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Carbon Emitter
 
jkarolyi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
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I 'd like to see a picture of the special tool the hood strut installer gets to use at the Porsche factory.

Old 10-30-2006, 07:56 AM
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Try working on the back of the dash on an MGB. At the factory they install all the wires and gauges for the dash while it is out of the car and then weld the dash in place! No access through the fire wall. You have to reach up behind the dash in a contortionist fashing to do anything.
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Kurt V
No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles.
Old 10-30-2006, 08:25 AM
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cycling has-been
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by jkarolyi
I 'd like to see a picture of the special tool the hood strut installer gets to use at the Porsche factory.
enjoy

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Old 10-30-2006, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jkarolyi
I 'd like to see a picture of the special tool the hood strut installer gets to use at the Porsche factory.
They probably put it in before they put in the fuel filler pipe. Replacing the driver's side hood strut is easy, if you first remove the fuel filler pipe. The job takes less than half an hour.
Old 10-30-2006, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
[i]

This is no doubt the reason why they went to thicker rubber gaskets with the LWB cars. [/B]
Definitely!
Old 10-30-2006, 09:10 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by bkreigsr
my personal favorite...
unfastening and refastening the eight 10mm nuts that hold the air diverter to the back of the alternator, under the shroud, behing the fan, and the housing, with the wires going thru the center hole. now there's a handful while the engine is in the car.
Bill K
Ohhhh yesssssssssss perhaps I need to bump this to number 2. Steep climber in the charts!

Michel
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Old 10-30-2006, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kurt V
Try working on the back of the dash on an MGB. At the factory they install all the wires and gauges for the dash while it is out of the car and then weld the dash in place! No access through the fire wall. You have to reach up behind the dash in a contortionist fashing to do anything.
That is the main reason why they went bust
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My dad always found an excuse why not to buy a Porsche, so I guess I am all out of excuses.
Old 10-30-2006, 10:09 AM
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I've installed the hood struts twice now, once on my SC and once on my 3.2. If I were to do it again now, as it needs, I'd feel like Lewis and Clarke going back to do another journey of discovery.

All time hardest job was changing the rear wheel bearings. Least favorite is repacking CV joints. Imagine the shmuck who had that job at the factory!! Makes wiring the defroster look like a job for wimps.
Old 10-30-2006, 08:30 PM
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Replacing the speedometer cable on my '72 was the worst... so far.
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Old 10-30-2006, 08:42 PM
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Clutch pedal spring - YIKES!

I nearly shot my top row of teeth out...
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Old 10-30-2006, 11:29 PM
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Location: Mansfield, TX
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Quote:
Originally posted by bkreigsr
my personal favorite...
unfastening and refastening the six 10mm nuts that hold the air diverter to the back of the alternator, under the shroud, behind the fan, and the housing, with the wires going thru the center hole. now there's a handful while the engine is in the car.
Bill K
I'll second that one!!!!! (but I still need to replace my hood strut )
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88 Targa - Mostly stock except cat bypass, SW Chip.
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Old 10-31-2006, 05:20 AM
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Gon fix it with me hammer
 
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4mm door gaps on a 30 year old Targa that's been apart for paint

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Old 10-31-2006, 05:53 AM
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Doors, hood shocks, alternator bolts, SWB guages are all good ones but I think the biggest PITA is... aligning door window frames. I dont mean just bolting them in but getting them perfect! There are a million adjustment possibilities and I think I could build a whole 911 in the time it takes to get that damn door to shut correctly once the window frames are in!!!
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Old 10-31-2006, 06:35 AM
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I've done the alternator twice. It's nothing like my Chevy truck...

Hood shocks twice also. Used long needle nose pliers while rocking lid up/down with my head after supporting lid in open position with piece of wood. Lots of light help also.

Least I forget ... removing front caliper bolts AFTER mechanic tighten them to 100 ft-lbs AND removing the tie-rods when turbo tie-rod instructions FAILED to mention loosening locking plate to rack/pinion steering.

Old 10-31-2006, 11:16 AM
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