Front Wheel Bearing Replacement Question

[rywats]

I have a clicking sound in my front passenger side wheel bearing. My callipers aren't sticking and I've installed new rotors and pads. My question is, for those experienced what all parts are needed to do the complete job.

I've got the following in my cart:

Wheel bearing seal p/n: 477-405-641-M30
Front wheel spindle O Ring p/n: 999-701-084-50-M104
Wheel bearing SKF (Front right outer) p/n: 999-059-065-00-M92
Wheel bearing SKF (Front right inner) p/n: 999-059-098-00-M92

Anything else that I'll be needing for the job? Do I need a Spacer ring as well? Do the bearings come with new races? This will be my first time doing it, I have access to a press and all appropriate tools.

Thanks in advance

[James Brown]

bearings come with new races. press or heat on

[Techno Duck]

You really only need the o-ring if you are replacing the spacer ring on the spindle... 901-341-623-00. The spacer sometimes gets a groove in it from the seal riding on it. I did not need to replace it when i did the bearings on my car a few months back.

[jason2guy]

you have a press thats good. heat the hubs before installing the races- i heat them for removal as well.

[911oclock]

Of course some good bearing grease!

[rywats]

Thanks guys, I'll order both bearings and the wheel bearing seal.

[cmcfaul]

A clean BBQ or understanding wife allowing oven use makes heating the hub easy and the bearing will go in or out easily.

Chris

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

Of course, we have an article that may help you while you tackle this job. It has some good tips: Pelican Technical Article - Front Wheel Bearing Replacement. Good luck!

[JRSIII]

You'll need to remove the calipers to do this. You may want to have a new set of hard brake lines to the calipers, and possibly soft lines, on hand when you do this. The hard lines are easily damaged and if you gotta remove them, it's a logical time to replace the soft lines. Also check the rotor thickness as its a logical time to replace them if they are below spec. If you do, order new spring washers.

[Ayles]

Originally Posted by JRSIII

You'll need to remove the calipers to do this. You may want to have a new set of hard brake lines to the calipers, and possibly soft lines, on hand when you do this. The hard lines are easily damaged and if you gotta remove them, it's a logical time to replace the soft lines. Also check the rotor thickness as its a logical time to replace them if they are below spec. If you do, order new spring washers.

Definitely get new hard lines from the caliper... I wasted a TON of time trying to preserve them only finding out later that the are relatively inexpensive to replace. I think I got two of them for $24.

[rywats]

Originally Posted by JRSIII

You'll need to remove the calipers to do this. You may want to have a new set of hard brake lines to the calipers, and possibly soft lines, on hand when you do this. The hard lines are easily damaged and if you gotta remove them, it's a logical time to replace the soft lines. Also check the rotor thickness as its a logical time to replace them if they are below spec. If you do, order new spring washers.

Rotors and pads were done 3 days ago. Soft brake lines are in great shape, and the hard lines moved out of the way no problem without damage. Calipers didn't need to be unhooked from hard lines!

[rywats]

Originally Posted by Luccia at Pelican Parts

Of course, we have an article that may help you while you tackle this job. It has some good tips: Pelican Technical Article - Front Wheel Bearing Replacement. Good luck!

I did see that, and will be following it. Thanks!

[911tracker85]

some time ago I was hearing a noise and was sure it was from the front.

turns out it was my rear wheel bearing. get it up in the air and check out everything.

good luck.

[stormcrow]

A clicking sound may not mean a bad bearing. Usually a bearing going bad will have a rumbeling sound when you are going down the road. As stated above i would check the CV joints that's usually where the clicking sound comes from.

[rywats]

Thanks for your input. I'm certainly going to inspect the rear cv joints and bearings a little further before diving into the front hub. Sometimes noise location is deceiving...

On a side note, my front bearings don't have any rumbling. I did notice a bit of play in both fronts grabbing at 12 and 6 oclock and wiggling. Nothing grabbing at 3 and 9. No play in rear bearings at 12 and 6.

Thanks guys. The more input the better!

[Reiver]

Originally Posted by rywats

Thanks for your input. I'm certainly going to inspect the rear cv joints and bearings a little further before diving into the front hub. Sometimes noise location is deceiving...

On a side note, my front bearings don't have any rumbling. I did notice a bit of play in both fronts grabbing at 12 and 6 oclock and wiggling. Nothing grabbing at 3 and 9. No play in rear bearings at 12 and 6.

Thanks guys. The more input the better!

Did you try adjusting the pre load?

[rywats]

Originally Posted by Reiver

Did you try adjusting the pre load?

I have not, could you explain please.

Thanks!

[911 Rod]

You need to tighten the axle nut. Remove dust cap. Loosen allen bolt with the allen key in your tool kit. Leave the key in while you turn the wheel. There needs to be a little play as they will heat up and get tighter.
Track guys know to check this every time they prep the car.

[rywats]

No torn CV boots, no abnormal noise heard. I had it on jackstands and in gear and I couldn't hear any clicking from the the rear.

I'm stumped. I guess the only option now is to replace the wheel bearing that I THINK is the issue and go from there.

Thoughts?

[911 Rod]

If you don't know how old the front bearings are it's always nice to know where you stand. I've only had to change mine when I couldn't tighten them any more.

I doubt this is your problem.