I used high heat silicon aircraft hoses. I think it was the SCAT from Aircraft spruce. I would avoid the aluminum because it doesn't hold up to abuse as well and tends to heat and crack over time.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1263256863.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1265045083.jpg
modified original parts and fiberglassed them, took about 3 hours and was a free upgrade

If you buy used 930 parts they will fit.

I like to do the same rig on my 1983 911 SC. What parts do I need and where can I get them? Does any one have the parts for sale????

Thanks,
Glenn

Backdate
 

Hi
I just purchased the LHS heater delete plate for my 3.2.

PEL-SM-LEFT
Block Off Plate, Left Side Fan Housing, Black Fiberglass, 911 (1965-89), Not pre-drilled for hardware****[More Info]

My question is what happens to the pipe that exits through the tin to the heat exchangers on the LHS?

Cheers

Are you attempting to delete your heat or back-date? Block-off plate = delete. Backdate = eliminate blower in engine compartment using these:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1281318763.jpg

I am now in process of my heater backdate. I had a set of early metal ducts and one left side plastic one. I was hesitant to smash away at the nice metal left one for dizzy clearance. The plastic duct could fit with no modification but I broke out the heat gun and used a large socket to form a bigger indent and when finished could probably pull the dizzy out if needed without interfearance. Lighter as well. Now I'll need to make a right side.

Anyone know the applications of what got metal and what got plastic ducts and if a right side one in plastic was available?

Terry

Has anyone done this with a 3.6 in an early chassis? Is the replacement tin the same?

Just finished this mod on my SC using the quick-n-dirty method (Quick ‘n’ Dirty 911 SC Heater Backdate) for the right side and a used Ebay piece from Doc Ramsay for the left. I had no dizzy clearance issues at all.

If I were to do it again I'd probably use 2.25" diameter 90 degree pipe instead of 2.5 to give more clearance and to match the factory 2.25 diameter outlet on the left side (2.5" SKEET fits fine on either 2.25 or 2.5). Price for 90 degree pipe is $9.95 from Mandrel Bending Solutions.

Not tested under extreme conditions yet but I had to turn down the heat this morning (dry Colorado weather with temps in the 40s).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330572788.jpg

From what I understand, the early cars all used metal ducts. If you're talking about what I think you're talking about, the plastic one is the original one that fed the blower motor. I bought both metal ones from our host and, like you, used a socket to "massage" the left side one to clear the distributor. Then I found out that the 930 is shaped so that it clears the distributor.

The 3.6 is completely different. I've seen some creative solutions so that the tubing is all under the engine tin so that you never see any of the heat items, and the cooling fan is still driving the exhaust heat. The factory simplified solution were in RS cars, and it still used the factory outlet, but instead of tubing being routed into the engine compartment to a blower motor, it was routed under the tin to a diverter that spread the heat to the heat exchangers.

Here is a comparison of the metal versus plastic duct. I was minutes away from cutting the section out to weld in a curved piece. I remembered I had the plastic one and dug it out just to see if it were easier to mod than the metal.

The plastic is slightly narrower than the metal one. Broke out the heatgun and large socket to massage a small indent at the bottom. I used a bit too much heat and got a wrinkle but it will be hidden by the dizzy.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330608805.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330608980.jpg


I didn't get a finished pic but can add it later if needed.

Terry

Never saw that one before. The 930 part has what looks like a pipe grafted into it to clear the distributor. If it fits that's pretty cool, and worth finding the origin of it. Is there a part number cast onto it?

Hi Will, here is a pic of the part number, I haven't taken time to look it up. And one of where I melted it. The plastic was not becoming elastic so I turned up the heat and it quickly softened, more than I needed it to.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330612609.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330612674.jpg
Terry

Dammit you guys!!! Now I want to do this too.

I use the ones sell by our host. I did not have to hammer but its a very tight fit.

Installed the dizzy first, then the duct and then wire 3 & 6.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330633322.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330633340.jpg

JJ911sc. Do you have a part number for that k& n filter...looks way better than the stock air box

Mike

Got it from PP. Made by Evolution Motorsport Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-INTK911

Cost: $195

Add HP: Zero

Sound: Better but don't ear it anymore with the SSIs & MK 2in/2out :eek:

Look: Priceless :D:D:D

Had to fabricate a bracket to support the filter because it would rip from vibrating on the air intake

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330641395.jpg

Sub'd and bumped. Best overall heater backdate thread.

I've got an '84 and I just can't see how you do the right hand side. I got the part about removing the AC and bracket but I didn't seen how the RH back date part would go in there. Do you have some other angles of the way that goes in there?

Thanks,

Jeff

I have a '74 which is what people are backdating too. I can tell you that even on the coldest day (say 30 degrees or a little bit lower) the car is warm and toasty. You can even burn your feet if you keep the heat blasting.

The only issue with the backdate is that when warming the car up, and the car's been parked outside, and the windows are fogged up - it will take a little longer to defrost all the windows from cold.

You lose your power fan for the heat but you still have the engine fan pushing air into the cabin so I wouldn't worry that you will come anything close to losing heat.