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Question Door Window Moulding - Missing Items?

I've done an exhaustive search for the parts/solution to seal/waterproof my window frame properly from outside water.

I have all of the rubber trim and the plastic pieces on the front and rear of the inside of the frame, these:


I think when i removed the frames years ago to have them powder coated, there was some sort of malleable putty [black] there?? I never put it back... To be exact, I'm looking for what goes in the two areas I have circled on the outside of the door/frame:


Any help on this would be greatly appreciated! Shannon

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Old 10-20-2013, 12:47 PM
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Butyl rope. Butyl tape. Dum-Dum. See link for more info. Check you local glass shop or grab some online. On my car there was a strip of the rope along the bottom outside of the quarter glass. I stuck some in the channel of the bottom of the belt molding where you have your circles and also at the very front. The little dab at the front cut down on wind noise.

The rope is also good for sticking the plastic membrane to the inside of your door panel. Stretch it out until you have a thin bead and run it around the perimeter of the door and stick the membrane down. -J

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/774305-window-putty.html
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:11 PM
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Thanks! Will pick some up tomorrow. shannon
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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.
Old 10-20-2013, 02:41 PM
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I have got some 3M strip calk. I don't think you need much. Let me know is you need help, and I can mail some to you.
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:33 PM
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OK, so i just received the 3m Strip-Tape or "Dum-Dum" tape.

Q: once I apply to the red circled areas above, how do i get the sticky-ness off of the surface? any suggestions?

Thanks!
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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.

Last edited by mooney265; 11-04-2013 at 11:27 AM..
Old 11-04-2013, 10:53 AM
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A bit of WD40 should remove the stickiness.

BTW, keep in mind that the inside of the door should be considered part of the outside of the car. The vapour barrier inside the door is the dividing line between what can get wet and what should not get wet.

Expect the inside of the outer door skin to get wet. That is why it is so important to keep the door drains clear and clean. It is not the water that gets in that is the problem, it is the water that can't get out that caused damage.
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Old 11-04-2013, 11:26 AM
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wayner,

thanks for the response. i do realize the inside of the door get's wet, however i still have the gaping gaps in my molding [all new] in the red circled areas. so, i'd like to make an effort to close those up.

yes, my drains are in perfect shape and unclogged. my concern is the rs door panels and specifically the red cloth "pull handle". It seems water has a tendency to drip down the left red circle above and right onto the red strap. then, the entire cloth strap becomes wet.

I figure if i can plug up the LS red circle, then that would mitigate the "wetness" on that strap - - as it is positioned directly below that area... Thanks!

Ok, will try some WD-40 - - Good idea!!
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Old 11-04-2013, 11:31 AM
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Is the water finding its way down the inside of the door card to the red strap, or is it making its way there a different way?

When I put my door together I made and installed a new vapour barrier. In the places where screws penetrate the vapour barrier I added a bit of caulking there as well so that when the screw or bolt penetrated the vapour barrier, it self sealed the back side of the barrier to the door frame.

It may not have been exactly as the factory did it, but the factory's cars rusted. I'm hoping mine won't. So far I've been in a couple pretty good downpours and my interior stayed dry even though my new door windows seal on my 73 is exactly as you described. (On the left side of my picture by the window frame you can see the trim gap in my picture that corresponds exactly with the right red circle in your picture).

P.S.
The caulking that I used is made specifically for vapour barriers. It is called an acoustic sealant and is available at most hardware stores for adding vapour barriers to homes....and yes, in the picture I used too much, but no matter, it is behind the new poly plastic sheet.

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Last edited by wayner; 11-04-2013 at 12:17 PM..
Old 11-04-2013, 12:08 PM
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The problem is the "strap" originates on the inside of the vapor barrier... Just saying...
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:10 PM
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Here's a pic of what my panel looks like:
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:11 PM
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I made a flap so that the barrier is behind the strap.
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73 RSR replica (soon for sale)
SOLD - 928 5 speed with phone dials and Pasha seats
SOLD - 914 wide body hot rod
My 73RSR build http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/893954-saving-73-crusher-again.html
Old 11-04-2013, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayner View Post
I made a flap so that the barrier is behind the strap.
That's an idea. Will look at re-doing my plastic barriers and add a "flap." thanks!

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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.
Old 11-04-2013, 12:25 PM
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