobtanium. Do you have the cups and spindle?

What size is the seat tube?

I have an incomplete set of Campy Delta brakes. I have to have the parts made.....

Yes everything is complete and functional, the Gruppo is all campy, it has a lot of rust. Will it clean up?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372038747.jpg

It should clean up nice if not too pitted. Simechrome polish and/or a bench grinder with a ragwheel.....jeweler's rouge. Campy is built to last for decades.

Toss the tires and tubes and seat. New chain....Online parts house for the generic cables and cable covers, new bike tape, get a tube of grease.....you may want to consider having the wheels repalced and relaced.

I've used Bike Nashbar, they do sales every few weeks. See the ones that do free shipping since you are on the island.

Is your plan to strip the paint or just clean it and maybe clear coat it?

I really rely on my work stand.

A 4/5/6mm allen wrench...

I would really like to strip and paint, I think that the paint and decals are too far gone to salvage. I looked but haven't found exact match decals, only ones for the "spezial".

The pictures really don't showcase the severity of the rust. But I'll, clean it up and see what it looks like before I strip it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyl (Post 7512897)

A quick google looks promising
Rickert Spezial [Archive] - Bike Forums

Wow thanks, I did a little research and it looks like Hugo was quite the frame builder. I am not sure where I am going to go with this, I'll probably just build It with original parts and ride it. Perhaps later update.

Replace freewheel and toe clips, too rusty. Maybe replace chain. The brake hoods may be too far gone, if so there are reproductions, or Cane Creek makes some modern hoods that look close.

Everything else is aluminum with steel fasteners. The aluminum will polish, up to mirror finish if you want. Metal polish and a buffing wheel is what I use. If there are significant scratches in an aluminum part, you can remove them with 200, 400, 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper then buffing.

For rusty steel and chrome, get oxalic acid (wood bleach), put 1 tbsp per 1 gal water, and soak the parts for 1 day, check, maybe do a little gentle wire brushing, keep soaking. It will dissolve the rust away, may take days. Usually will not harm paint or decals, sometimes people soak entire frames. Though no 100% guarantees, and I've often heard of paint needing a waxing after. Do not soak aluminum - it will be damaged.

The rusty chrome fork legs - fill a gallon milk jug with oxalic acid as above, set the fork legs in it, and let them soak for 1-4 days. Adjust level so that the water/acid doesn't go to the paint to avoid even a small risk of affecting the paint. The rust will be gone, the chrome may still be pitted. Rub it with aluminum foil, it will leave shiny aluminum in the pits, partly disguising them. Then clear coat, or keep it dry.

The grease is dry and the bearings will be damaged if you don't rebuild them before re-installing and riding.

You'll need a few bike specific tools. The aluminum parts will mangle easily otherwise. Let us know if you are not familiar w / that.

Or, for rusty non-chromed steel bolts/nuts, just wire wheel them bright.

The original paint and decals must be saved. Repainting a valuable vintage bike severely lowers its value. Powder coating destroys its value completely. Those decals are NLA and even if there were repro decals for this make, they a adhesive vinyl not the original water slide. Plus a good bike repaint costs a lot!

Wheels - are rims and spokes steel or aluminum? Probably latter. Remove tires and rim strip, apply penetrating oil to spoke nipples, then true and tension wheels (yourself or a good bike shop).

I repeat - the original paint and decals must be saved. An original bike with patina, where rust has been removed with an oxalic acid soak, is worth far more than the same bike with a respray and repro decals, and if you respray without the correct decals, or powder coat, you might as well not bother restoring it.

Go register at Bike Forums and post pics and questions in the Classic & Vintage forum. Those are the experts on vintage bikes and restoration methods.

Ok, that seals it, I'll do a good cleaning and build it up as original. Once I get the rust off the frame should I seal it with clear or spot prime and use a color match?

If you are good with touch up painting, do that. If you are not (like me) then just use clear (clear paint or nail polish) to seal up the former rust spots. I don't know if I'd clear coat the whole thing. Depends how authentic a resto you are doing, which might be influenced by the bike's value. Ask in the Appraisals forum at Bike Forums.

Hey, on the Rickerts, if you decide to sell it as a project-in-box, let me know. I don't need another project but I stash them for when I run out . . .

just picked up a freebie Nishiki Competition with some Nos parts on it. Be nice to your neighbors folks :)

^^^^ You didn't do any such thing until there are pictures for us to view. :-)

for those who like to strap it on :D
Free vintage pedal cage straps - PM if you want them.

odd lot:
One French Lapize
Two webbed unidentified brand but has 4 four leaf clover (Colnago??) and the one is missing a plastic tab end.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372216308.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372216323.jpg

So what is/was the asking price?

$4500 Carmel, IN
link 1972 Schwinn Paramount NOS