Shifter bushing question

[realgren]

Originally Posted by megerian

Draco, I also removed the entire assembly. Getting the assembly back in, and having the shift rod go back into the no.12 bushing was (in my case) pretty tough.

I personally would like to watch the "2-hour job" being done by a pro, to see if there is a trick that I missed.

I had to work the assembly back into the tunnel at an angle with the rear pointing down, then reach back and manually force the shift rod backwards a few mm by reaching through the access panel, then simultaneously pull up on forward portion of the shift rod using a piece of rope that was looped under it. I read a few other threads that stated similar difficulties, so I didn't feel like I was the only one!

megerian: I have to thank you for that tip. There wasn't ABSOLUTELY NO WAY the shift assembly was going back in with the new bushing in place. I disconnected the shift rod from the back and jammed it down and as far back as I could. Then I jiggled the shift rod into the bushing, and the whole shift assembly went back in without a hitch. It took me an hour to figure that part out though...
Dumbest parts of this whole job is getting the back screw out from the center console. It is buried under the carpet. So annoying.

After doing it once, I definitely think it is possible to wrap this job up in 1 1/2 hour.

[PDACPA]

Guys I am tackling this project tomorrow and I have read all the threads on this install (89 G50). Where does the white part (marked with the arrow) go in the install? And which part number is it in the diagram on page 2.

Thanks

[fasteddie99]

It is #5 and fits onto #8.

[tirwin]

Guys I am tackling this project tomorrow and I have read all the threads on this install (89 G50). Where does the white part (marked with the arrow) go in the install? And which part number is it in the diagram on page 2.



Thanks

The white cup bushing sits down in a metal cup that is on the forward end of the linkage rod going to the shift linkage coupler into the tranny. The ball joint of the shifter sits down in the white bushing. I believe moly grease is recommended if I remember correctly.

[megerian]

Yup, smear it with white lithium grease and push down really hard to pop it on.

[PDACPA]

In the middle of the project and I see where everything goes except I have two "O" rings a big and small one. Item #4 is one o-ring that appears to be part of the replacement part but I do not see where the other one goes. #11 is an o ring in the diagram, but I did not remove that part and it would require 2 .

[PDACPA]

I figured out where it goes and the smaller of the two "O" rings turned out to be the most difficult part of the process. Damn it's stiff now.

[PDACPA]

Question? With the new bushing, should it be real stiff? I can shift it, but I would bet my wife might have an issue. It is very stiff. I realize it is the metal shaft through the plastic bushing, but it is stiff. Does it eventually wear in a bit and get smoother?

[megerian]

Mine was not really stiff after my install. Did you put some grease on the ball before popping the cup bushing onto it?

[PDACPA]

Yes I put some grease on the ball and some inside the plastic part with the notch so help ease the rod back through it.

I can shift it, but it is tight. I realize I was use to the sloppyness, but do not remember it being this tight.

[sacoffee]

I know I am resurrecting am old thread but is it recommended to replace the rear coupler (under back well) as well?

[megerian]

Hmm, I don't think that is a part that is prone to failure. Just to be clear, which numbered part from the diagram on page 1 are you referring to?

[jk911]

Does the shifter coupling need to be disconnected to do this job?


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[tirwin]

I think the ball cup bushing can be replaced without disconnecting the coupler if I remember correctly. I'm not sure about the big shift rod linkage bushing. Seems like I had to disconnect it to get more wiggle room.

[megerian]

No need to disconnect the shifter coupling, but be prepared to really work to get the shifter assembly back in, once you have replaced the bushing

[Westfield]

I did this job recently using this thread. The one thing I did that made the job very easy was to loop a large zip tie through the shift rod (where the bolt goes) and used it as a handle. This allowed me to maneuver the rod up and to the side to get it back through the bushing on reassembly. You then cut it out after the rod is in so you can get it the rest of the way through.
Also, my bushing was 0.2mm smaller than the rod. This made the shifting almost unbearable. I took the whole thing back apart and reamed it with with a tiny dremel wire wheel to be 0.1mm larger than the rod. It now clicks itself into gear. The moral is to measure before you put it all back together.

[jk911]

I guess my only concern with disconnecting it is changing the original alignment of the shifting, or is this not an issue with the G50?

[jk911]

O.K. I disconnected the shift coupler at the back, I replaced both ball socket & number 12 shift bushing no problem. Now I'm stuck! I can't get the shift rod back far enough to be able it insert it back in. I tried the cable tie trick which will help to control it but there is no room to push the rod past the rear coupler which seems to be necessary to clear the shifter housing of the gearstick. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated !!

[megerian]

1- have a helper pull rearwards on the shift rod thru the access panel to give a couple of extra millimeters of clearance
2 - make sure the black bushing (#12) is positioned with the opening notch pointed down
3- angle the housing at 45 degrees as you work it down into the tunnel
4 - have a rope looped under the front portion of the rod to pull upward into the opening
5 - if all the above fail (as in my case) soak the black bushing (#12) in hot water for a few seconds to soften it up
6 - keep trying, you'll get it

[jk911]

Thanks for that. I'm feeling more positive about it now. I will give it a go as you say. I was also thinking about cutting that cable tie around the wires on the side I the access hole and force it down the side and push it right back (as in the photo)