heater backdate
 

Before I get flamed, I have done the searches and found pretty much everything I need, except a definitive answer to this. Other than cleaning up the engine bay and looking cool, are there any advantages to back dating the heat? Will the heat still work when I pull up the leavers in the middle? I am ready to jump in with my first backdate project, just wanted some clarifiaction

Yes the heat levers work the same as they always have.

Heat still works as normal... except there's no heater fan forcing hot air into the cabin.

So at idle, on a cold day, you'll notice decreased heating.

The only thing powering the heater is the engine cooling fan. When it's turning over slowly (at idle), there's less hot air flow coming into the cabin. If stopped in traffic, reving the engine from time to time helps.

Sure looks nice to have all that junk out of there, though.

Thats what i needed to know. Is there an anything I need to block off in regards to the blower assembly, or just yank it out and reduct as per the backdate.

Remove the blower and stand, remove the 3 hoses. You can leave the wire plug for the heater fan where it is as long as it can't short out. You may want to reinstall the heater fan at some later time.

Remove the duct and block-off plate (L & R) on the sides if the cooling fan.

Install the new downward facing ducts on each side of the cooling fan and run new hoses through the metal shield to the heat exchangers.

Good to go.

thanks. Looks like I need to order some parts.

Some of the right side fan ducts are one-piece, some are 2 piece. Some are plastic, some are metal. 2 piece are all metal, I think.

The left side duct may need to be bent slightly (usually metal) to fit around the SC distributor, but there are also ducts that already fit (usually plastic).

I just did this on my 82 SC. The right fan outlet was one metal piece and it fit without modification. Very easy.

The left fan outlet did interfere with my dizzy. I had to bend it which I found to be difficult. The outlet was once piece but had a seam. The seam cracked when I tried to manipulate the shape of the outlet. I am not happy with the result as there is a 1/4 inch gap where the outlet meets with the fan housing. It has not affected engine cooling though.

Each outlet is nearly $90.

Your heater and defroster will work better with the backdate. I have a 75 and the blower fan in the engine bay just puffs the air in slowly.

After the backdate the car gets too hot to fast and I have to keep the levers only partially pulled or i'll fry my feet.

The windshield defrosts a lot faster too.
You can hear the air just blowing through the thing.

One of the cheapest and best improvements to make.

thanks for all the info. Looks like I will be tackling the backdate after I return from my next business trip. What hoses should I use?

Will the air conditioning mount interfere with right side heater update hardware? All of the pictures I've seen with this update show no A/C installed. It looks like the blower outlet and new hose should fit under the A/C mount, but I can't tell from pictures of the right backdate shroud. If anyone has successfully mounted the backdate hardware with A/C, can you tell me if there's a difference in fit between the plastic and metal options?

Thanks,
Fritz

I have A/C and I had no problems installing the right fan outlet. I was expecting the right side to be more difficult than the left.

I think they are called "neoprene" or something. Don't use the aluminum hoses with the paper wrapping. These are not flexible at all compared to the neoprene hoses.

I used 100% Al hoses from our host, love em!
I got metal heater ducts, no modification needed on the left one (turbo model).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222992843.jpg
Aurel

Yeah, those hoses look good.

I am talking about the kind that are paper (i think) with an aluminum lining. Although they have some flexibility, they won't make the hard angles.

B ecarteful
 

I purchased a backdate heat tube for my 87-930 (from our host) and my air-conditioning would not fit. The exiting tube on the passenger side of the car exited roughly an inch higher than the stock (plastic) tube so I had to modify (strengthen) my existing tube as I was in a rush to get the car back together.

If you have air.... beware. PM me your number if you need more info and I will be happy to explain. I had a thread on this exact topic before so that our host might change the description for people with air to alleviate returns but I don't think it was ever changed.

Bryan

I think this is the answer I'm looking for. I have found so many articles on this subject, but no step by step procedures and recommendations on how to.

I have a 78sc a/c delete and realize I really don't use the heat and may as well remove all the crap that the heater blower utilizes.

So, do I just order left and right hose ducts made for backdate, remove motor and use the old hose to make 2 new hoses and done?

I just did the backdate on my 78 SC engine. I spent quite a while with the hammer pounding both the right and left side ducts into shape. Neither side fit well enough for my liking. After pounding them into shape I filled any uneven surfaces and gave them the wrinkle paint treatment.

I used the stock right side but epoxed a 90˚ PVC 21/2" elbow to a hole I cut in it , almost free. And I used the SCAT hose from Aircraft Spruce, makes the tight turns and maintains shape, good to 500˚F
Heat works better now than the old "new" system did!
The left side takes a little messageing to fit but not a big deal.

I was thinking of purchasing the backdate heater kit from Zims Autotechnik for $150.00 and saving myself some time. Anyone try this kit as a solution?