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That's a sick engine stand! Makes for much easier base tuning and prolly some easy EFI adjustments before hitting the dyno.
Swapping jets and balancing while in the car can be a pain in the butt. No more sore backs and knees with that thing LOL |
Brian,
I am very interested in your gas tank from the earlier pages. Was that the std tank that you patched the old fill neck and added the short center fill or is it aftermarket/custom? Also is your front bumper w/o bumperettes stock or fiberglass? Thanks. |
The tank is a custom build - I modified an SC tank and added the center fill. There was a lot of fiberglass on the car prior to the restoration, all steel now.:D
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Painting the belly
Blee - I have been looking at pictures of Bahama Yellow for a year now and have grown to LOVE the color. I stumbled upon this thread and was thrilled to see you did a COLOR-CHANGE to Bahama Yellow. I want to also do a color-change to BY.
1 - So did you remove the original paint from the belly / underside of the chassis? What was that process like? 2 - Did you have to scrap off the rubber spray guard that the factory applied on the belly? 3 - Did you have to spray BY over any of the original color on any part of the chassis? If yes, do you have any regrets doing so? I'm OCD and am afraid I'll always know some of the original color is under the fresh BY paint. 4 - Is your paint single or two stage (base with clear)? Thank you and what a great job you did! |
Yup, no regrets choosing the Bahama Yellow. The original color - Burgundy, was not an option. Everything was stripped, Epoxy coated and painted. Under the fenders, engine compartment, under the front hood, and interior. The only area that was not stripped was the belly, because surprisingly, it was in good shape. And no, there was no factory paint found under some of the chipped undercoating. I ground down the areas, cleaned, and resprayed undercoating. Stripping under the fenders was fun, so I would imagine it would be just as fun stripping the belly. It's a messy and labor intensive process as grinding it off was the only effective method.
The only area on the car with traces of original paint was under the dash pad. I intentionally left that alone because the initials scribbled by factory Quality Control (?) was still visible. I added my initials too :). It was definitely worth the extra effort to spray the car inside and out - leaves so much options as to how much BY you want to leave exposed. The car was sprayed with single-stage Glasurit to mirror the factory process. Good luck with your project and thanks for the compliment. Cheers! |
The 2-liter has found a new home in Massachusetts - rightfully back into a 914-6! May it live long, strong, and leak-free.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif |
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Welcome back to the realm of the true unsung Porsche sports car. What it may lack in styling, is more than made up in handling the corners. But then again am preaching to the choir. Look forward to seeing it. Congratulations on the sale. What a fine ride. |
Next project...
Three-liter, circa 1978, ROW version. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541122343.jpg |
So, I have a neighbor whom we call "chief" because he used to be the Chief Engineer on a boat before retiring. The thing is, he knows how to make things, make anything, to keep the boat running I guess. The cool thing is you see, he's got this shop, with lathes, mills, presses, and everything else to build a . . . heck, a tank if you wanted! He's always looking for new projects, so I got him to do this. . . ah-hem, take a stab at opening up the ports of my heads. :eek:
He first locates the center of the hole using a multi-angle thingamagig, locks it in with digital - stuff, and then let's it rip! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541387338.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541387338.jpg |
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You can get them here in UK Wheel nuts - Stuttgart Classica
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jtidwell@speakeasy.net |
Ian... GBP 225,- hm... maybe...
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In the meantime, these came back from Millennium Technologies:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541625777.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541625777.JPG Pretty stoked with the results. Re-plated & honed to match the new JE Pistons. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541625777.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541625777.JPG |
Nice. Can't wait to see this motor go together.
Are those 10 to 1 pistons? |
10.5:1 ;)
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From the picture it almost looks like your neighbor was able to taper his bore a bit near the bottom, how much port matching will you have to do after he bores the port entry to size? Looking forward to following the rest of the motor build. Thanks as always for sharing! |
What size did you open up the cylinders to? What are your plans for the center fill tank? Will you be going through the hood? Do you have the dimensions on the tank where the center fill went in?
Thanks David |
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Yup, I got lucky. Chief found a tapered bit in his shop that matched the opening so it saved me from a bunch of additional hand massaging. The thought of my PMO intake manifolds with 42mm openings mating against a 34mm head just didn't seem right, so I opened them up to match the PMOs. I don't have the tools nor the skill to port them all the way through like the $$ pros so I just massaged the taper to make the transition smoother. It's definitely not a full-on 42mm port job, but now the ports match and there is no longer a "8mm lip" for the air to hit - I'm hoping it'll improve the flow. Do you think it’ll work Jonny? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541650923.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1541650923.jpg |
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