1980SC estate find. Let's get it running!

[vjz]

E for Europe?

[vjz]

This week I am hoping to start putting back all of the stuff I have removed so I can start testing the running condition.

I found that there were some brittle vacuum lines (mainly from the WUR to the thermo vacuum valve, and then up to the T fitting behind the rubber throttle/sensor plate intake cover. I replaced that as well, because there was a massive rip underneath it.

I went to the local parts store and it didn't seem like they had anything that fit very well on the shelf. What size should I be on the lookout for? I have another place I can check on Saturday in town.

I deleted all of the auto heater crap and plan to backdate that at some point. Seems fairly straightforward if you buy the right side heater duct.

Also, is there any decent place to relocate the thermo valve so that I don't have to install the auto blower motor bracket back in? I know the two injector hoses clamp to that, but I felt I could make a different bracket that is hidden a bit more. I am liking the way the engine looks with less stuff in it!

[ADDvanced]

You won't be able to get any of the hoses locally. I sourced all mine from belmetric.com. Get calipers and measure everything you have.

[vjz]

Found some braided cloth 3.5mm on ECS tuning. I've seen that's a common size for the car. I bought five meters. That's plenty to do what I need and have a bit left over.

[ADDvanced]

To do all the hoses on the CIS system, you need like 4-5 different hose diameters. I forget what they are right now, but yeah, it's sort of annoying.

[vjz]

I'm starting with the 3.5 lines that are easy to reach. A few hoses look to be auto parts store sizes, so I can make that work.

[ADDvanced]

Just be aware that even if your local auto parts store has some with a similar diameter, if they are not a similar construction (exterior braided weave) they might not work. I tried using rubber hoses of a similar diameter on my CIS system, and they fit on the fittings, but the routing of the hoses collapsed the hoses/pinched them from functioning properly. The correct hoses are 'stiffer' and have larger bend radii = don't kink = function correctly. Good luck.

[PeteKz]

I buy vacuum and fuel hose from my local NAPA store, but I try to get the brands that are not made in China, because there is a real difference in material quality. The Chinese stuff will get loose with time, crack or harden, and is easily damaged by oil and fuel. The good stuff will last many years.

Vacuum hose has thicker walls than, say, wiper washer hose, so that it can take the vacuum without collapsing, even when bent in a tight curve. Just get something that fits with a little friction and you're good to go. If you are anal about how it looks, buy the OE German stuff from our sponsor.

As for the location of the thermo valve, on my CIS setup it's under the #3 intake runner. More of a PITA to get to, but out of sight.

[PeteKz]

vjz; the WUR number is on the top of the WUR. You have to look down on it between the #1 and #2 intake runners, and you will have to push the lines out of the way. You probably will not be able to see the first set of numbers because the top vacuum line will be partial covering them. The sequence of numbers will be close to this: 438 140 089. The 438 140 will be raised numbers, and the last 3 digits will be stamped. The last 3 are the important ones. Yours should also be 089.

The FD has an ID plate on the back (rear of the car). You will see it if you remove the air filter cover. Mine is 148153 041. Yours should be the same.

[vjz]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

I buy vacuum and fuel hose from my local NAPA store, but I try to get the brands that are not made in China, because there is a real difference in material quality. The Chinese stuff will get loose with time, crack or harden, and is easily damaged by oil and fuel. The good stuff will last many years.

Vacuum hose has thicker walls than, say, wiper washer hose, so that it can take the vacuum without collapsing, even when bent in a tight curve. Just get something that fits with a little friction and you're good to go. If you are anal about how it looks, buy the OE German stuff from our sponsor.

As for the location of the thermo valve, on my CIS setup it's under the #3 intake runner. More of a PITA to get to, but out of sight.

Interesting. I will look into that spot. It’s not the end of the world if it’s on the bracket, but that’s a BIG bracket for a tiny part. I may hit the junkyard this weekend to see if there’s a vehicle that has a piece of metal with two different size holes and use one of the existing blower bracket studs

[vjz]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

vjz; the WUR number is on the top of the WUR. You have to look down on it between the #1 and #2 intake runners, and you will have to push the lines out of the way. You probably will not be able to see the first set of numbers because the top vacuum line will be partial covering them. The sequence of numbers will be close to this: 438 140 089. The 438 140 will be raised numbers, and the last 3 digits will be stamped. The last 3 are the important ones. Yours should also be 089.

The FD has an ID plate on the back (rear of the car). You will see it if you remove the air filter cover. Mine is 148153 041. Yours should be the same.

I was looking on the top of the WUR and didn’t see it. It’s all clean too!

[PeteKz]

Let's see if I can post pictures of mine.

Sorry, I'm not able to upload pictures from either my phone or computer. I wonder why Pelican Forums does this from time to time...

[vjz]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

Let's see if I can post pictures of mine.

Sorry, I'm not able to upload pictures from either my phone or computer. I wonder why Pelican Forums does this from time to time...

Appreciated, Pete.

I had trouble uploading pics as well earlier.

[PeteKz]

Yeah, I dunno what's up with the Pelican Forum and posting pics. I've been able to do it before, but not now. Let me describe it as best I can. My thermo valve is mounted on a small L bracket, about 1.5" by 1.5" that is bolted to one of the studs that holds the throttle linkage on the top of the engine. The vacuum fittings face to the back of the car. It would be really easy to make an L bracket and move it to that location.

[vjz]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

Yeah, I dunno what's up with the Pelican Forum and posting pics. I've been able to do it before, but not now. Let me describe it as best I can. My thermo valve is mounted on a small L bracket, about 1.5" by 1.5" that is bolted to one of the studs that holds the throttle linkage on the top of the engine. The vacuum fittings face to the back of the car. It would be really easy to make an L bracket and move it to that location.

Maybe I'll check out the hardware store for something that doesn't look cheesy.

If you could take a picture, that would be great. If you can't get it to load here, PM me and I can give you my cell. I'd love to see it!

[ADDvanced]

Post on imgur (free) and post the link here.

[vjz]

Well. My vacuum lines didn’t come so I repainted the original coil and added a new decal. I also replaced the filler neck lines/hose.

They weren’t nasty but for $10 it’s a good thing

[vjz]

Finally got the pics to load. Nothing crazy but a quick project from last night and today.

My dad has been in and out of the hospital so work on this has been crawling

[vjz]

A little update.

I was just making sure that all the airbox screws were tight. All were with the exception of one, which was on the right side of the screw sets. It spins but doesn't tighten.

I found this thread from impact bumpers:

https://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/index.php?/topic/31486-coming-back-with-a-bang/

One guy had said that the screw doesn't tighten.

I'm leaning towards the fact that maybe I do, indeed, have a blown airbox. Time to find a smoke test machine, because I doubt it will start with a blown box? I am still going to flush fuel through it to see.

After the fiance graduates with her RN this weekend I am hoping to get more time doing diag. But that screw thing was interesting, and with no pop off valve, it could have backfired and then the guy just parked it.

Here's a few shots of where I stand with a cleaned up engine. It's nice to be able see now where things may leak from.

I did make it a little snazzy for personal preference (I know many of you hate this, but fortunately it isn't your vehicle). Plugs are new, wires are new, cap/rotor are new. I also made an L bracket for the thermo valve and located it on the back stud of the auto blower that I remove. I am going to backdate the heat at some point.

Very slow work, but with one or two nights a week, Hopefully I can make some progress.

[PeteKz]

vjz: I don't recall if this fine point was discussed earlier in this thread--the top of the air box screws to the bttom of the airbox with some compression, but not all the way down, becuase there are supposed to be little springs around the screws between the top and bottom sections. Those allow the top to pop up slightly from the bottom to relieve backfire pressure, and that's why there is a foam gasket between the halves too. Most people don't know that and have just screwed them down tight. Supposedly, if those are properly installed, you don't need the backfire pop valve, however, I still think those are a good addition. Anyway, refer to your manuals and past threads about this, and carefully inspect to see that those springs are in there and the foam gasket is intact. And install a pop valve.

Do the smoke test to see if/where you have any leaks.