Hi Jason,
Yeah the RSR+ was cool, it sure did allow for a slammed ride hieght.
Yes all the RSR+ body parts are available.
I have the 4 fenders, RSR+ rear bumper, 2 running boards and 2 front bumpers (traditional but wider RSR+ and the 935ish).
I'd let them go for a very fair price.:)

As for the wing I'll need to do a little testing.

The current element (wing) is actually John's design. He had the aeronautical engineers in his office design it. It is a low aspect wing theoretically better at lower speeds (under 120mph). I'll use it at lower speed tracks and on the street. I don't need a wing on the street, still it might look funny without a wing.

For the high speed tracks I'll try my old 6 foot long straight wing that Jae at Mirage made for me. Referred to as a high aspect ratio wing it is common on todays race cars. It would be mounted similar to how VZ935 has it on his car with the same tailbase.

So anyone interested in the deal of the decade on the complete RSR+ body kit?
PM me for details. :)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1149187188.jpg

Amen when do you know a project is done?:)

Actually 6 track days. Did a TCRA race, 2 Friday test days, the OTR event and half the PCA TT. Like that makes a diff.;)

Yeah I'm shooting for a July shake down at the PCA DE at Qualcomm stadium in San Diego.
Beach DE in the summer not a bad thing.

Projects like yours make guys like me feel middle of the road.;)
That's wild, looks like the right way to do a 918.
Let that T8 pass be an your incentive that next time (if I'm lucky) our speeds should be matched.:D

John and I did a double shift on the car Saturday, loaded up a little after dinner.
I'll finish the reassemble at home, then it's over to Mirage for a corner balance.
Time for a cold one(s), car looks 7/8th scale next to me.;)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150068913.jpg
Dr. John Simone, thumbs up on your 6 week transformation. :D
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150068976.jpg
Rear view.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150069026.jpg
O'dark thirty and it's into the trailer.
Ramp extensions worked well.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150069107.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150069128.jpg
Next event a fun beach city DE at San Diego's Qualcomm stadium mid July.
I had a great experience with John Simone and his 993 EVO transformation.
If you have a question regarding John Simone's EVO transformations you can reach him at j_simone@msn.com
Be sure to tell him you saw his latest transformation on Pelican.

Just a couple of photos first time out at a local parking lot DE.
New body worked great.
Due to the extra low ride height we have raised and widened the front fenders. John Simone did a masterful job.
Next John plans to make molds of the new front fenders.
After we get a set of new fenders out of the mold it will be ready for paint.
Here's a couple DE shots.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153157085.jpg

Looks really good Mike... Whats the hole in the rear decklid for? I know the real FIA GT2's use a hole similiar for the rain light. :D

Man..it must feel good to get her back on the road.
Car looks very mean.... How is the understeer now? ... heh,heh

One SMALL detail not even worth mentioning...I think it would look even better with quarter windows that dont look so closed. Maybe its just the pic or my eyes....

Again, car is awsome.

Thanks Jason.
Not planning any heavy rain racing. ;)
The hinged flap is for access to the cotter pin that secures the tail base.
Interesting idea converting it to a hinged 3rd brake light.

Thank you herman, yes very much a relief to be just about over the building phase.
Funny you ask, no understeer here.:o
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153162957.jpg
Actually the aero did not really kick in too much as it was just a 2nd and 3rd gear track.
In addition to driver error my off was the result of a couple of issues.
I was on a set of used slicks that were very slow to heat up.
I had my brake bias set up perfectly, for when the tires are hot.
So after 10 minutes of track time the brakes are 100% the front tires warm but the rear did not heat up enough till the last 5 minutes of the session.
The spin happened about 8 minutes into the session, great brakes but no rear tire grip.
I put my new Kumho 710s on, problem solved.
I am not buying anymore used slicks.

Yes the proportions of the rear quarter windows will look more correct when I paint the inside portion of the white window frame black.

More photos from Greg Phillips the club photographer.
I had some cheap clear shelf paper on the nose to control the rock chips in the gel coat.
Thanks for your interest.:)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153163651.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153163626.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153163610.jpg

mike - great looking car. I noticed the windows too but agree it will look much better when the mounting surface is painted black.

question - what is your ground clearance at the front spoiler/dam area? Did you scrape at all?

just freaking awesome! The cool part was the FG parts as you go...lucky man.

About 3 inches with 25 gallons of fuel in the cell.
This is a new AIR part that we did modify for added ground clearance on the sides below the cooler exits.
Before it did slope down under the cooler exits, the Getty EVO nose does not?

The nose scraped once or twice during for the first session when the temp. track had a 90 degree approach to a gutter/swale crossing.
I was slowing for that and taking it at an angle, some of the higher cars were hitting or getting airborne on that.
They angled the swale xing to basically my line, problem solved.
The early session head on track design approach was a bit optimistic.

It's low but streetable, just need to be careful.
Blue car belongs to a corner worker, DB meter and hot lap tx on tri pods.
Here's a photo of the new black asphalt swale transition.
Is the 914 project progressing nicely?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153170949.jpg

Yeah lucky to have such talented resource in our PCA region, John Simone.

I am setting my front splitter height at about 3" - yours just appeared lower, but photos can be deceiving. I am hoping to not catch an edge on that splitter - that could be disasterous to the front end at good speed. :(

I plan to run a rubberized dam of some sort attached to the splitter about 1.5" off the ground to cut off the wind from going under the car and won't mind if that drags a little. Sheet aluminum doesn't bend and go back ;)

It is getting there - I am a really impatient and difficult bastard frankly and I want everything to be "just right" so it is taking longer than AJ expected. I am hoping to have it back in a couple more weeks, then I have a few weeks of work to do to have it running again (have to completely replumb the car to reflect all the changes and the new dry sump setup). Making a new wiring harness from scratch will be my biggest PITA as I am not too good with the electrical stuff. It takes me an hour to figure out an issue when a relay fails :D So I expect the harness to be a week in the making - on a good note I am converting to a Painless "Hot Rod" fuse box that will clean everything up and get rid of those outdated fuses the older cars have.

Yeah besides ending your day, and the cost of the nose and oil coolers add another 20+ hours to get it all stripped and the new nose and coolers fitted and painted.:(
Must not go off!

I am very interested in the painless fuse box with GM style fuses.
I do want to keep the stock appearing dash set up for now.
Good luck with your project thanks for the update.
Hope to see you at another OTR event soon.:)

Hey Ted,

What size wheels and tires are you running here?

The black rims are 18x10.5 and 13 with Yoko slicks.
The silver centered rims are 17x10.5 and 13 with Kumho 275/40 and 335/35 DOT-R tires.
That picture has the black rims in front and silver rims in the rear.
I normally would not mix those rims/tires but my used 18 inch rear slicks turned out to be worthless.

Here is a link to the fuse box I am using - click on "fuse blocks" in the middle of the menu, then scroll down to the 12-circuit Pro-Street #50101. They have an 18-circuit one too if you have a lot of electrical stuff. I have a bunch of stuff, but the current draw on each item is low enough that I can double up items on one fuse (just like the stock car has almost every light on one fuse :) )

They give names to each fuse, but that is easily overlooked and you can wire it any way you want to.

http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog.php

The issue with the 914 (and so I suspect the 911 tho' I can't say for certain) is that the fuses tend to be inline between the powered switch (always 12v+) and the item the switch is activating. So, headlights for example = the switch has 12V supplied 100% of the time. You turn on the headlights, and the switch supplies 12v to the headlight wire, which goes to thru the fuse box.

On the GM/Painless stuff, the 12V+ is fused, NOT the wire to the item. So, I am making a custom harness to make my life easier since the car is so much different than the stock 914 was (no more relay board, dash gauges are totally different, no more seat belt buzzer garbage, radio, interior light, on and on).

To convert wouldn't be too hard tho'. It would be a matter of extending some 12V feeds thru the new box and splicing/soldering the feed wires to the item at the old fuse box location.

Long winded, but hopefully clear. I spent a few nights at home with graph paper, the stock wiring diagram, and the fuse box on my lap laying out a new, simple harness for all my goodies.

The thing I like most is a new relay is dirt cheap and at any FLAPS, unlike the stock relays. I have a box of them from parted cars just for that reason :p Same thing with the fuse - easy to find and if I blow one, worst case I have a spare in the tow vehicle's fuse block.

I just ran into this thread and I see you are thinking of using the Painless Wiring fusebox on your car. I did this last year on my track car using the street/race harness and their 8 switch box on my '74 911. PO had made a mess of the harness, I figured I was better off starting from scratch. They have good manuals, but it took some thinking and pre planing.

Before you start, you really have to study the OEM wiring colors and figure out how each circuit works. Ended up reusing some of the round, black relays for fuel pump and electromotive system. I also created a master book of all circuits and wire colors and were they connected. That is necessary in order to go back and troubleshoot in the future. System has been in place for over a year and I had no electrical problems.

Kits are meant for front engine cars, so some wires might be a tad short. I ended up splicing part of the 14 pin connector and wiring right by the starter. Soldered and heat shrank all wires. I wanted to maintain the plug and play capabilty when dropping the engine. My car is street legal and saved 14# (7 Painless vs 21# for OEM harness). I have aded a couple of 12v PC fans for defrosters and a couple of 12v heaters controlled by spare circuits in panel, it can be chilly in Pocono in the Spring!

Including some pictures... Good Luck! Lou

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153183887.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153183915.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153183966.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153184032.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153184175.jpg