DIY Re-upholstery Front Sport Seats kit 85-89

[SilberUrS6]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

About 4-5 hours, I wanted to take it slow and triple check everything to be sure it won't be a Sharpe Style install, like one of our other brothers

Wow, that's not too bad. That means, for your second seat, it'll be about 2 - 2.5 hours. Which is really a nice Saturday afternoon.

Nice work, and thanks for the pictures.

[Roby466]

that's some great work! Thanks for the write-up.

[gsxrken]

Great documentation. You're one of the guys that make PP worth my time.
And years later that brake light relay switch is still clicking away under my bonnet. Thanks!

[DRACO A5OG]

My pleasure , now my whole family wants me to do their seats, can you say Pandora's Box

[rnln]

:lol:

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

My pleasure , now my whole family wants me to do their seats, can you say Pandora's Box

[totle]

excellent write-up :-)

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by totle

excellent write-up :-)

Thanks and break a leg on your re-upholstry

[Enso]

Great post Draco

could you tell me where to buy these seat covers from?

Best
Glenn

[DRACO A5OG]

PM sent

[cnielsen]

Same for me, if you wouldn't mind sharing the source.

[DRACO A5OG]

Sport Seats 85-89 AutoBerry.com | Convertible Tops | Seat Covers | Headliners, ask for Dave ( USA )

for all others seatsshop01@gmail.com ( Canada )

You should verify with pics that they can do your seats.

[J1NX3D]

Those seats look great! Just wondering, is there a way to repair or replace cracked seat piping?

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by J1NX3D

Those seats look great! Just wondering, is there a way to repair or replace cracked seat piping?

Thanks, it was fun and seats still look great.

Yes, you can but it will require you two remove the skins and take it to a upholsterer or if you have a very talented Moms or Girl fried to stich it for you.

You can do it by hand but it will take for almost ever.

[Jferr006]

Perfect timing! I was just complaining about being too cheap to pay someone to do this.Thank you!

[DRACO A5OG]

It was very rewarding but now I am looking at everyone's seat. I guess I am being a bit annoying, "hey they didn't do this and that right" :-P

You would think if they are going to charge 400-600 just for labor, they can at least do it right, dang it.

[MrBonus]

Very impressive work. That looks like a tedious job. The end product looks fantastic.

[DRACO A5OG]

Well, I only had one good hand due to a fun run injury. ;-) definitely worth it

[A horse with no name]

Hi DRACO...Would you mind expanding on the procedure to remove the side handle...Are you prying up with the screwdriver? - Or?...Thanks!

By the way, thanks for the great photos, including your detailed step by step of 'how to' on this project _ Good stuff!

Cheers!

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

I placed extra hog rings to firm up the seats, the new leather shoud do the same but over time it will sag IMHO. Mine will never sag again.


Ready for steam to puff it back up

They will swell another 3-5MM's, in areas that compressed. Remove bad batting and replace. Funny the tops had a wool like batting, very nice stuff. I had synthetic but did a better job of coverage, just glue on the bolsters, not the insert area, if you select perforated, you want the seat to breathe, glue it will not.

Top dismantle:



Passenger side had OEm batting to conceal hog rings and metal deviations, my driver side did not have it, freakin POS installer short cutted there, I just used batting, perfect no bumps





You MUST stick screw drive inside the channel to remove the handle, if you pull from the outside you will break it, ask me how I know.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by miglenda

Hi DRACO...Would you mind expanding on the procedure to remove the side handle...Are you prying up with the screwdriver? - Or?...Thanks!

By the way, thanks for the great photos, including your detailed step by step of 'how to' on this project _ Good stuff!

Cheers!

Sure thing, what you need to do is stick the screw driver at the based of the handle that the metal arm goes into. The handle is "T" shaped, you want leverage at the bottom of the T with the screwdriver's edge then pry up. DO NOT pull or pry on the outside no matter what you do the inner clips are strong then you might think, but with the screw driver at the base it will give and pop right off.

Think about removing the OEM shift knob, you dont pull on top you place leverage at the base the pop it off .

I hope this is clear enough. If you can peer into the cavity you will see the base that needs to be caught for leverage.

Jim

[A horse with no name]

Thanks Jim.... I bought a couple of them last year as the colour of mine had faded a bit but I eventually gave up....Your explanation is as clear as a bell!

Cheers!