Steering Column Bushing...

Mitch Leland · Mitch Leland's Garage

I've read the PP Tech article on replacing the steering column bushing. I've ordered one from our host, but in the between time I'm removed the steering wheel. The Tech article calls for the removal of a "C" (cir) clip. What I have looks like a large external star washer. The tabs of the star washer are hooked into place.

Before I move ahead does anyone have any directions on the installation. Also it appears the tech article says nothing about removing the old nylon bushing. It appears that you drive down the old bushing with the new steel bushing, is that correct?

Thanks,

Barrpete · 07-09-2008, 02:27 PM

I did this fix on mine about 2 years ago. I don't remember having to remove a circlip. IIRC the whole process took about 15 mins.

And yes you just tap the new steel bushing in and it will force the broken nylon one out of the way.

Barrpete · 07-09-2008, 02:28 PM

I did this fix on mine about 2 years ago. I don't remember having to remove a circlip. IIRC the whole process took about 15 mins.

And yes you just tap the new steel bushing in and it will force the broken nylon one out of the way.

Mitch Leland · Mitch Leland's Garage

BP,

I've done some more searching and I think the Pelican Tech article was for an early car, but does not say so. I wish a panel of "experts" would go back through those tech articles and dot the eyes and clean them up sometime. The articles are really only a help to the novice so I think they should be more detailed.

Since I have an "84" and you an "86" I'm sure you're correct, so a big thanks...

Barrpete · 07-09-2008, 02:58 PM

Mitch,

There was also a thread started by John Walker a few month back about applying some sort of lube to the bushing so that it didn't cause excessive wear. Check this thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=372487&highlight=walker

Mitch Leland · Mitch Leland's Garage

Thanks BP,

I caught John's suggestion, and it's a good one... You've gotta love this web site.

rusnak · 07-09-2008, 11:22 PM

Mitch,

I looked at mine, and I do have the c clip or circlip (see #13 on the diagram).

I installed the steering shaft sleeve, but I think in retrospect it's only a temporary fix. I bought a steering shaft bushing, but I think it might have to wait until the weather cools off a bit. I'll see if I can figure out an easier way than removal of the entire steering column. The white plastic part is what gets brittle and breaks.

Mitch Leland · Mitch Leland's Garage

Russ,

You're right... I do have a "C" clip, it's just not where I thought it should be. Plus the opening of the clip was looking down at 6 o'clock. The PP Tech article pix is different than ours (earlier car?), your pictures really clear up the location of the "C" clip. Your pixs should be submitted to the Tech person for upgrading.

I really appreciate your response.

Thanks, it will be interesting to see if you find an easy way to remove the entire bearing for replacement. I need to look at the steering column again, but could you drill an 1/8" hole in the bearing face, run a sheet metal screw into the bearing face and use a slide hammer to remove? Keep us posted...

rusnak · 07-10-2008, 12:07 PM

Hi Mitch,

Yup, I was thinking exactly that. My neighbor tried this on his wife's Toyota Land Cruiser and he ended up ruining the journal for the seal . This is a little ball bearing, so I don't think I can botch it up too badly. I was only going to post pics if I succeed though.

You know, if it was that easy, why do so many really sharp guys install the sleeve? I think the new bearing is so much better.

I have a few small hook tools from Irwin Tool Co. I'll try working on it and get back here if I have any new news.

Mitch Leland · Mitch Leland's Garage

Russ,

However if it's the plastic bushing that goes bad then why mess with the bearing. It seems like if you replace the plastic bushing with a steel one you would be improving the longevity of the entire unit.

The only thing better would be a oil bronze bushing. I wonder why there's not an after market bushing in Naval Bronze? I'm sure the material would be more expensive, but the manufacturing cost should be the same, at least I think...

4flyboy · 4flyboy's Garage

Hi Mitch,

The sleeve replacement (actually a 928 part) is simply driven (slid) down over the old one. I don't recall a clip at all. Very simple about 15 min. total. I haven't dome the bearing job though. Good luck.

Scott

4flyboy · 4flyboy's Garage

Hi Mitch,

The sleeve replacement (actually a 928 part) is simply driven (slid) down over the old one. I don't recall a clip at all. Very simple about 15 min. total. I haven't dome the bearing job though. Good luck.

Scott

rusnak · 07-10-2008, 12:27 PM

That's a good point you have, Mitch.

I will go back and re-check my sleeve to see if it is rotating with the steering shaft. If so, then the old bushing balls must be turning between some sort of inner and outer race. If there is a tight enough fit to prevent the sleeve from slipping relative to the steering shaft, the this would be a permanent fix, and would avoid the problems associated with the John Walker thread. Maybe the problems occur if the ball bearing becomes damaged in the modification process.

burgermeister · burgermeister's Garage

subscribed ...

rusnak · 07-10-2008, 01:46 PM

I just got back to the office from getting something to eat. I still have my wrench in the car, so I pulled the steering wheel off again.

When turning the steering wheel shaft, the sleeve turns with the shaft, then stops while the shaft continues to turn. I think this is where the wear on the steering shaft happens. I think the sleeve is not thick enough to hold on to the steering shaft, making the shaft, sleeve, and inner bearing race act as one piece.

Maybe like I said, it could be possible that the bearing was somehow damaged when I tapped the sleeve onto the shaft. From what I recall, it went on pretty easily though.

trusouth · 07-10-2008, 01:59 PM

I replaced the bearing without taking the whole steering column off, but it was really difficult and I would not recommend it unless you have the time and patience.

Also, when you put the bushing on if any old ball bearings fall out make sure that you take the ignition out, so you can get all of the ball bearings out. The ball bearings will bind on the key lock for the ignition causing the steering wheel to lock.

The ball bearings will roll to the bottom of the steering column, so if take the ignition off they will roll out the slot for the steering wheel lock - a magnet helps.

Mark

rnln · 07-10-2008, 02:11 PM

sighh... another thing to worry about. I bought the sleeve long time ago from PP but never have a chance to install it yet, lucky I didn't. Let us know what you find Rusnak.

another thought, how about using from JB weld when installing the sleeve, between sleeve and the bearing?

Mitch Leland · Mitch Leland's Garage

Mark,

You lost me on why and how to remove the ignition and how that relates to the steering column. I understand the lock-out feature of the ignition at the steering column, I guess I need to remove my steering wheel again to see what you mean.

If the bearings are ball bearings, then if they could fall out they must need grease. Also how could they fall out if the steering column is still in place. It would seem like the bearings should have been needle bearings for this application.

For this set up to work right I would guess that the I.D of the bushing should be fixed or tight to the the steering column, then the O.D. of the bushing would rotate on the bearing race. I bet the ball bearings in time just eat into the bushing since there's only a single point of contact.

Doesn't sound like a real good engineering. Interesting that my steering wheel was tight one day, and lose the next. I had to vacuum the bits and pieces out of the cavity, the bushing just disintegrated. And I was worried about how to get the old one out...

rusnak · 07-10-2008, 11:44 PM

Here's what it looks like with the c clip and the star washer removed:

It looks very difficult to get at the bearing from behind. I think the choices are either take the whole steering column out, and pound the bearing with a very very long punch, or try to pull on it from the front in situ. The second option I don't even know what kind of tool to use, and the drill and pull method is sounding better and better to me.

ramonesfreak · ramonesfreak's Garage

i installed the replacement metal 928 sleeve as a protective measure. i wish i hadnt. i dont detect any "damage" to the shaft itself but, my sterring wheel is now a little loose. hard to measure it but it probably moves a few centimeters up and down - not in and out. its very very annoying because i now also get a little vibration through the steering wheel when i hit bumps or rough road.

if your original bearing is still ok - i would suggest using the sleeve ONLY when the original one falls apart

Seems to me the sleeve is engineered slightly too thin. its obviously better than driving around with a crumbled bearing - but, if it aint broke i wouldnt fix it. too late for me now