Thoughts on replacing hardware

[D911SC]

I've been reading a few threads on replacing hardware so that I can make a decision on how I should handle the 'tidy up' of my 83 SC.

I am not doing a complete restoration, nor do I intend to show the car. It's not a DD and I plan to only put about 2000 miles (or 3200 km's in my language) on it a year. What I am trying to achieve is to clean up the car from top to toe.

As part of this I am tackling small areas at a time, removing parts, cleaning, repainting, polishing some (sparingly though), whatever I think it needs to bring it up to a high standard.

I have tried to clean up some of the hardware with varied success. Some bolts and brackets come up well, whereas some are better off in the trash. I have already replaced some with quality stainless steel replacements, but this is where I am not 100% sure that I'm doing the right thing.

I don't want to pay $6 or so per bolt. I am not doing big sections at a time so re-plating half a dozen pieces at a time is not practical.

The point of this thread is to get your ideas on whether using stainless replacements is OK or whether I should try and source some yellow zinc hardware.

Perhaps someone has a better idea?

Thanks for your help.

Darren

PS. I know it's best to add some pics so I'll update this post in the next couple of days with some current shots

[HarryD]

If it was me, I would clean what I had and keep the "patina". It is senseless to replace functional hardware merely for the sake of replacing it.

It is even less senseless to replace with parts that have a non-factory finish.

To my way of thinking the next person who is the caretaker of the car may want to preserve the car in a well used factory state or do a 100 point restoration. Either way, non-factory parts interfere with these goals.

[D911SC]

Thanks Harry. Can't help but feel that the 'patina' look is the way to go.

In the cases where the hardware is too far gone to clean up I might try and source a local supplier of factory finish hardware (ie. limited to nuts, bolts, washers).

Is non genuine hardware like this still OK if it has the yellow zinc finish?

[steely]

I agree it's sort of dealers choice. I found varied hardware here and there - like some bolts in the eng compartment used to hold some of the tin around the perimeter of the engine - but they're functional so I leave them.

On the other hand, I found quite a few of the sheet metal screws used to hold the door pockets were rusted, some pretty bad, so I picked a few of those up.

Actual eng and suspension hardware is a different story.

I drive like you intend to by the way.

Welcome and cheers!

[HarryD]

Darren,

Glad to help!

I did not want to lead you one way or the other but I personally like the Patina approach. But then again, my car is a 3-5,000 mile/yr car that goes to work with me (on occasion), road trips and to the track.

Sometimes I have to improvise something to keep going and that is ok in my book too.

[911pcars]

I have been known to apply a coat of yellow zinc-colored spray paint to some brackets and/or fasteners. The color is often called "gold".

You're right. The cost to plate just a few fasteners isn't worth the min. charge most shops charge. An alternate method is to purchase a metric fastener kit, maybe two of them. They come with an assortment of popular nex bolts, nuts and washers. Use the ones in the kit to replace the worst of the existing hardware. Once you're replaced/accumulated a sufficient quantity of fasteners, maybe two sets worth, have the batch replated, then continue replacing, if that's what you want to do.

Sherwood

[D911SC]

Thanks for the guidance guys.

@911pcars - great idea. I am also starting to think that I'll make each project a bit bigger so I can gather enough hardware to make the re-plating worthwhile. More expensive than doing the whole lot in one hit but not too bad.

I tried to explain what I was doing to a friend of mine and he looked at me like I had some kind of disorder!

[D911SC]

Here are some pics. Not the best shots and taken before I lowered the front.

Before anyone beats me to it - next project: Align bootlid...

[kodioneill]

Hey the wheel is on the wrong side!!!!!!

[304065]

Absolutely do not swap out German-made VERBUS, KAMAX or other fasteners for modern Taiwanese made (C) or |0| headmarks. A little simichrome polish on an old t-shirt will work fine to bring the bolt head back.

That said, even new FACTORY bolts in Porsche packaging contain some Taiwan headmarks, including the ones above. They are in trivalent chromate coating, but they are the same as the ones you get at the hardware store. It's hit or miss-- I ordered a bunch of fasteners recently and came up with a few VERBUS and some Kamax in gorgeous black zinc.

Anyway, I like Sherwood's idea of replacing with new, then replating everything then putting it all back. . . sort of like painting the Mackinac bridge. Be sure to keep detailed notes of what came out of where. . . .

PS look what I picked up from the platers yesterday. . .

[D911SC]

John C - now that's what I'm talking about!! Who doesn't love a box full of shiny bits.

Thanks for the advice.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by 304065

Absolutely do not swap out German-made VERBUS, KAMAX or other fasteners for modern Taiwanese made (C) or |0| headmarks. A little simichrome polish on an old t-shirt will work fine to bring the bolt head back.

That said, even new FACTORY bolts in Porsche packaging contain some Taiwan headmarks, including the ones above. They are in trivalent chromate coating, but they are the same as the ones you get at the hardware store. It's hit or miss-- I ordered a bunch of fasteners recently and came up with a few VERBUS and some Kamax in gorgeous black zinc.

Anyway, I like Sherwood's idea of replacing with new, then replating everything then putting it all back. . . sort of like painting the Mackinac bridge. Be sure to keep detailed notes of what came out of where. . . .

PS look what I picked up from the platers yesterday. . .

John,
I wish I had thought of that. Actually, I wasn't suggesting temporary replacements while the originals are replated. However, some owners are rabid enough to want everything original, as factory-supplied, even washers.

Sherwood

[RWebb]

this will not do much to enhance the resale value of an SC, but it is costly and laborious

I'd upgrade the car in some way, put the $$ into a fund for maintenance or ....

[porschenut]

Originally Posted by RWebb

this will not do much to enhance the resale value of an SC, but it is costly and laborious

I'd upgrade the car in some way, put the $$ into a fund for maintenance or ....

That's what I was thinking. Go ahead and replace the ones with worn threads as needed, but don't spend the money or time making your fasteners pretty. Your resources are better spent elsewhere.

[80-911SC]

Originally Posted by D911SC

John C - now that's what I'm talking about!! Who doesn't love a box full of shiny bits.

Thanks for the advice.

must be a translation thing . Here we call that a "box full of shiny BOLTS"

just kidding , I had to , could resist it ..... Goodday mate !

[D911SC]

It's been suggested that I get a DIY yellow zinc plating kit. This way I can plate as much or as little I like at a time.

I looked at the prices and it's quite reasonable, not to mention very convenient.

To me this sounds like a good idea. Any reason why I shouldn't do this?

[WRGREENER]

(PS look what I picked up from the platers yesterday. . .)


A TECH QUESTION ABOUT PLATING BOLTS AND NUTS. DO YOU HAVE TO TAP & DIE SAID ITEMS AFTER PLATING? OR, IS THE LAYER SO SLIGHT THAT IT IS NOT IMPORTANT?

I HAD TO TAP A FUEL REGULATOR THAT WAS CHROME PLATED(THREADS) I DID NOT KNOW IF THIS IS A STANDARD FUNCTION OR A RANDOM SITUATION? I DID NOTICE THAT THE MANUFACTURE INCLUDED PLASTIC NIPPLES (I WAS USING BRASS).