2.7 x-faktory PMO EFI Upgrade.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

Congrats, glad to see you are up and running.
Question on using 2 individual syncrometers.... do they both read identically? Ie, if you swap them left to right, do they give the exact same reading?

Yes, I did verify they read the same, I actually use just one to set each throttle body so they are the same and then will use both to set the side to side balance. The side to side is dependent on you getting the linkage set up so that as you give throttle, both sides are opening at the same time- if one side has a slightly tighter adjustment, that side will open more than the other.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by al lkosmal

That is real progress!!!.....feels good, doesn't it?


regards,
al

Oh yea!

I did have a closed IAC at operating temp yesterday, although I have to double check if I had left the CAN bus setting closed or if it is working properly through programming. Thanks for the email information.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by winders

I used a Morgan Carbtune Pro to sync the throttle bodies on my race bikes. I think that would work great on ITBs that have vacuum ports. This tool looks cool too:

https://youtu.be/xxJxG95IuFs

Expensive but feature rich!

If you have ITBs with a 996 GT3 intakes, the old style tools like the Uni-Syn won't work so you need a tool that reads off the vacuum ports of each ITB.

Good idea- probably more accurate since it goes tight on a small port rather than stuffed into an air intake. I’ll have to see how crazy I get on adjusting them...

[rwest]

So a couple successful checks today, but not enough time to go around the block- tomorrow, hopefully!

I verified that my IAC was open on start and closed at temp and that my throttle bodies are balanced from side to side at multiple RPMs.

Once I get it roadworthy, I will see about getting a dyno appointment. I haven’t inquired with this shop on found online, but they specialize in Subaru and note they deal with Megasquirt, so I’m feeling good about my chances.

[rwest]

Took it around the block a couple of times today and data logged the drives. I think my AFR gauge is a Bo Derek fan as it was showing “10” most of the time! I did a few adjustments to the VE table and will try again tomorrow.

[al lkosmal]

rutager,
The o2 was pegged.....you must have been sending out some smoky signals on that ride.....

[rwest]

Originally Posted by al lkosmal

rutager,
The o2 was pegged.....you must have been sending out some smoky signals on that ride.....

Hi Al,

Wasn’t all the time, more on acceleration. I made a list and then took a couple digits off of the VE in the MAP/RPM problem zone.

Made sure it was warm enough so I wasn’t getting warmup enrichment too.

[rwest]

Another couple rounds the neighborhood and a few corrections, but still not enough. This thing must just sip gas at 2,000rpm. Took a few more digits off the offending VE cells and went for another drive; car seemed smoother with out the bogged down feeling of being pig rich.

Did another set of corrections, but don’t have time to drive again tonight.

By the time I adjust these cells low enough, it will be putting gas back in the tank- who needs a hybrid?

Proof that I made it out on the street!

[rwest]

Still tuning- unfortunately the dyno that I found that seemed like they could help with tuning turned me down as they didn’t have knowledge of my ECU.

Today I took it out on an actual road, not just around the neighborhood so
I could get it up to 45MPH and take a look at how it faired. Still too rich, part way because I brain farted the last time and changed cells using data from before the car was up to temp.

Now to just keep tweaking and searching for a dyno with Tunerstudio experience.

[al lkosmal]

Rutager,
You are making progress. Did you datalog your 45mph run. If so, email me a copy, along with your tune file and I'll take a look at it.
regards,
al

[rwest]

Originally Posted by al lkosmal

Rutager,
You are making progress. Did you datalog your 45mph run. If so, email me a copy, along with your tune file and I'll take a look at it.
regards,
al

Hi Al,

I did, but after the drive, I went through the log and adjusted cells, so I will have to do another and send to you before I make changes.

Thanks,
Rutager

[rwest]

Update on the project: been driving it short distances every few days and making adjustments based on the logs. I have improved the cold start behavior and there are less misfires/backfires now, but still present.

I did “get on it” a bit and when I hit around 5,000rpm, it came on- like I would expect ITBs to feel like, although this is my first experience with them.

I found a local dyno who can tune it. They are a few weeks out, so if the snow and the salt that follows wait, I will get it done this year, otherwise I either flatbed or wait.

[rwest]

ASSUME NOTHING!

The snow, ice and salting haven’t occurred here yet, although the cold sure has. Still think the dyno could happen and need to contact the shop as I have not heard back from them recently.

Started thinking that it would be very wise to check over all my mechanical stuff first as it would suck to spent a few hours and several hundred dollars only to have the shop figure out that we were “chasing our tails” tuning because of a vacuum leak or unbalanced ITBs, so I started by sticking my smoke machine up the tail pipe- oops, lots of smoke coming out of the heat exchanger/header to muffler connection.

Since I had rebuilt the engine and put everything back together cleaned and with new gaskets, it was easy to ASSUME that it was sealed, nope, but better to find in the garage than out of my wallet!

[rwest]

Removed the muffler and then spent several hours lying on my side with a flat plate and sandpaper to get a good surface on the heat exchangers. Did the muffler flanges too, but that was sitting on my tablesaw at a comfortable height.

No leaks in the exhaust!

Next up intake... my first try smoking one wasn’t good, so I posted a separate thread asking for the best method.

[BCLi]

Originally Posted by rwest

Removed the muffler and then spent several hours lying on my side with a flat plate and sandpaper to get a good surface on the heat exchangers. Did the muffler flanges too, but that was sitting on my tablesaw at a comfortable height.

No leaks in the exhaust!

Next up intake... my first try smoking one wasn’t good, so I posted a separate thread asking for the best method.

Congrats Rutager - have been off line for awhile pushing to get all the bugs sorted out. Heath exchangers deleted so when I saw what you're going through, I was happy about that. I got my ITB'ed engine balanced and on the road, and am currently trying to tune it as well. Idle seems fine; some issues with starting from 1st and getting a stall after warm up, but trying to work through that. Will be looking for a dyno that can tune MS, but that may need to wait til spring.

[rwest]

Hi Bert,

Yup, spring it will have to be to get to the dyno- lots of salt spread on the roads here now.

I did figure out how to smoke test the ITBs and realized that I forgot about having the vacuum lines from 1,3,4 and 6 on a common manifold! So I was running smoke out of the other stacks due to vacuum lines. Lines 2&5 feed my MAP.

I clamped the vacuum line at each body with a proper clamp plier and smoked each stack with intake valves closed and got good results with my OTC smoke tester.

[BCLi]

Originally Posted by rwest

Hi Bert,

Yup, spring it will have to be to get to the dyno- lots of salt spread on the roads here now.

I did figure out how to smoke test the ITBs and realized that I forgot about having the vacuum lines from 1,3,4 and 6 on a common manifold! So I was running smoke out of the other stacks due to vacuum lines. Lines 2&5 feed my MAP.

I clamped the vacuum line at each body with a proper clamp plier and smoked each stack with intake valves closed and got good results with my OTC smoke tester.

That's great, Rutager. Very clever. I've got all of my vacuum lines into one 'manifold' since I don't run my MAP separately. I too have the experience initially of getting a 'kick' above 4000 RPM, but adjusted my VE table to have a more smooth uptake at lower RPMs. I also discovered my AFR table had been set to 16 at low RPMs for some reason, which when corrected allowed me a better (non-IAC) idle - another thing to check. So lots to take into account, no? But with more air coming in, it's a different experience than the single throttle, and I was able to take the beast up to redline for the first time since I've owned it. I assume you have had the same experience. Now to get to the to do list for the colder weather, until spring...
Best,
Bert

[rwest]

Quick update: I’ve been driving and tuning every few days as my schedule and weather allows, mostly around the neighborhood at low speeds getting up to temp so corrections are off then tuning the VE table.

Al of course has been excellent at looking at my logs and sending corrections. I also have been making my own between several runs in a row.

Today was the first time I took it on to the freeway. It ran good enough that I didn’t run into any problems or engine dying. I still have a very rich issue at cold drive off and some light backfires on decelerations especially when followed by acceleration.

I need to try and get on a dyno; weather stopped my attempt to get on the schedule last fall.

[al lkosmal]

Rutager,
You are making progress....I received the log from your last run...i'm out, this morning, helping a friend get his carbs dialed in (not my forte)....but will review your last run later today.

regards,
al

[rwest]

Thanks Al, much appreciated.

Quick question: is there a way to “bookmark” the data logging while driving, so when something happens I could tap a key and when I look at it later could see where it happened and review the data?