CV Boot Replacement, 1988 Porsche 911 Cab

[Tobydog61]

I’m on the final steps of a complete suspension refresh and notice I’ve got a split CV boot. I see a lot of videos and posts on older axles where both ends are removable but nothing on later models with the one fixed end. I assume the one end is removed and the boot for the fixed end is replaced from the opposite end? Do you typically just repack the fixed end if it’s not contaminated or just use tones of brake cleaner to flush it? Removing the axle nut is gonna require buying 3/4” drive tools and I’m debating on using that money to just get it done by my shop when it goes in for an alignment.

[Packin4]

My '87 is in the same situation as yours and I thought the same solution but have a few other items to address first. Hopefully somebody with experience will be chiming in....

[Tobydog61]

Thanks. Isn’t it strange that nothing out there addresses the later axles?

[ben parrish]

Yes..that’s how you do it. Take one end off. I rebuilt both my CV,s years ago not because the joints were worn out but because I had a split CV boot. “While you are in there” takes over in this instance. If original, your CV grease is 37 years old…what can refreshing it hurt?
When I did mine, my CV joints looked good with minimal wear showing. Be careful on what boots you choose, there were some a few years ago that were splitting within a few years of replacement.

[Tobydog61]

Thanks Ben. I just wish one of the videos was for my type of CV. I think I know what I’m in for, will see. My car has low mileage so my plan is to just repack fixed end if clean grease and not flush it out. Then clean and repack the other end.

[wazzz]

I did this job a few years ago on my 88. Cleaned and flushed the fixed end as much as I could, then repacked with new grease and put new boot. I changed the CV and boot on the other end as it was easier and cheap. Dirty job though.
Did this on both sides and also changed all Allen bolts.
I used my air impact to remove the big nut and it came off easy.

[WMichelsen]

Originally Posted by Tobydog61

... I just wish one of the videos was for my type of CV.

Totally agree. I noticed the same when I was planning for this repair. Even though the CV boot parts description listed the later years, all the repair process write-ups assumed disassembly of the CV joint. Can't do that on the one-piece end. (I ended up replacing the axles, so never did the CV boots.)

Please take a video of your repair, or a set of still pics, and post the process.

[mtb001]

I rebuilt mine at home first time; second time took to drive shaft shop to avoid mess, cost was minimal

[PeteKz]

Yes, the CV joint grease is extra-special messy.

[Tobydog61]

Quick update. Really struggled to get the axle nuts off. Used a 3/4” breaker bar with a reducer to 1/2” for my sockets I have, snapped it right off. Borrowed my son in laws Milwaukee 1/2” mid torque and got them right off! I’m buying one. The trans mount Allen bolts I thought were very difficult to remove. Took a long time to remove two, rotate the axle, set the brake, repeat. Tough job. I’m taking the axles to a local shop for cleaning, degrease, and boot instal.

[GH85Carrera]

That rear nut torques back down to something like 325 pound feet. I got my rear nuts close, and went to a truck stop with my socket, and a $20 in hand. I walked up to the work bay and asked the first mechanic if he would torque down two nuts with my socket for $20. He did not reply, but walked out with a 3 foot long torque wrench, In seconds he was done, and he took the $20 handed me back my socket, and walked back in to work.

[wazzz]

Originally Posted by Tobydog61

Quick update. Really struggled to get the axle nuts off. Used a 3/4” breaker bar with a reducer to 1/2” for my sockets I have, snapped it right off. Borrowed my son in laws Milwaukee 1/2” mid torque and got them right off! I’m buying one. The trans mount Allen bolts I thought were very difficult to remove. Took a long time to remove two, rotate the axle, set the brake, repeat. Tough job. I’m taking the axles to a local shop for cleaning, degrease, and boot instal.

I removed all Allen bolts with my 1/2 square impact and proper extension. Didn't even need to set the parking brake on, so that I could freely rotate the axle to get the best access for each bolt. All bolts came off quite easily thanks to the power of my air impact.

When the time came to install the axles back on the car, since I had no helper and didn't want to face the hassle of having to go under the car, torque one Allen bolt, go back to the cabin to release the brake, crawl back underneath to turn the axle for the next bolt access, go back to the cabin to set the brake on, etc., I put the big axle nut back on the axle and torqued it some. I then used a 3/4 ratchet with proper socket and a pipe fitted on the ratchet handle that was long enough to rest on the floor. That way I could set the ratchet to the proper direction to allow me to torque each Allen bolt while allowing me to also turn the axle by hand in the opposite direction. I stayed all the time under the car and didn't have to get out and back in for each bolt.

[Tobydog61]

Good suggestion. I will try that at assembly.

[nickelplated5s]

I will always buy a tool if needed for DIY. Wife talked me into buying a magnetic drill last month, pretty cool for 1K. I did talk with some track guys a while ago. They just use zip ties for CV boots. I've tried it and they work. I also have the clamping tool for metal bands though.