Am I missing something or are a lot of folks running with a slight shade of green skepticism-envy or what?

Thats a great find. Good for you. Spend what you want. The only person you have to answer to is yourself.

Even if you overpaid for it and spent way more than its worth in restoration I say "Kick ass".

And if you didnt and you dont even better. But who cares! Its your baby.

I'm down the street so if you ever need someone to help move it around the garage drop me a pm.

Very very cool indeed.

Milt I plan on enjoying the car in its current state, whats the rush? I will take 6 months or so to complete. i do have 2 race cars w 2 blown engines that we need to finish first.

I'm not trying to be argumentative but,....

These are just observations from pictures...

Missed that :D The car has had some paint work in the rear, you can see the over spray on some of the wires. Still if it has good bones and the rest of the car is solid he has a great platform for the restoration.

Without question, you should tear it down. Best case, the old gaskets and sealants used will demand this, as otherwise it will be a leaker. My guess is it will need more than just a reseal, but there's only one way to know for sure. In any event, if you're wanting a concours car, as you state, there's a lot of cosmetic work needed on the engine which is best done while it's apart.

JR

What do you mean by this? When you say "enjoy", do you mean just going through the investigating, poking around, brainstorming process? Are you speaking of getting it running in its current state? :eek:
And I think 6 months will pass so quickly, you better take a metric ton of pics. Not to mention notes documenting the whole thing.

Regardless, it's going to be a lot of fun. May have to make a trip out to see it and visit the cave. I want to see the 220, too.

...and the headlight rings....

I totally agree. It's very worthy of the resto and the 69 is a unique bird. However, it also has a number of one year only quirks that will add up fast if doing correctly. I foresee a nasty surprise once the rear parcel pad is removed. That horse hair really traps moisture.

All of the brightwork has been painted black and will need a full resto. Going to need the 69 engine lid (currently sporting a later lid as has been mentioned).

Do we know if it's matching numbers yet? COA?

That engine is sporting tensioners which doesn't jive with the off road date of 75. Any records showing a later rebuild? That will help out on the costs some if that can be verified.

you mean like this?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362588668.jpg
Its still fixable....http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362588909.jpg

That's the fun part! :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362588962.jpg

I'm not thinking he drove the car 140K+ miles in 5 years. What I'm saying is that I doubt it was parked for good in 1975. It's a nice story, but I see things that don't add up. Forgetting the overall condition and sun damage, the chain tensioners are a later design that came along in 1984. The tires aren't from 1975 and I don't think the radio is either. Things like that...

Don't get me wrong, I'm not out to pick this thing apart just to be a jerk. I'm simply saying that I don't think the car is a low mileage car and that it will require significantly more work to get it to where you've indicated that you want it. It would not surprise me to see that your estimated restoration costs actually double by the time you are done. To get this car back to a very high level will require that you restore virtually every part on it, as I see nothing much that can be used as-is.

Just evaluate what you have with a critical eye and be realistic about what your end goal might be. There's a lot of potential upside in some of these cars but you have to be careful.

Good luck,
JR

"S" wheels all #'s matching like the rest of the car.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362593990.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362594042.jpg

All fuchs alloys used in 1969 were the "deep sixes". There was no specific "S wheel". The "flat sixes" were first seen on 1972 model year cars.

So much to learn.

"deep sixes" were designed to run tubes. There is no safety bead for tubless as in the flat sixes. The valve stem hole on the deep sixes is larger. Evidently, there is a valve stem made for tractor wheels that fits.

Just going from memory here. All my reference books and spare parts left here when the car did.

Frankly, I admire your courage for taking this on. Well, either courage or being foolhardy...time will reveal which.

[QUOTE=pwd72s;7312435Evidently, there is a valve stem made for tractor wheels that fits.[/QUOTE]

TR415, if my memory is any good.

JR

The date codes are stamped in the hub area. You can just see one of them peaking in your photo.

Those dates are what are neat to match up. Should line up just ahead of the build date.

Did you get any paperwork with the car? How do you know it's numbers matching?

More blue overspray on the spring plate there....

I actually prefer the three bar to the five...SmileWavy I have me one of those waiting in the wings..

You sold your '72? That's news!

Hey Mark - nice pull. Can't wait to see the finished product.

^^^Animosity illustrated...

Paul is giving out good information on this thread so don't diss him.

re: "So much to learn" the most important thing is what Paul posted in #75 - the deep sixes aren't all that safe to drive on. I do not have them on my car. They also cost a lot.

If you are young, restoring this car will be a great project! In just a few decades it will be perfect.

Personally, I would get rid of all the horsehair and use better, modern products. But worry about that after the shell is made intact (I'd stiffen it up as per the TRE done framoboise or fraise car, too). But I am a functionally minded type person not a concoursmobile type. I also started with a hacked up "T" so let Jimminy Cricket's conscience be your guide.