2.7 HP mods?

[ClickClickBoom]

Just wondering?
What are the popular 2.7 HP mods? From mild to wild. Not looking for forced induction though. And the big question what are the yields for each mod. Not trying to get 300 HP, but 175 would be nice!
eric

[911pcars]

RS specs are quite doable:

RS pistons/cylinders or equivalent
large port heads and valves
early heat exchangers
Webers or MFI

With S cams, about 200 hp
With E cams, about 180 hp

Many opt for cubic inches using a later engine. Depending on the circumstances and details, this path might be more cost effective.

Sherwood

[ael911]

There is a lot of information on this topic and I am sure you will be reading for days if you do a search. Be careful though as it is a very slippery slope if you start looking for hp, before you know it, you could be $10 grand deep.

According to Bruce Anderson, if you are just starting out from stock, the biggest benefit would be a set of SSI heat exchangers and a good exhaust muffler. That should give you another 15 to 20 hp if I remember correct. Carburetors should come next and ultimately S cams and some high dome pistons. With those mods you should be able to see about 220 hp and still keep it within the street driveablity level.

[Wyvern]

Similar question and also 2.7

What about the basic bolt on:

Air Filter
Header
Exhaust
Ignition

This combo should get to 175 HP

Always keeping in mind that a well tuned car maybe doesn't have more HP ... but will be more responsive and let you take advantage of stock HP or item that only add a small amount.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by Wyvern

Similar question and also 2.7

What about the basic bolt on:

Air Filter
Header
Exhaust
Ignition

This combo should get to 175 HP

Always keeping in mind that a well tuned car maybe doesn't have more HP ... but will be more responsive and let you take advantage of stock HP or item that only add a small amount.

If the 2.7 in question is starting out at 165 hp, then the above might get you there. However, assuming the factory components are okay, air filter and ignition mods are overrated, despite the ads.and marketing hype.

Sherwood

[ClickClickBoom]

Hello,
I have a CA car, so I am pretty sure the only thing with less HP is a '63 Bug. I have peeled off the air injection system, pump included. I am going to replace the thermal destroyers with a set of "headers" that use the original heat exchangers and muffler. We will see how that goes. I am curious about getting the best bang for the buck, in the short term. I plan to do a 3.0 or 3.2 install down the road, so I don't wanna spend 10Gs on the 2.7 W/CIS. I am reluctant on buying SSIs for the 2.7 since it appears that they wont go on the 3.0/3.2 motor(true or false).
Hola
eric

[al lkosmal]

I built my 2.7 to the "high-comp RS specs" outlined in Waynes engine book.
SSI's
Weber 40IDA's
9.5:1 JE pistons
E-cams.

I didn't get this engine Dyno'd, but I've heard that this combo is good for 230HP or so.

[gsmith660]

Electronic fuel injection

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by al lkosmal

I built my 2.7 to the "high-comp RS specs" outlined in Waynes engine book.
SSI's
Weber 40IDA's
9.5:1 JE pistons
E-cams.

I didn't get this engine Dyno'd, but I've heard that this combo is good for 230HP or so.

If an RS engine has higher specs (w/the exception of 1 pt. less CR) and has 210, 230 is optimistic.

S

[ael911]

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

I am reluctant on buying SSIs for the 2.7 since it appears that they wont go on the 3.0/3.2 motor(true or false).
Hola
eric

I am almost certain this is true due to flange thickness.

[longhornchris04]

If its a CA car and still has / had all the emissions stuff, then is the engine in good shape?

I have a '75 w/ an SC motor but I did a bunch of research (including the forums here) and found that the '75s, especially the CA cars tend to have major reliability issues with valve guide wear. If those have already been rebuilt by a PO then you are fine. If not, the you are probably looking at a rebuild anyway, which

1 - costs money... perhaps more than you want if you were going to put a 3.0/3.2 from a donor vehicle in later (bad side)

2 - reduces the opportunity cost for the best HP mods. After all, even if it is just a top-end rebuild, you can put in new cams and other stuff. (good side)

As for bolt-ons, I'd second (third perhaps) the SSIs & and good sport muffler. If you aren't going to change the CIS (expensive) then a "performance" air filter won't do squat.

A bit off-topic, but if you are planning on replacing the engine, consider mods you can take to the next engine. Obviously anything non-engine (suspension, brakes, etc), as well as engine stuff that could go on the next engine. If you go with a CIS-SC motor then there should be a decent number of things that will transfer.

[911st]

Many ways to go.

A fresh 2.7S with sport muffler at about 170hp in a light car is not slow.

A 2.7 w 9.5/1 J&E's, CIS, and C2 cams is a step above.

Just slapping a set of Webber's on a 2.7s and a sport muffler can wake it up.

The classic build is E cams, RS pistons, and Webber's, and sport muffler as outlined in Bruce Anderson's book is good for about 200-210hp.

A twin plug with about 10.1/1 CR, modified S cams, and 36-38mm ports can be a very,very sweet motor can be about 225-250hp.

Still, if you are not making a major commitment to the 2.7 do not waste your time and money. They can be a nice motor if done Right but it takes a solid commitment and a tall stack of Benjamen's to do Right.

Might be better to sell the 2.7 motor for 1-2k and slip in a chipped 3.2 for about $5-6k. 5K is about half the cost a nice 2.7 can be built for and will be a fast car in a light chassis. Say 235hp with big torque.

[ael911]

I 2nd everything 911st just said. Don't pour the money into the 2.7 unless you really want a magnesium motor. More could be had for less if all you are looking for is torque and hp.

[Fishcop]

If you want quicker 2.7, take the Chapman route and add lightness... Arguably cheaper and easier than rebuilding the engine. And I've done both

[ClickClickBoom]

Hello,
The engine was rebuilt by a previous owner about 60,000 mi ago. Hydraulic tensioners, 12 blade fan, timeserts and appears to have been done by a competent shop. I have a few oil leaks, and the thermal destroyers are still on the car. I am unwilling to spend large amounts of cash on a flawed design. The upside is that the car runs well and the CIS is functioning as intended. I get a little smoke on start up and none on decell. I am removing the thermal destroyers ASAP, and will most likely focus on handling and suspension setup. Call me peculiar but I like the mid-year cars and am not a purist, so an engine swap is on the table.
Yhanks
eric

[Fishcop]

Eric, the 2.7 isn't flawed - you can actually build a really nice 2.7 and keep it very reliable - I built mine following the factory specs for the RS engine (200hp) and kept it all under 6k. But for roughly the same money, you can build a really nice alloy cased 3.0+ which will likely produce more power and last longer...

If you keep the car on CIS there are few nicer cam grinds, and combined with a nice free flowing exhaust will probably yield 15-20 more hp. Like I say though, it's just as good lightening the car and the advantage with this route is better handling.

[Flieger]

+ another on adding lightness- less mass helps the car perform in all areas- turning, braking, accelerating, and even specific fuel consumption.