*** UPDATE - I've sold both extra sets of these adapter plate to other Pelicanites and don't have anymore left ***

I have something you might be interested in. I had these made up when i went thru the process. I didn't really like the setup utilizing the weber v stacks.

I used these plates under the PMO rain hats. The longer ends didn't actually work when i put the decklid back on so i had to cut them shorter (like the one on the right). The portion of the tube that goes inside the rain hats provides a clamp surface for the velocity stacks. I used some 52mm stacks that I found on ebay that are similar in height to the weber stacks.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600106818.jpg

The four mounting holes are 10mm holes which if i could do it over again, would make them smaller. I had used Clay's drawing to provide the machine shop that cut the plates and didnt think it thru well. I end up using washers with the screws that go in thru the bottom and thread into the rainhat standoffs or whatever you want to call them.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600107232.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600107232.jpg

They weren't really cheap to have made but it was worth farming it out because my aluminum welding is pathetic! Let me know if you're interested. I have two pairs here - one with the short tubes and another pair with the longer tubes that you'd have to get creative with to use with factory decklid grill.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1606333461.jpg


Let's see how far we get, this topic was very inspiring. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat3.gif

Started collecting parts this week and removing my big-port 3.0 SC intake.

finally got my Triumph ITB kit installed, purchased from mr Clay O years ago. As advised by him it took some fiddling to get full return to idle and that was resolved by loosening everything including butterflies, work throttle and re-tighten.
Impressions after initial mapping and tweaking is engine runs smoother than before. Which I did not expect at all. I just purrs at cruise! Idle is stable and starts are easier than before. I did not yet connect my hand throttle but not certain I need one as engine starts easily and settles to idle after seconds. Driving it feels stronger at low to mid throttle positions and it has a glorious subtile sound. Driveability as good, or better than with stock intake I am very happy. Engine is 3 liter 9.5CR twin spark and stock cams. Only significant issue to sort out is crankcase ventilation. I have checked I get 100% opening of the butterflies but still I seem to not get even close to atmospheric at WOT after 4000 rpm which surprised me given the massive throttle area compared to single butterfy with CIS. Mapped it in MS2 using MAP only and dual tables. Tried first with 6 squirts but could not get rid of the low load pops and had to revert to 2 squirt. Seems to work well. After second day of mapping today I have accel enrichments off still, but as long as I don't abruptly floor it it works well as is.

As a conclusion the engine works as before maybe slightly better and I like it more now. No night and day transformation and no additional 20 hp as far as i can tell. And it looks cool too


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1623004809.jpg

Do you still have any manifold sets I just bought my fathers 911 and would really like to do the set up. I live right outside of Houston.

I just got my Clay Triumph and Al MS2 setup “install completed” today. Got it started pretty easily but bad sticking returning to closed throttle despite a double return spring. Running far too rich on the initial startup tune. I see @trond had to fix a sticky throttle also by loosening “everything”, working the butterflies and then tightening again. I’ll have to give that a try. (EDIT: I found the setup instructions Clay posted and will follow those).

I’m 10/32” too long on the passenger side linkage arm when the driver’s side is at 9” exactly. And that is when I put the passenger side link on the “forward” side of the attachment arm on the throttle body (contrary to Clay’s examples) and orient the triangle arm to allow the passenger link to be as short as possible. Don’t know how to solve this geometry problem.

Any words of wisdom on applying a universal factor to lean out the map?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1626556191.jpg

Not really sure of what you`d like to know but here is some info
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/975423-official-efi-ignition-map-sharing-thread.html

Chris,
I often break down the tuning into smaller, more manageable sections...like getting the no-load tuning done....starting with getting the idle right, then 0-2000rpms, then 2000-4000 rpms, etc. Once you get idle, revving in neutral working decently, then you can start tuning the load sections (driving).....0-2000rpms, 2000-4000 rpms...etc.

This allows you to focus on and tune smaller sections that eventually blend.....

Regarding changing the overall fueling....first, i would verify that 'Required Fuel" settings are correct for your engine, injectors, etc.

However, if you want to reduce the overall fuel, you can reduce the required fuel number or you can highlight (left click, drag) all of the VE cells and then right-click, ..... a menu will open that allows you to increase/decrease the VE table numbers of all of the highlighted cells.....so you can do this to individual cells, groups of cells or the entire table of cells.

regards,al

Thanks Al! I’ve been using your excellent manual that came with the kit to get me this far. Appreciate the extra tips. I’ve confirmed Required Fuel settings are per the manual screenshots. I’ll take a shot at the VE idle area edit next. BTW, I had to add the baseline resistance value to the coolant temp sensor setting to get the tune running. This was blank in the manual.

With the Clay linkage, I’m 10/32” too long on the passenger side linkage arm when the driver’s side is at 9” exactly. And that is when I put the passenger side link on the “forward” side of the attachment arm on the throttle body (contrary to Clay’s examples) and orient the triangle arm to allow the passenger link to be as short as possible. Don’t know how to solve this geometry problem.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1626609915.jpg

make more threads and shorten it to be equal length ? I made one new with links to make adjustments easier

Regarding return sticking - Make sure the pivot that is just in front of the crankcase vent is pretty loose. The plastic shim expands a lot as it heats up and causes things to be too tight for the return to be smooth.

also helped in my case to remove the nice thick floor mat that was preventing throttle pedal to return fully! Was not an issue before but the return springs on the ITBs are marginal. Works fine now

That whole pivot/bellcrank setup was too sloppy/sticky for my liking so I remade the whole thing. I also relocated it ~1" further towards the rear of the vehicle and raised it at least an inch to improve my throttle rod geometry.

It's worth noting, my kit came with the 'old style' manifolds that require the use of an adapter between the manifolds and ITBs. So my linkage geometry was just horrific.

Cast aluminum intake manifold Triumph ITB-> Porsche 911
 

Hello Clay.0, are you still selling the cast aluminum intake manifolds for the Triumph ITB.

Greetings Kai

I have a set of manifolds, ITBs and linkage for sale


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Current twin plug install. Hoping to fire it up for the first time in a few days. I don't think my linkages were different lengths. My only gripe about it is the eyelets are not reverse thread so in order to adjust the linkage you need to take off one end and screw them opposite ways. Normal linkage is set so you can spin the center bar clockwise/counter clockwise to shorten or lengthen the travel.

http://live.staticflickr.com/65535/5...2b8fccd0_c.jpg

http://live.staticflickr.com/65535/5...9f17aa4b_c.jpg

Hello Clay,
This is Rob I spoke to you a couple of years ago about some intake manifolds for the triumph itbs. This was about the time covid 19 hit us. I had lost your number and wasn’t able to make it to Houston back then. I’m here in Conroe and wanted to see if you still might have and parts available. You can reach me at 281-203-7423
Thanks
Rob

Hey Clay, new here. I very recently bought a car that has your itb kit in it with an aem infinity. This car actually never ran since this stuff was installed in the past 3-4 years. I don't really know much about aem software or really anything to do with ecu's. Im not sure exactly the problem i'm having on why the car won't fire. Is it possible you we could connect via dm's or even through text or something? more than willing to pay you very well for your time and expertise to get this fresh motor fired for the first time! my number is 603-630-1893, again, more than happy to pay for your time.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1692311044.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1692311044.jpg

AEM has a tech support line that is pretty helpful, might want to try giving them a call first (it’s also free :) )

Not sure if Clay.0 is still active here.Seems to have been a while.Id like to get hold of the linkage setup for my Triumph build over here in Blighty!