G50 Clutch Bleed Update...

[Rick Lee]

Last night Green 912 helped me bleed my clutch. Hell, I actually helped him bleed my clutch. Result - it feels like a new clutch! A lot of hideous, bubble-laden fluid came out of there. In fact, it feels so good now, I'm starting to think it's not the original clutch - car has 80k miles and few records. I'll flush everything again at a tech session in 2 wks., just to get ALL the old stuff out once and for all. Maybe my master cylinder is going, but at least now I have a good reference point. Anyone who gets a squishy clutch pedal, I recommend this very easy job before concluding you need a new clutch. What a difference! Thanks Green 912!

[KTL]

Good news Rich. Once you've seen how it's done and how easy it is to do, you'll add it to your regular maintenance. Just like changing the oil. Piece of cake when you've got the right tools and a little spare time. You can never have too many tools..........

[JDaniel]

Interesting. My clutch is currently BLEEDING me!

[kepperly]

just what tools are required?
87 slant nose "g50" carrera
keith

[KTL]

Tools for clutch bleed:

1. Motive Products Pressure Bleeder. Something like $40 from Pelican and pretty much worth every penny. Nice product.

2. Clamp/vise grips to pinch off overflow line on brake/clutch fluid reservoir. Have to do this or you can't pressurize system with pressure bleeder.

3. 7mm wrench to open bleed valve on slave cylinder atop transaxle.

4. Jack and jack stands to get rear of car in the air so you can fit underneath.

5. Length of tubing and catch pan for bleeding off valve on trans.

That's it I believe.

[sigpe57]

Originally Posted by KTL

Good news Rich. Once you've seen how it's done and how easy it is to do, you'll add it to your regular maintenance. Just like changing the oil. Piece of cake when you've got the right tools and a little spare time. You can never have too many tools..........

What's your correct way to do it? Any Link?

Thanks,

TT

[Flat6pac]

TT I use a cut 7mm boxend and a breathing oxygen hose from the bottle to the mask (Available at drug stores) for good connectors so I can see what is coming and how dirty it is.
Remember the level in the resevoir because the clutch slave feeds from near the top of the resevoir.
Bruce

[McLaren-TAG]

Forgive the ignorance but is this ONLY on the G50 transmission cars?

[KTL]

Well sometimes it can be a real pain to bleed the slave when its mounted up there on top of the trans. Two 13mm nuts to loosen and you can lower down from the trans and see what you're doing a bit better.

You just have to be sure you don't over-pressurize the pressure bleeder (10-15 psi is PLENTY) and DO NOT press the brake pedal when the slave is removed from on top of the trans. You'll blow the slave pushrod right out the end of the slave body.

Yep this is the bleeding/flushing process for the G50 hydraulic clutch actuation. 915 owners need not worry!

[wildcat077]

Kevin 's got it right,there's also the proper gymnastics involved,once you figure out the proper way to position yourself it makes the job a whole lot easier ... lol

Cheers !
Phil

[ejp]

Originally Posted by KTL

Tools for clutch bleed:

1. Motive Products Pressure Bleeder. Something like $40 from Pelican and pretty much worth every penny. Nice product.

2. Clamp/vise grips to pinch off overflow line on brake/clutch fluid reservoir. Have to do this or you can't pressurize system with pressure bleeder.

3. 7mm wrench to open bleed valve on slave cylinder atop transaxle.

4. Jack and jack stands to get rear of car in the air so you can fit underneath.

5. Length of tubing and catch pan for bleeding off valve on trans.

That's it I believe.

6. A mirror on a stick

7. A flashlight

8. Really long arms to give that transaxle a giant hug with while you fumble for the bleeder nipple and the nut

Also...Rhino Ramps work for this too, if you have a few and don't want to bother with jack stands.

[burgermeister]

Originally Posted by KTL

Tools for clutch bleed:

2. Clamp/vise grips to pinch off overflow line on brake/clutch fluid reservoir. Have to do this or you can't pressurize system with pressure bleeder.

Correction: You can (try to) pressurize the system just fine. But all of your brake fluid will come out the overflow hose ... I wonder how I know this?

[KTL]

Yeah, since this was originally posted i've been advised that removing the slave from atop the trans is the way to go. Agreed 100%

Yep Frank i've BTDT on the forgot-to-clamp-off-the-vent-hose routine. I'll see your bonehead move and raise you one. I had my main pressure hose (the one that connects the bleeder to the cap for the master cyl reservoir) split open on me. Holy carp what a mess. Brake fluid all over the trunk area, which then dripped down inside the car. Spent hours "rinsing" the affected areas with glass cleaner. What a nightmare.......

[bcheney]

Remember the level in the resevoir because the clutch slave feeds from near the top of the resevoir.
Bruce

So does the resevoir need to always be above the max line during the bleeding process because of this?...I have been tying to bleed mine with fluid just below the max line and I cant get any hydraulic pressure to build. I have pinched off the overflow line at the side of the resevoir...All I get is air and very little fluid after pumping up the motive bleeder to 15lbs and then opening the bleed valve. The slave is brand new and this process is kicking my ass...I am sure it's something stupid like this...let me know guys!

[burgermeister]

If you have the rear of the car jacked up for access, it is possible to get the rear end of the slave higher than the bleeder screw port, and it isn't going to bleed that way no matter how much brake fluid you push through. Bleeder screw port has to be the highest point.

I've not had luck removing the slave - more specifically, I've not had luck reattaching it once it's been removed. I use a shorty 7mm wrench, which is a cheapo "Pittsburgh" box end that's been cut down so it's about 1.5" long. I use a regular 7mm to crack it loose, slip the shorty on and then some hose, and the shorty has (barely) enough rotational travel to get the job done.

What I'd really like to do is somehow cobble a short section of brake line in the bleeder screw port and relocate the bleeder screw someplace more convenient. Someday ...

[ganun]

I would say not remove the slave, if you think the puny 7mm is difficult try threading the two 13 mm nuts while compressing the slave. BTDT.
I just did a preventive bleed of the clutch this weekend with the Mighty Vac, it was BLACK! , took about 700 ml to get clear fluid out, and I had replaced both master and slave 2-3 years ago. Clutch even feels better.
Definitely a 2 year cycle item together with the brakes.

[bcheney]

Ok I made the car level so that the bleeder nipple was the high point and followed the clutch slave bleed steps from the factory manual...It went something like this...

1. Clamp off overflow hose on top right of resevoir. Fill brake fluid resevoir with fluid
2. Attach pressure bleeder to the resevoir and pressurize to 15lbs
3. Slip short box end 7 mm wrench around bleeder screww. Attach bleeder hose and catch bottle to clutch slave cylinder
4. Open bleeder screw on clutch slave cylinder and allow system to bleed until no air bubbles escape
5. With air bleed screw open slowly depress clutch pedal fully several times
6. With pedal fully depressed close the bleeder screw
7 Remove pressure bleeder and top off brake fluid.
8. Release clamp from overflow hose

It came out great on the first try! By the way....I did NOT fill the Motive Pressure Bleeder with fluid. I didn't want to run the risk of an accidental fluid hose leak all over the trunk.

[north_van]

Originally Posted by bcheney

1. Clamp off overflow hose on top right of resevoir. Fill brake fluid resevoir with fluid
2. Attach pressure bleeder to the resevoir and pressurize to 15lbs
3. Slip short box end 7 mm wrench around bleeder screww. Attach bleeder hose and catch bottle to clutch slave cylinder
4. Open bleeder screw on clutch slave cylinder and allow system to bleed until no air bubbles escape
5. With air bleed screw open slowly depress clutch pedal fully several times
6. With pedal fully depressed close the bleeder screw
7 Remove pressure bleeder and top off brake fluid.
8. Release clamp from overflow hose

This was really helpful, I appreciate those easy to follow steps. I can't believe how responsive my clutch is now!

I would just add between steps 6 & 7, to pull the pedal back up so it is fully disengaged, after you close the bleeder screw, and before you remove the pressure bleeder. I'm not sure if I am alone here, but for step 5 I had to use my hand to push and pull the clutch pedal, because it didn't come back up by itself while I was bleeding the slave cylinder.

[azhodge]

anyone that says bleeding the clutch slave cylinder on a G50 is easy, is a bloody lying idiot. or a fool....

[KTL]

north_van is correct that the clutch pedal will not return on its own when you're bleeding the system.
It'll fall to the floor when you push on it and you have to pull it back up.

Bleeding the clutch is a sucky job for sure. But it's a heck of a lot easier when you remove the slave from atop the transmission. Sounds like more trouble than it's worth, but it's worth it in my opinion. Because trying to get at the super tiny bleed nipple way up high, by feel since you can't see it, is a complete pain in the ass